datzenmike Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 If this ran properly before with the other carb there is no reason to think this is ignition related and has everything to do with the Weber. I'm assuming it's just a carb change here. Again like wayno, never hurts to check other things. Plug 'reading' is a look inside the engine and the combustion process. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 From the initial posts, it sounds like the only thing that changed was the carb, intake and deletion of vacuum advance. If this is true (and really, nothing else was changed), the first thing you need to do is get a timing light on it and advance the timing to about 12 degrees at idle. This won't be a complete fix as the timing curve is all screwed up now that you're not running the vacuum advance. The internal components of the distributor need to be adjusted to allow the mechanical advance to do the job that the vacuum advance used to do. The second thing is the carb. Is it even functioning properly? If it's been sitting for a while, then it probably needs to be disassembled and cleaned at the very least. Maybe even needs some new parts. Third thing is carb jetting. Idle jets, main fuel jets and air jets, accelerator pump nozzles, venturis are all set to a specific engine's requirements, so even if the carb is in good shape, it may be that it came off a L20B with a cam and it will never run right. Until it's properly jetted and tuned. Also, check to make sure that the choke lever is in the proper position. If it's stuck open, all tuning is corrupted. This reply assumes that all other things are in good condition and that the install of the manifold and carb were done properly with no vacuum leaks, proper throttle linkage, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/racrobert152318/media/IMG_1939_zps2hx9nh4l.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/racrobert152318/media/IMG_1933_zpsxl7a5vft.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 idk if these pics are good enough Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Im trying to figure why is the coil near the exhaust, esp the wires? mount it on the fender. NO its Not COOL looking believe me. You never answered ,was this running fine before the carb swap? If was running fine before then its has to be the carb that carb looks new to me. If was not running before then you put on carb then ck the timming using a light. Now if you got this car from someone else and then strat adding stuff we need to know the history. we had a guy on here said his truck wasn't running then ask to send photos and they wasn't a head on the motor, really the dumb ass sent a ealy photo to confuse us and wonder why he was on here. But we don't want 12pages for a simple 30 min fix 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 The car was running with the carb it had before. before I bought the car it had a ford escort carb down draft. I rebuild the carb an carb so it ran before. Until now I bought the sidedraft carb and installed it. Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I am planning on getting a timing light so can check the timing Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 well its got to be the carb.if this motor was OK before only one thing I notice there is no insulator between the carb and manifold All my sidedraft carbs have a insulator. Your dont seem to have one unless its a gasket only set up. Maybe Stroffgren Motorsprt can chime in on this but I heard of not running a insulator but actually haven't seen one in person not running one Some have white insulators with O rings. (Mikuni kits from the late 80s) 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Insulator? Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 In between the manifold and carb is only a paper gasket Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Stoffregen said something about a choke lever Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I'm wondering how a down draft carb was on this intake. Surely the Weber side draft and the manifold were put on together? Coil should be away from vibration. Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 The downdraft was on the original manifold. I got the weber with the manifold and just recently installed it Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 The coil on the engine is a possible cause? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 if it was running fine before this is has to be this carb set up. I see no insulator between the carb and manifold. Most kits have this. But I seen a sidedraft set on the internet , and the guy said it was fine. Im just wondering if its causing a leak incase the metel to meta is not perfect or manifold is not perfect match. put the coil away from the block!!!!!!!!!!!! Im not a DCOE expert but I see the choke lever. pull the lever fwd toward the rad. this will put the choke I the OFF mode. when pulled like when you have a cable in there pulling it will pull the ;ever back and close the whatever to enrichen the circuit. when cmotor is warm you push the cable in. and it will open thus give you more air . YOu can run a cable or not. My 510 I don't run a cable . It starts fine w/o a choke. I just pump the gas a few times and it works great. in your photo the lever looks like it pulled back as the choke is ON. Once motor is running it will make a choked off sucking sound. then when no cjoke it clears up and sounds smoother. OK were up to 3 pages you better get this Cause Im out of awnsers Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Not to try and hijack the thread, but do you just leave the vacuum advance on the dizzy open to the atmosphere or did you cap it? I've got an electronic dizzy on my l20b and will be throwing a single sidedraft 45 on it on my days off. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I don't think it matters but I capped mine just incase.... I guess moisture could get in over time.... personally no reason not to cap it... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Im not a DCOE expert but I see the choke lever. pull the lever fwd toward the rad. this will put the choke I the OFF mode. when pulled like when you have a cable in there pulling it will pull the ;ever back and close the whatever to enrichen the circuit. when cmotor is warm you push the cable in. and it will open thus give you more air . YOu can run a cable or not. My 510 I don't run a cable . It starts fine w/o a choke. I just pump the gas a few times and it works great. in your photo the lever looks like it pulled back as the choke is ON. Once motor is running it will make a choked off sucking sound. then when no cjoke it clears up and sounds smoother. Ummm I think you have that sort of backwards... half of what you say just doesn't sound right to me... it might be the way you worded it.... I thought The spring returns the choke towards the firewall... that should be off, no choke, cable in on dash.. cable pulled out at the dash would pull the lever towards the radiator choking the carb? Yes? No? .... Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 That's kinda what I thinking but I wasn't sure. Better safe than sorry Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 The coil on the engine is a possible cause? Coils should be protected form vibration and heat. All the factory ones are mounted on the inner fender. Doubt this is it, just something that needs to be addressed. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Golde-boy, it may be hard to keep up with all the replies, but when you do, try to address each person's relevant suggestion or observation. There are many people here on Ratsun with a good base of knowledge and some of them are here trying to help you. So when they ask a question, it's probably for a reason. You don't have to reply to each in a separate post, just list them as they come all in one reply. One more thing I noticed, does the carb have a gasket sealing it to the manifold? I can't see one. As Hainz suggested, you may eventually want to use a soft mount between the carb and manifold. Some people call them isolators. Some are o-ring type, others are hard metal flanges vulcanized with rubber in between. Either way, they help isolate the carb float bowl from vibration and heat. But yeah, back to the gasket. Is there one between the carb and manifold? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Crashtd. Im not a DCOE expert. Matter of fact never touched one. I just know when I pull a choke from inside the drivers seat, it Pulls the cable towards the firewall.. Simple to figure this out , try it one way then try it another and see if it fixes the Loading down part. my weber manual DGV and Mikunis don't have a spring and needs to push back in to open the choke. Only reason the manula DGV the choke opens up is the air vol will push the butterfly open depending on cable tightness. as for the vaccum advance I just pull the hose, I don't don't plug it. and advance the distributor a bit more when running s sidedraft 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Stofferegen- there is a gasket between the manifold and carb. It's a paper material gasket 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 The DCOE choke is spring loaded, but that doesn't mean it's not gunked up and stuck in the on position. Wouldn't hurt to try and operate it to see if it runs better one way or the other. Doubt this is a problem though. If it does run better with it engaged, then you know you're lean. Quote Link to comment
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