Mike8199 Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Fill plug is stuck, any ideas to break her loose? I dont wanna break it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Heat, pb blaster and impacting. It took serious effort on my part to brake mine free. I rounded the corners off it trying. What finally broke it loose was when I welded corners back on to it for my wrench to grab. That heat did it. Even with that, i was under my truck, holding on to it and pushing the wrench with my leg. When it gave, i shot that wrench about 30 feet down my driveway. A hammer wacking on the end of the wrench would probably have worked better. And put some anti sieze on it when you put it back in. 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Leverage and impact. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Some bungs have an external square shape.... I used a pipe wrench that grips harder as you pull on it. That, and 3 feet of pipe over the handle for leverage. Others are an indented square and take a 1/2" drive ratchet or Johnson bar... with 3" of pipe over the end of the handle for leverage. Just anti seize compound when you put it back on. Differential bungs are indented also and will swap. 2 Quote Link to comment
Mike8199 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 So anti seize, not like teflon tape ? 1 Quote Link to comment
Roadster-ka Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Nissan supplied dealers with a 6 inch steel bar that had the square hole in one end and a half inch drive hole in the other for just such a occasion. You put the bar on the fill plug and a breaker bar on the other end. Never saw it fail. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Pipe wrench (BIG one) and HEAT! 2 Quote Link to comment
toylet Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Remove reverse light switch and fill 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 If full of oil it will transfer the heat away. I guess you could have the bung on the high side. Aluminum expands twice as much as steel. Heating the case makes the hole larger. The bung is a tapered pipe thread. By design, as you tighten it in, the threads form a solid plug with the case, like a cork. Liquid cannot get by this style of thread if properly tightened. 18-25 ft lbs. Steel and aluminum tend to become very hard to snap loose when bolted together. My first job over 50 years ago I found that bolts that I had tightened wrist tight, much later required both hands and the Allen wrench would twist from the torque on it. Always there was a big SNAP and then it would spin out with fingers. wtf? It's just a property of the two dissimilar metals and there is probably a term for this. 3 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Its called galvanic corrosion 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 ... and now I remember it. Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment
Mike8199 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 Tried heat, pipe wrench, and it still is stuck. Thinkin of welding a socket onto the plug. Quote Link to comment
Mike8199 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 Reverse light switcg is also kinda stuck.... any thoughts on removing that? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 29, 2017 Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 Just in case.... lefty loosey.... righty tighty. The reverse lamp does not need to come out other than to replace it. LEAN on it! If under the car, dig a hole for clearance so you can use a pipe extension on your ratchet. Drive the car so it straddles a ditch and climb under. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rickie B Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 I had the same problem,this is what i did.I bought a set of Irving bolt removers from Amazon,they are used for removing rounder off bolts.Put the truck up on jack stands so i could have some room under the truck,i have a 24 inch breaker bar,with the irving socket and breaker bar i used my floor jack on the end of the breaker bar,with the pressure of the floor jack it broke loose.i actually saw this on you tube where a guy could not remove his oil drain plug because it was rounded and way to tight :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 "Just in case....lefty loosey....righty tightly." If you are left handed, this goes through your head constantly when wrenching. 1 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I used a judicious application of heat, then climbed under with a 1/2 long breaker bar and socket and proceeded to do rapid, jerky pull ups on the end of that bar until it gave up and loosened. 1 Quote Link to comment
2LittleTime Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Beg, borrow or buy a quality long open end wrench. 3lb hand sledge. Give it some sharp raps with the hammer in the loose direction then a few in the tight direction. Repeat. Be patient and you will be rewarded. You don't need to hit it like you are driving a railroad spike. Just nice solid in line impacts on the wrench. (Jack stands, safety glasses and gloves) 1 Quote Link to comment
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