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521 one torsion bolt shorter than the other?


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#21 d.p

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 03:43 PM

Yeah I was going to do that but was able to get it lined up with my brother's help.  He just massaged the driver leaf into place which worked just fine, if that didn't work next step was to loosen the passenger side.  I do have the 3" angled blocks so once I am said and done with the fronts I will check whether I need a shim.  Tried to do the fronts but didn't have the right tools (again) so will revisit those soon.  

 

Not my best pics, but you get the idea.  Almost looks like the passenger front is higher than the drivers side. 

 

Ground to fender after (didnt measure before)

Rear:  26"

Front: 27 1/2"

 

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#22 datzenmike

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:11 PM

Front needs lower for sure. They look 'faster' if there is a slight rake. Just enough to notice.


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#23 wayno

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:39 PM

The low profile tires are not helping with the gap between the tire and the fenders, I went with low profile also, but I am really low.

DSCN3449.JPG


 

 


#24 d.p

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:54 PM

Yeah I know. Will lower the front and see how it sits. Not trying to have a terrible ride so I can deal with some gap.

#25 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 07:22 AM

angle down towards the front on the blocks

 

when you reindex the bar the correct way then you can adjust the bolt again to get what you want as you might be to low then readjust it up.

 

move A arm up 1 notch. Mark it with a ink pin where you started


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#26 d.p

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 07:32 AM

Understood, going to tackle the fronts this week.   is there a c-clip on 521s? 



#27 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 08:22 AM

Me and Icehouse on here took it off from the front on his 521. But kinda forgot how to do it  We didnt use the c clip method.

 

Wanyno would know more


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#28 Crashtd420

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 10:19 AM

Understood, going to tackle the fronts this week. is there a c-clip on 521s?

There is on the end with the adjuster ... if you remove the torsion bar from the a arm you don't need to worry about the clip... just remove the adjuster bolt and pull the whole bar out... as others have said mark where things are now to help know where things were once you start pulling the bars out...

#29 Crashtd420

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 10:27 AM

Screenshot_20170123-132127_zpsdyggy834_e
The clip just holds what they call the anchor... remove the c clip and you can remove the anchor from the torsion bar... I guess it depends which end wants to free up easier... on mine the anchors were really rusted on so removing from the a arm was the easier way...

#30 d.p

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 05:51 PM

62 is the adjuster bolt in that picture? I take that out and then slide the torsion bar back towards the rear?

#31 thisismatt

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 07:49 PM

Yessir.  It has an acorn-ish looking head allowing the torsion arm to articulate about the head a bit


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#32 d.p

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:15 AM

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#33 wayno

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 12:26 PM

I would take the one with the fewest threads up top showing out first, re-index it, then take the other one out and put it in at the very same exact angle as the other one, then put the bolts in and tighten them up so they just clear the frame, set it down and see if you got the result you wanted, if it is low enough, then lift it back up and put the lock nuts on.


 

 


#34 d.p

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 01:12 PM

Do I have to jack up the control arm/wheel after/while I re-index it?  Or can I just remove the adjuster bolt, re-index the torsion bar and then reinstall the adjuster bolt?  The video how to has the guy jacking up the wheel while re-indexing it. 

 

And you are saying to re-index the driver side (less thread) then match the passenger side torsion bar to the drivers side?  



#35 Crashtd420

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 01:56 PM

When I did mine I just jacked the vehicle up in the front to take the tension off, let the wheels hang.. removed both torsion bars.. with the jack I could raise and lower the truck to see what i liked.. remember once reinstalled it will lower till tension is on the bars. May have to set a bit higher than your intending so it will be where you want under full weight... i reinstalled both and evened out the anchors to match. Once i was happy where the ride height was i adjusted the tension as the repair manual says.. the archor bolts will fine tune the height left to right.. There's probably a few ways to do it. If your on a lift or frames on jack stands you would have to jack up the a arm.. Once you start pulling it apart you'll understand more. it all depends how low your trying to go up front..

#36 d.p

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Posted 25 January 2017 - 11:01 AM

All done boys, thanks for all your help and pointers.  In the end it was straight forward and I got it spot on the first try.

 

Front FTG: 25 1/4"

Rear FTG: 26"

 

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#37 Crashtd420

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Posted 25 January 2017 - 11:18 AM

Looks good
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#38 datzenmike

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Posted 26 January 2017 - 06:41 AM

And a slight rake to the front. Not bad at all.


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#39 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 26 January 2017 - 06:56 AM

i think you should put the steel stock wheels back and take another photo for us

 

most time when the chevy ralley are on one has to lower 4in or more to get it to look right. that when things go bad. angles .trans noise ect ......


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#40 d.p

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Posted 26 January 2017 - 07:06 AM

I will put the stock one and take a pic soon. Just a PITA taking 23 (lost one) lug nuts off and putting them back on while trying not to mar the chevys.   Agreed but mine isn't lowered that much, 3" blocks in the rear and down 2" in the front (1 spline) so I should be ok.