Idle Issues.

[la_leo]

I have a weird issue. All the last month I've been running my truck. It would crank, run at a high Rpm for a little bit, then the idle would drop. I would then tap the gas and it would idle great. Now the battery isn't holding a charge overnight for some reason. With my battery charger on I can crank it fine, but now when the idle drops down after it warms up a little it dies. It will NOT idle. I can keep my foot on the gas pedal and keep it running, but as soon as I let off it dies. I tell you what else I noticed, before this happened I could hear something clicking in the carb when I turned the key ON. I'm assuming it's the electric choke. Well now I don't hear that clicking anymore. Is it possible the choke is stuck open? Could that be draining my battery somehow? If my battery has a low charge, will that keep it from idling?

[kelowg]

Fuel cut off solnoid. Either no power to it or shorted out

[datzenmike]

 or replace the second fuse over from the left (15 amp) this is what powers the idle cut solenoid and the auto choke heater. See if that changes anything.

 

The engine will run on a poorly charged battery.

[la_leo]

Thanks guys. There's also. A single green wire underneath the driver's seat. It's in the harness that goes to the ECM. No clue what it's for. Any idea?

[datzenmike]

Ahh you have the ECC electronically controlled carburetor. The plug in the back of the carb is known to have had too short of wires. After 20-30 years of flexing the wires inside sometimes break causing all kinds of issues.

 

With the ignition on, move the connector and wires and see if the idle cut solenoid begins clicking

[la_leo]

Ok thanks. What is that green wire for? I didn't see anywhere to plug it in.

[la_leo]

Eureka. All my electrical problems were down to one plug in at the battery. The intermittent fuel pump, the rough idle, the no idle lol. Can I cut the plug of and tie in all the wires going to it and connect them directly to the battery? ???

[datzenmike]

This is the trouble with asking the same question on more than one post.... Post #19 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/71271-no-elecrical-power/

 

The mystery green wire is just likely something not used on your truck. Maybe the seat belt switch.... look up

[la_leo]

What I'm asking is about the black connector that clips onto the battery. There are 5 wires on it that tie into the plug. A green and red, a black, and another green and red. If I move them around with the key on you can hear the idle solenoid clicking on and off. The connection is bad here. The fuel pump will also not come on unless you wiggle the connection just right. So what I'm thinking is removing the plastic connector at the battery aND splicing them into a universal connector. I'm not bi passing the fusible links, just the t connector

[Lockleaf]

No you cannot. From the black connector to the white connectors a few inches down is not normal wire. It is fusible link wire, which is your fuse for those circuits. If you look at newer Nissans there are big fuses right on the battery terminal. Those wires are the old school version of those newer fuses.

 

You can remove them and rewire to a fuse block but you must use "slow burn" type fuses such as maxi fuses or jcas. You cannot successfully use "fast burn" fuses like the blade fuses in the cab of your truck.

 

I converted an 82 720 harness over to a fuse block in my 510 Wagon build "half pint" if you want to see more.

[la_leo]

[datzenmike]

The reason they are the way they are is so you can unplug them individually to replace them. If not planning to replace them ever, you could bundle them together and crimp on a connector. Avoid shortening them.

 

Fusible links will handle much higher currents than they are rated for by hearing up slowly before melting. If the rating is held for 5 seconds it will blow. This is an advantage if the 'short' is brief like a wrench touching something. A regular fuse blows almost instantly.

[la_leo]

The reason they are the way they are is so you can unplug them individually to replace them. If not planning to replace them ever, you could bundle them together and crimp on a connector. Avoid shortening them.

 

Fusible links will handle much higher currents than they are rated for by hearing up slowly before melting. If the rating is held for 5 seconds it will blow. This is an advantage if the 'short' is brief like a wrench touching something. A regular fuse blows almost instantly.

that's what I was asking. The black connector is almost broken and is not making good contact.

[datzenmike]

The fusible links plug into the Black connector which in turn clamps to the battery post.

[la_leo]

Right. So I don't see a reason I couldn't cut the black plug at the base and crimp on a new connector using the same fusible link wires

[wayno]

Find another one that has not gotten so hot and deformed the connector.

You want them fusible links, and as far as I know you cannot cut the plug off, strip the wires, and use a but connector on all of them.

[Lockleaf]

If not bypassing fusible links just use whatever battery connector and manner of connecting the fusible links your want.

 

Edit. I wouldn't splice them directly together. I would leave them grouped as they are and connect them to wiring lugs that will bolt to the terminal

[wayno]

You should pull the plug out of the harness, and very carefully using needle nose pliers and close each female connector so it makes good contact with the male ends it plugs onto, obviously that plug has been removed, replaced, wiggled so many times it has distorted the plug connections, you need to tighten them up again, or replace the part completely.

 

I just looked at one of my connectors, I don't think needle nose pliers are going to work, but I can tell you this, the wire inside them wires is not normal wire, it is a fuse type wire.

[la_leo]

Inside of the black plug is just a brass contact. The other end just hooks to the battery. I can't see any difference splicing the wires using a generic connector

[la_leo]

You should pull the plug out of the harness, and very carefully using needle nose pliers and close each female connector so it makes good contact with the male ends it plugs onto, obviously that plug has been removed, replaced, wiggled so many times it has distorted the plug connections, you need to tighten them up again, or replace the part completely.

tried that. The brass parts are broken aND split. Can't salvage that

[la_leo]

If not bypassing fusible links just use whatever battery connector and manner of connecting the fusible links your want.

that was my thinking

[Lockleaf]

Let me get you a pic of how my truck is currently setup. Ive been using the current setup for 4 years now with no issues.

[datzenmike]

wayno I think the wire inside is just good quality copper. The secret is the Hypalon plastic insulating cover on the outside. Hypalon is very flame retardant and allows the wire to melt and break the circuit. The Hypalon will melt and get ,but it doesn't catch fire like a normal plastic insulation.

[weldingrod]

Chop 'em all off, install round connector to each one then attach to battery clamp bolt.

[la_leo]

Chop 'em all off, install round connector to each one then attach to battery clamp bolt.

that's exactly what I did. Easy fix.