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83 720 manual trans fill plug wont break loose


Mike8199

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Heat, pb blaster and impacting. It took serious effort on my part to brake mine free. I rounded the corners off it trying. What finally broke it loose was when I welded corners back on to it for my wrench to grab. That heat did it. Even with that, i was under my truck, holding on to it and pushing the wrench with my leg. When it gave, i shot that wrench about 30 feet down my driveway.

 

A hammer wacking on the end of the wrench would probably have worked better.

 

And put some anti sieze on it when you put it back in.

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Some bungs have an external square shape.... I used a pipe wrench that grips harder as you pull on it. That, and 3 feet of pipe over the handle for leverage. Others are an indented square and take a 1/2" drive ratchet or Johnson bar... with 3" of pipe over the end of the handle for leverage.

 

Just anti seize compound when you put it back on.

 

Differential bungs are indented also and will swap.

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If full of oil it will transfer the heat away. I guess you could have the bung on the high side.

 

Aluminum expands twice as much as steel. Heating the case makes the hole larger.

 

The bung is a tapered pipe thread. By design, as you tighten it in, the threads form a solid plug with the case, like a cork. Liquid cannot get by this style of thread if properly tightened. 18-25 ft lbs. Steel and aluminum tend to become very hard to snap loose when bolted together. My first job over 50 years ago I found that bolts that I had tightened wrist tight, much later required both hands and the Allen wrench would twist from the torque on it. Always there was a big SNAP and then it would spin out with fingers. wtf? It's just a property of the two dissimilar metals and there is probably a term for this.

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Just in case.... lefty loosey.... righty tighty.

 

The reverse lamp does not need to come out other than to replace it. LEAN on it!

 

If under the car, dig a hole for clearance so you can use a pipe extension on your ratchet. Drive the car so it straddles a ditch and climb under.

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  • 1 month later...

I had the same problem,this is what i did.I bought a set of Irving bolt removers from Amazon,they are used for removing rounder off bolts.Put the truck up on jack stands so i could have some room under the truck,i have a 24 inch breaker bar,with the irving socket and breaker bar i used my floor jack on the end of the breaker bar,with the pressure of the floor jack it broke loose.i actually saw this on you tube where a guy could not remove his oil drain plug because it was rounded and way to tight  :thumbup:

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I used a judicious application of heat, then climbed under with a 1/2 long breaker bar and socket and proceeded to do rapid, jerky pull ups on the end of that bar until it gave up and loosened.

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  • 2 months later...

Beg, borrow or buy a quality long open end wrench. 3lb hand sledge. Give it some sharp raps with the hammer in the loose direction then a few in the tight direction. Repeat. Be patient and you will be rewarded. You don't need to hit it like you are driving a railroad spike. Just nice solid in line impacts on the wrench. (Jack stands, safety glasses and gloves)

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