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521 one torsion bolt shorter than the other?


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#1 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 12:54 PM

Couple things trying to lower it via torsion bolts and 3" blocks.  I couldn't break the rear u-bolts loose to save my life (no breaker bar or torch) so I gave up on it.  Will try again with the right tools.  When I looked at lowering the front the driver side bolt was way shorter than the passenger side bolt.  Looks like the driver side broke at some point. Not sure what to do with the fronts, anyone know?

 

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#2 datzenmike

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 01:21 PM

It just means they were each lowered a different amount. Generally you would lower them evenly and measure each side of the frame to ensure the front is even height side to side. Probably if you adjusted them even, there would be no difference.

 

Looks like the torsion bars are already lowered. If you want to go lower you will run out of adjustment so... Type "Indexing Torsion Bars" into our search engine and read....

 

http://www.bleachgar...20tech_spn.html


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#3 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:19 PM

This look lowered to you?

 

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#4 Lockleaf

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:25 PM

your torsion bars might be badly indexed already

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#5 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:31 PM

Like indexed in the wrong direction (up)?  This is what it looked like when I got it ..which seemed 'stock' to me.  

 

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#6 Lockleaf

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:50 PM

Nevermind i don't know if that doesn't make sense...

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#7 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:02 PM

Nevermind i don't know if that doesn't make sense...

 

Yeah doesn't make sense to me either. 



#8 thisismatt

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:20 PM

The torsion bars are splined.  If one end is off a tooth, then the adjuster bolts would have to be at different heights to account for that.


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#9 datzenmike

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:20 PM

your torsion bars might be badly indexed already

 

Makes perfect sense. Bars, for what ever reason, were turned the other direction.

 

 

 

The upshot is... doesn't matter what you have, it's where you are going and how to get there. Mark the spline, loosen the bars, move to the rear slightly to disengage the front spline, turn one tooth and put back in. One tooth will probably bring you back to stock settings. You may want to try two teeth to get lower again.

 

To lower, turn driver's side counter clockwise as viewed from the rear and turn passenger's side clockwise as seen from the rear.

 


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#10 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:27 PM

Alright, guess I will try to reindex the fucker.  Could it be missing a tooth hence the different lengths? Clockwise on the driver and counter clockwise on the passenger side?   



#11 datzenmike

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:40 PM

It's all relative. Turn the torsion bar so that the rear arms with the adjusting bolt and nuts, swings upward toward the underside of the truck.


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#12 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:48 PM

It's all relative. Turn the torsion bar so that the rear arms with the adjusting bolt and nuts, swings upward toward the underside of the truck.

 

Simple enough, thanks mike.  



#13 datzenmike

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:49 PM

Keep in mind that any altering of the ride height will alter the steering toe in. Lowering below or raising above the stock ride position will add toe in. The truck will grind away the tires but worse, it becomes more unstable to steer. I found on sharp in town turns  that half way into the turn the truck would begin to pull to that side all by itself. If one wheel hits a puddle and looses traction the other one becomes dominant and you very suddenly end up in the other lane or the road shoulder. Don't let this happen.  


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#14 wayno

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:57 PM

It's not missing a tooth, there could be 20 teeth, I don't remember anymore.

In the past a former owner could have re-indexed them already, and got one side a tooth or two off, so that could be the issue, a former owner also could have weighed a lot and they adjusted one of the torsion bars so that it would be level when the driver was in it.


 

 

 


#15 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:57 PM

Keep in mind that any altering of the ride height will alter the steering toe in. Lowering below or raising above the stock ride position will add toe in. The truck will grind away the tires but worse, it becomes more unstable to steer. I found on sharp in town turns  that half way into the turn the truck would begin to pull to that side all by itself. If one wheel hits a puddle and looses traction the other one becomes dominant and you very suddenly end up in the other lane or the road shoulder. Don't let this happen.  

 

Understood.  One more question after watching that video..I pull the torsion bar back, jack up the axel to the desired height, then turn the torsion bar up (1 or 2 notches) and slide it back in?  



#16 d.p

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:59 PM

It's not missing a tooth, there could be 20 teeth, I don't remember anymore.

In the past a former owner could have re-indexed them already, and got one side a tooth or two off, so that could be the issue, a former owner also could have weighed a lot and they adjusted one of the torsion bars so that it would be level when the driver was in it.

 

 

Lol who knows whats up with it.  I assumed that the torsion bolts needed to be equal otherwise the front of the truck would be lopsided which it isn't.



#17 datzenmike

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 05:06 PM

Understood.  One more question after watching that video..I pull the torsion bar back, jack up the axel to the desired height, then turn the torsion bar up (1 or 2 notches) and slide it back in?  Two questions, is there a c clip on a 521? 

 

I guess, or try one tooth and see what you get. Add as needed.


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#18 d.p

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 11:48 AM

Which direction do the rear angle blocks go in? Angle up towards the front of the truck or towards the back? Have the taller towards the back but can't seem to get a solid fit between the block and the leaf spring.

#19 d.p

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 12:55 PM

Got them installed.

#20 datzenmike

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 01:46 PM

In my case after 2" blocks were installed I notices a bass rumble vibration. I measured the angle at the transmission and at the differential U joints and added a 1/8"shim at the rear. This would tilt the differential downward at the driveshaft and as luck would have it, perfectly matched these two angles.... vibration is completely gone.

 

 

Don't read a lot into this picture below. The two angles just have to be the same to cancel induced vibration. Make sure you measure the angles with the vehicle sitting on it's wheels. Optionally you could fill the gas tank and have someone in the driver's seat.336028d1327182643-lq4-into-3rd-gen-1972-

A 1/8" shim about 3" from the axle will move the nose of the differential, which is probably close to a foot from the center of the axle, about 4 times or 1 inch.

 

If you have angled blocks, and because this is a guess on the part of the manufacturer, you should do the actual measuring yourself and see how close it really is.

 

 

Got the pass side on. It know the driver side won't line up with the axle. Looks like the axle rolled forward a little and I can't get it to roll back to line up. Anyone know how to fix this?

 

Got the pass side on. It know the driver side won't line up with the axle. Looks like the axle rolled forward a little and I can't get it to roll back to line up. Anyone know how to fix this?

 

 

Loosen the passenger side U bolts completely. You may have the axle slightly cocked when the U bolts were tightened and now are forcing against them. With the pass side loose the drivers side will be easier to move. Tighten both sides together.


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