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#41 wayno

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 06:35 PM

I am not sure what you have going on, the caps that go on the ends have threads on the outside and the inside, this allows the middle piece to stay loose and not corrode if greased properly, that you are able to squeeze the the arms together at all is baffling to me, the coarser threads on the outside of the cap should stop the cap when it bottoms out rather than letting the inner threads determine when to stop turning, that inner piece is supposed to be loose when the outer caps are tight.


 

 


#42 sondat

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 06:44 PM

I’m clear on the threads inside and out of the caps and that during suspension travel the fulcrum pin moves side to side (minimal) within the caps. I wish I knew how the control arm ears ended up bending in but they have.

#43 Crashtd420

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 06:50 PM

There are only 2 solutions I can think of so far. 1) Source a complete lower A arm with its original pin and caps. 2) Spread LCA ears back to original position and weld a steel bar between the two ears to maintain there position with torquing of caps. I think the bar could be positioned not to interfere with suspension travel or dog bone install so it can be installed permanently. Any thoughts?


I'd try your second thought... but I don't think need to add the bar...
I remember those caps being a pain to deal with... they have to engage both threads just right....
It almost sounds like one side got miss threaded...

#44 mklotz70

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 07:00 PM

We did talk about them earlier on but was more about the simplicity of making them. You probably didn’t have any on hand at the time.

I've actually had them sitting here for several years. I've shown several people the thread on here that shows other guys making their own and they've decided to do that rather than buy mine....which is perfectly cool.  I just ran across my baggie of NOS cotter bolts....bought them years ago and was told they were all but the last few.  I was going to buy them out, but decided to leave a few for someone else......I think Hainz actually bought some some a short time later and was told they were the very last ones. 


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#45 mklotz70

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 07:11 PM

I don't remember if they're single start threads or double....probably single.  I'd try to bend the ears back out to parallel.  It's almost like your inner threads are a half turn or so too tight and they're pulling the ears in before the nut bottom out in the ears.   You might try tightening one nut in and torque it......then thread the pin in.  You should be able to play with the rotation of the pin in relation to the remaining nut.....get the outside threads to just start before the inside ones do......Hhhhmmmm.......I wonder if you could run the pin all the way into the first torqued nut.....then install/torque the second nut......then turn the pin back to center.  I'd try it with the dogbone off first to find the right combo.  With the dogbone in place, you should be able to slid it to one side and then be able to grab the pin with needle nose pliers....maybe???.....to be able to turn it.  You'll definitely want to make sure that your fulcrum pins spins nicely in the dogbone before you try this.

 

As for spacers....maybe some "U" washers.....like body fender or front end alignment fenders.....only bigger.  Or maybe cut some slots in metal that's thick enough to fit snuggly in the gaps.  Realistically....you could have the dogbone to one side and just use one extra thick washer.

 

Thanks for the reminder on why I don't enjoy turning a wrench anymore!!!! LOL!! :)


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#46 sondat

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 07:20 PM

Thanks for the advise. I will play around with the suggestions probably Monday and will let you know how it goes.

#47 sondat

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 11:41 AM

Well, mystery solved but problem not fixed. Used hydraulic press with duck bill attachment which opened LCA up back to normal. Attempted your suggestion Mike of torquing 1 bushing cap first and assemble fulcrum pin from there. That’s when I realized why I was short to bushing caps originally, the outer threads as well as threads in control arm are stripped out. They are there enough to thread cap in but once torquing starts it is spinning in control arm but would keep getting pulled in from the fulcrum pin threads. This is what bent the ears in. So time to source drivers LCA with pin and caps. Getting frustrated, should just weld them on, lol. I’ve stumble across 2 620’s that I’m able to get parts from, those control arms the same?

#48 wayno

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 03:12 PM

Depends on the year of the 620, early stuff is the same, later stuff had ball joints instead of king pins, and no you cannot bolt on the ball joint front end, it takes some fabrication to do that, I know this because I did all of it and had ball joints/disc brakes for around 12 years before I upgraded over the last couple months.

 

As you said, you could just put it together, then once happy with how it functioned you could spot weld the caps to the arm in two spots on each side to keep them in place, but the spot welds should be in an accessible place where they could be ground off to replace them in the future.

 

Do you ever drive down I5 to Portland OR or farther south?


 

 


#49 sondat

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 03:31 PM

Was wondering what others might think when I mentioned the welding option. Might just go that route. It’s been years since I’ve been down south but was just googling Seattle international raceway last night. Would like to take in a top fuel event. Was aware of the fabricating to go to ball joints, will stick with king pins for now sine we have purchased all new bushings, king pins and seals to go original.

#50 wayno

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 05:08 PM

You  do what you have to to keep them on the road sometimes, I don't always do what is right to keep my truck running and on the road, I do what is necessary, and then when shit starts to add up and I have too many keep it on the road fixes I take a step back and choose to do it right ASAP.

I just went thru a couple weeks spread out over a month or so getting my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck back to safe daily driver status, the steering is tight now, tighter than it has been for a very long time(years), I suspect that will be the last major conversion I will ever do to that truck as it has everything now.

 

I don't consider spot welding them caps in place dangerous, as they do not move when installed, but I would make sure the caps are in good condition on the inside and not worn out, as it will be harder to get them off once spot welded into position, and I am talking about spot welding, not running a bead.


 

 


#51 sondat

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 06:28 PM

I Hear you Wayno on keeping these trucks on the road, I don’t see the spot welding being an issue either and yes I will confirm the inside threads are good.

#52 mklotz70

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 06:38 PM

Luckily, I actually read this forum post notification.  I get a bunch and rarely have time to read them fully.  

 

YES....I completely agree with Wayne on the tack welding suggestion.  Good, stout tacks, but not beads.  The threads of the pin will hold it in, so the tacks mainly just need to keep it from spinning.  

 

Personally....I think I'd lightly grease everything.....make sure that the holes in your pins are completely clean and clear so that you can get grease in after assembly.  Get it all assembled and then do you tacks......then grease it good.  Should be fine.  You're only doing tack welds, so things should not get hot enough to worry about.  When doing the tack....use an air hose to cool it back down right after each tack.....or keep a damp rag handy to quench it......just don't quench it while the tack is red hot.

 

Worse case, you don't have a mig welder to tack it with in house....you can take the dogbone and LCA assembled and disconnected at the sun bolt....to a place or buddy that can do the tacks for you.


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#53 sondat

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 07:09 PM

Thought I was done with the mig but it’s no problem bringing it home from work for one more weekend. Like this idea better than trying to source another arm not knowing if it’s in good shape or not. Mike, I did dis assemble the passenger side and tried torquing the caps into the arm without fulcrum pin to prove those threads and they are all good. It’s been an educational day. Put passenger side back together and got spindle on, ready for that shiny aluminum calliper bracket. Thanks Wayno and Mike for the help/advise.

#54 mklotz70

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 07:31 PM

I think I just about have everything out of the way so I can start on the brackets.  The guy in Japan as been waiting the first of Feb....he's getting anxious too. lol  I should be able to start on getting the mill setup tomorrow.....we'll see.....only 5hr of sleep today, so I'm dragging.....hopefully, I'll get a second wind by the time I get off work in the morning.


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#55 sondat

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Posted 13 May 2018 - 08:24 AM

When we did our rust repair on the box, had to replace metal that receives round metal gas filler tube. We need to re drill three holes for screws to attache filler tube. Need to know which way the filler tube is clocked cause there is a vent tube along side the filler tube. Truck just left yesterday for paint, will post pic’s when it returns.