Jump to content


Photo

new member, first post.


  • Please log in to reply
53 replies to this topic

#21 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 24 December 2017 - 09:28 AM

We purchased the L20B, had the block bored 20 over, decked and crank turned 10 under. The head which was previously re built was checked over and given the thumbs up.

 

38556415184_bf3595c1dc_n.jpg

 

38556413054_f95f7b977a_n.jpg

 

We plastigauged the main and rod journals as well as checked gaps on the new rings. They could have been an issue, had to file gap to spec.

 

38556413624_58eca2d808_n.jpg          38556410154_de26ed13ee_n.jpg                  25397281688_80f0731642_n.jpg

 

 

As for the truck body my son and I completed the metal work (still have to do the box}. Hired an expert to do the final body work which keeps the sanding mess out of our garage.

 

38556417674_abdbd31ac9_n.jpg   38556412194_c1b43ac3be_n.jpg   25397282648_64e13d773b_n.jpg   

 

 

As for the chassis, the differential is in with lowering blocks. Assembled the rear brakes and pressed in the new LCA inner bushings.

 

 

 38556408354_c409a2340c_n.jpg   38556406274_aaf6f7d413_n.jpg

 

 

As for the rear breaks can anyone comment on the placement of the bottom smallest spring holding tension on the shoes? Not sure if it's hooked in the right spot. the reference material we have doesn't show it clearly.

 

38556417004_d8dfe19b0a_n.jpg

 

 

 

 



#22 rinigado

rinigado

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 114 posts
  • Location:LA

Posted 24 December 2017 - 09:53 AM

As for the rear breaks can anyone comment on the placement of the bottom smallest spring holding tension on the shoes? Not sure if it's hooked in the right spot. the reference material we have doesn't show it clearly.

 

 

I want to say there's a hole on the rear plate of the brake where the short end of that little return spring (one end of the spring has a hook that's longer, one end is shorter). I didn't stretch that spring between holes on the 2 shoes. I'll see if I have a picture.



#23 mrbigtanker

mrbigtanker

    Hall Monitor

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,000 posts
  • Location:Eastvale,Ca
  • Cars:Trailblazer ss/72 521/71 goon/454 SS/2016 canyon

Posted 24 December 2017 - 12:00 PM

It looks to be correct.



#24 DanielC

DanielC

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,721 posts
  • Location:West Linn,Or

Posted 24 December 2017 - 12:23 PM

The small black spring hooks to the backing plate, and one shoe.

#25 mklotz70

mklotz70

    Beelzebub

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,650 posts
  • Location:Gresham, OR
  • Cars:'64 Fairlane wgn, '14 Kia Forte EX, '70 521(wife's), '72 521(mine)

Posted 24 December 2017 - 04:41 PM

Daniel just beat me to it.

These are the fronts, but the spring should mount the same on the rears.

 

http://community.rat...es/#entry686298

 

Hopefully, you can view photobucket pics on ratsun.


Don't have to be too bright to be me!! :D
Sadly, I prove this nearly everyday!!! :(
www.bluehandsinc.com
youtube.com/bluehandsvideo

#26 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 24 December 2017 - 05:41 PM

Thanks everyone for the help on break springs. Will post pics soon on the cab, doors, fenders and hood. Body man has color on everything but the exterior.

#27 Stoffregen Motorsports

Stoffregen Motorsports

    Datsun Mechanic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,117 posts
  • Location:Cool, CA
  • Cars:http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/viewall.html

Posted 25 December 2017 - 09:26 AM

Take that front dipstick tube out and plug the hole with a small brass plug. It will clean up the appearance.

 

Looks great otherwise.



#28 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 21 February 2018 - 08:54 PM

Here's the front clip back home with colour on all inner surfaces and undercoating.

     

 

        40413108301_d8e86ac57f.jpg

 

        26542184818_547a194ff9.jpg



#29 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 21 February 2018 - 09:03 PM

Body man now has box after my son and I completed rust repair and built rear valance to give the back end a cleaner look around the factory tail lights.

 

             26542185638_788cc9d512.jpg

 

             40413109351_56d30f2e7f.jpg

 

             26542186648_9dc8d8daf3.jpg

 

              40413107791_6871ae8f63.jpg

 

              26542184188_176edd8df4.jpg



#30 mrbigtanker

mrbigtanker

    Hall Monitor

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,000 posts
  • Location:Eastvale,Ca
  • Cars:Trailblazer ss/72 521/71 goon/454 SS/2016 canyon

Posted 22 February 2018 - 07:45 PM

Love the build. Looking real good. Rear valance not a fan of but still great restore.

#31 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 04 March 2018 - 07:08 PM

Have bottom end of engine assembled and cam came back from Shadbolt cams with a mild  performance grind (M445). Waiting on the delivery of new rocker arms to complete head build/install.

 

 

                                               40413107011_1969bea566_n.jpg

 

                                               26542183448_7b3727a774_n.jpg

 

So on to the front suspension. Thanks to this forum I learned of the importance keeping the LCA fulcrum pins and caps in order to be re installed in original position. Problem is I learned of it after we tore the front end apart  :crying:. Also lost 2 caps or maybe thrown out due to crapy threads (can't remember). Managed to get a used replacement pin with both caps courtesy of Mr Koltz (thanks Mike). Now starts the infinite combinations of pins and caps on 2 different LCA's to see which combo has the least resistance in control arm travel. With upper and lower control arms attached to frame and dog bone pinned top and bottom thought of using a large fish scale to measure resistance with each combination. scale only goes to 25lbs which wasn't enough. Thought of using torque wrench on lower fulcrum cap to see exactly how much torque required to start movement of control arms.

 

                                               40583128612_efa620702b_n.jpg

 

 

                                               40583130042_e125b9c511_n.jpg

 

For replacement of the LCA fulcrum pin rubber dust covers we ordered the seals for a MGB which worked great. they fit over the original metal washer from the old seals.

 

                                               40583131062_b7c272ac31_n.jpg

 

                                               40624992111_f38fe8f806_n.jpg

 

Also had to make the replacement cotter pin/bolts for the LCA fulcrum pins.

 

                                                40583132622_8211322348_n.jpg

 

                                                40624994751_d01637cd30_n.jpg

 

 

                                                40583131652_e129c58a2e_n.jpg



#32 Doctor510

Doctor510

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 718 posts
  • Location:Mesa, AZ
  • Cars:Many 510's

Posted 04 March 2018 - 07:25 PM

Nice work guys!  What are the specs on your cam?



#33 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 05 March 2018 - 07:16 AM

Cam specs are duration @.05 L, intake and exh 224deg. 280deg advertised .340L, 510” gross on 110deg LSA.

#34 datzenmike

datzenmike

    KING RAT

  • User Administrator
  • 71,697 posts
  • Location:Vancouver Island
  • Cars:'74 710 sedan, '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510 new '76 B-210

Posted 05 March 2018 - 07:34 AM

Datsun L cams are 248 duration but I've always thought it was actual degrees and not taken @ 0.050" lift. Always wondered what it really is at 0.050"

 

Stock lift is 0.413"


Posted Image

#35 Stoffregen Motorsports

Stoffregen Motorsports

    Datsun Mechanic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,117 posts
  • Location:Cool, CA
  • Cars:http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/viewall.html

Posted 05 March 2018 - 09:43 AM

Your work looks fantastic and I like the attention to detail.

 

One suggestion - you could make that fulcrum pin with full threads by grinding only the section that actually contacts the shaft. Install it before the shaft and pull it up tight. I would also use a smear of anti seize on them. Otherwise, everything looks really nice.



#36 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 05 March 2018 - 09:09 PM

I have herd good things about Shadbolt cams and went with there recommendation on what we wanted for a performance upgrade. Stated to them the truck will be a daily driver, will be my sons first truck. They said the M445 grind would benefit at the 3000rpm range. Thanks Stoffregen Motorsports, I will try the cotter bolt suggestion and bought some anti seize today.

#37 mklotz70

mklotz70

    Beelzebub

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,650 posts
  • Location:Gresham, OR
  • Cars:'64 Fairlane wgn, '14 Kia Forte EX, '70 521(wife's), '72 521(mine)

Posted 06 March 2018 - 01:37 AM

Did we talk about cotter bolts when I sent you the fulcrum pin?  I still have some of the ones I made....they're nearly identical to the factory ones.  Kind of surprised it didn't come up.


Don't have to be too bright to be me!! :D
Sadly, I prove this nearly everyday!!! :(
www.bluehandsinc.com
youtube.com/bluehandsvideo

#38 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 06 March 2018 - 06:50 AM

We did talk about them earlier on but was more about the simplicity of making them. You probably didn’t have any on hand at the time.

#39 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 09 March 2018 - 06:15 PM

Passenger side control arms and dog bone are in and little restriction in the movement, so that side is a win. However, the driver side is another story. After trying multiple combinations of fulcrum pins and caps noticed the threaded ears on the end of the LCA that recieves fulcrum pin caps have slightly bent inwards (towards each other). I have only been torquing fulcrum bushing caps to the minimum of 145ft lbs (range being 145 to 217). This when torqued causes a lot of binding due to the caps not being square to the fulcrum pin and also the end of the caps contact the dog bone. Has anyone else experienced this? I know when i started the process the ears were not bent in due to the ends of the fulcrum pin were flush with the outside ends of the LCA but know as you can see they protrude beyond the LCA ears. You can probably also see the slight angle (inward bend of the LCA ears) compared to the fulcrum pin.

 

                                                                 40718014851_d595c6f743.jpg

 

                                                                 26846831548_7cf4923a4d.jpg

 

                                                                 40718015961_31136ccda7.jpg



#40 sondat

sondat

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Location:British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars:521

Posted 09 March 2018 - 06:24 PM

There are only 2 solutions I can think of so far. 1) Source a complete lower A arm with its original pin and caps. 2) Spread LCA ears back to original position and weld a steel bar between the two ears to maintain there position with torquing of caps. I think the bar could be positioned not to interfere with suspension travel or dog bone install so it can be installed permanently. Any thoughts?