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My island turquoise 521


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#121 rinigado

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 07:03 AM

I got a dorman from RockAuto a week or so ago and it came with the spring holder.   $20 and nothing to worry about. 

 

And seeing how wet your slave area is with oil makes me feel better about how much less wet mine is.  Any idea where yours is leaking?

 

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dunno yet where all the oil is coming from. still need to get under there and clean things up and try to find the mouth of the mighty river. We're supposed to get a massive rain storm here today and into tomorrow; once that's done I'll hopefully spend some time under the truck seeing what's what. It's wet across a wide area, from up around the ahem, fram, oil filter to the oil pressure switch all the way back to my slave cylinder. So, maybe a couple of places are a problem. 



#122 rinigado

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 07:35 PM

got some time this afternoon to start on exhaust. I was going to order from Columbia River Mandrel Bends, but found a place down here on socal called Performance Tube Bending in Irwindale that has a good stock of mandrel bends at good prices, so drove over there on Friday and picked up a handful of bends. 

 

There have been a few LOUD backfires. Better tune this truck up to cut down on backfires I guess!

 

IMG_0519_zpsgula7xsa.jpg

 

one stud joining exhaust manifold to exhaust collector was replaced with something that had a nut on both sides. As soon as I got the threads loose, the bolt/stud shifted sideways. Turns out someone in the past drilled a hole and a half. The metal off to one side of the hold is fairly thin now.

 

IMG_0524_zps672xxxvj.jpg

 

There's enough material there to still hold a bolt, but not ideal.

 

The stud on the bottom/middle of the flange started out well enough, but tightend up after a few turns, and got that soft feeling halfway through a turn. So, one drilled out hole that's a mess, and one broken stud still stuck in the end of the manifold. Ugh.

 

IMG_0535_zpsp5hkelxt.jpg

 

The third stud also felt pretty tight after removing the nut about halfway and after the other two, I might just be paranoid, but the stud didn't look straight to me when under the truck. I soaked the shit out of these with pb blaster, but didn't use heat. I also doused all the other manifold bolds in pb blaster before wrapping up, in case I'm pulling the manifold off tomorrow.

 

So, 2 things that aren't good on the current exhaust manifold. Would it be better to drill out the stud, drill oversize and use bolts? Get that ragged hold welded and re-tap holes? shop for another manifold?



#123 rinigado

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:55 PM

so, got some time today to get back at the truck. I pulled the exhaust manifold off and also found that a bracket that mounts from the back of the AC compressor over to the block, which was fastened via one of the manifold bolts, looks to have broken off the nut and some length of the stud it was fastened to. Probably from vibration over years of use. There's a lot of weight hanging off the side of the head, with the smog pump attached to the ac compressor, attached to various points including this manifold stud. I'm thinking of removing smog parts (pump, hoses, etc) to lighten/clean things up and simplify the space around the engine.

 

bracket holding ac compressor goes over to the motor like this:

IMG_0605_zps9tvekytc.jpg

 

and this stud is a bit shorter than it should be:

IMG_0607_zpshysiwjzh.jpg

 

 

Looking in the parts manual, there are 3 separate part numbers for manifold studs for drawing 1C, all for m8x1.25 studs (manifold yoke, manifold and manifold slinger parts). Is there any difference to be aware of between these part numbers?

 

Also, the intake was held on by bolts on my head, where the parts manual shows studs in drawing 1C. If I'm getting some replacement stud(s), seems like it'd be simple to just replace the bolts with fresh studs at that time. Is it possible bolts were originally used there, or someone replaced studs at some point?



#124 rinigado

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 05:15 PM

It's been a while since I got time to work on the 521, but finally getting back to it. Last time I looked, the exhaust had given up the ghost, so I figured before I pull the motor to redo gaskets and seals, I'd sort out exhaust issues. I gave up looking for a stock manifold (I know..rust/lasts forever/quiet/awesomer) and drove over to top end performance to pick up a shorty header. Simple! 
 
5ZgNyUV.jpg
 
except for the torsion rods. crap!
 
LOUF1mA.jpg
 
Not wanting to give up on my 200 dollar investment, I printed a handful of snap-together plastic tube sections (2" diameter, 3" CLR) and mocked up what I'd need to get around the torsion bars. I also had to cut a bit off the collector section
 
aTWVNxN.jpg
 
mostly it ended up being 3 sections of 67 degree bends pieced together (with one extra inch of straight tube thrown in to drop the bottom flange a bit lower for clearance) 
 
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cuts were done in a little band saw, with a cutting guide copied from icengineworks design
 
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tacked together, it looked like this 
 
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it fits, and I can even snake it down into place without disconnecting anything else
 
Tl1o4CX.jpg
 
next up, I made a down (more horizontal than down) pipe with a flex joint, and a fancy v-band clamp to connect up to the header
 
9mdIfAL.jpg


 
here it is in place under the truck
 
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I should have bought two v band clamps, but didn't really think that through, so had to make up a pair of 2 bolt flanges to hook up to the rest of the exhaust tube. I worked backwards from whatever gasket would fit 2" exhaust and was available at my nearby laps

hOnNyZc.jpg
 
used a couple chunks of scrap 1/2" steel (could have gone thinner, but that's what was around)
 
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2" hole getting made
 
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and then a couple of bolt holes 
 
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sanded and ready to use
 
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like this
 
cBgYL5N.jpg
 
one side I left the tube a little shy inside the flange, and on the other mating piece I let the tube protrude a bit. Easier to hold it in place until I get a bolt through this way.
 
bolted up: 
 
6dKqW3o.jpg


 
this piece runs across the truck and back to the muffler
 
d145h3O.jpg
 
needed some hangers, so made up some parts to use a set of Jegs hi temp snap grommets
 
m3kJ7Cq.jpg
 
with grommet connecting to a little bent bracket through the original exhaust hanger points on the frame
 
jcxJBMu.jpg00tfd01.jpg
 
and back by the tailpipe
 
kZGP3XF.jpg
 
last section of pipe up and over the axle
 
Us1ccf5.jpg
 
need to hit most of it with some hi temp paint, but otherwise, it's done
 
v602Ctk.jpg



#125 racerx

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 05:30 PM

Nice job!

#126 gene knight

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 07:56 PM

nice work



#127 Charlie69

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 08:33 PM

I would where a mask when dealing with that hood fabric, could be asbestos, but I don't know that for sure.

That carpeted dash is likely hiding something you will like even less than the carpet, leave it there till you find a 520 dash top or have a plan, research it before removing carpet.

Most likely the brake adjusters can be taken apart and cleaned, then put back together and function fine, the end without the adjuster is the small end, use a screw driver to remove it, then fill the hole with some PB blaster and let it sit for a while, then put the adjuster in a vise, and using a punch tap the other side out thru the hole, I believe I have only ruined one ever trying to get it out, then soak the adjuster itself and unscrew it out of the sleeve you just knocked out of the adjuster housing, also 720 brake adjusters are the same.

This thing looks like shit, but I got it apart.

DSCN6346_zps2s32wyfl.jpg

 

DSCN6351_zps8ittgk45.jpg

 

DSCN6352_zpsrm2ufien.jpg

 

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Sometimes it takes a while to get them apart, they kinda get seized, but I just stick them in the vice sideways, stick a punch in the hole and start hitting it with a hammer.

Here they are on ebay.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...0-/172052208944



#128 mrbigtanker

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 08:59 PM

Looks good but are you going to leave that pipe sticking out that far.

#129 rinigado

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 04:14 AM

Looks good but are you going to leave that pipe sticking out that far.

I want to have it exit more under the reverse light, so that I can fit bumperettes, but I ran out of bends to get that done. Sticking straight out until I reroute it.



#130 mrbigtanker

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 04:32 PM

I want to have it exit more under the reverse light, so that I can fit bumperettes, but I ran out of bends to get that done. Sticking straight out until I reroute it.

i ran mine short and dumped it goin down so not to blow carbon on tails. Plus i just dont like the whole chrome tip thing. looking good though.



#131 rinigado

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 11:58 PM

got around to pulling the motor this weekend, so that I can go through and replace gaskets, clean up the engine bay, and hopefully start to reduce the size of the oil slick on my driveway. Any of the bolts holding the transmission and motor in place were the easiest bolts to remove from the truck so far, so I guess someone was in there sometime more recently than 1971. When I pulled the oil pan off, I see that the pan is painted  on the inside. Mostly the paints in good shape except closer to the gasket sealing surface. Hopefully this stuff never flakes off?

MsEt5V1.jpg

and it looks like someone did someone did some balancing (grinding) of connecting rods and crank, like this:

 

UOBLzju.jpg

 

or this:

 

1F2tFO0.jpg

 

Is any of that done at the factory, or afterwards?

 

The engine has a lots of old oily crud on it, and some extra grimy spots like right where timing cover would meet up with the head:

 

OjhK9No.jpg

 

the back/bottom was also pretty oily; for sure pan gasket has some bad spots, but there's also oil in the bottom of the transmission bellhousing

 

g6IvC08.jpg

 

and since the motor's out I'll put rear main seal for the extra few bucks. Generally, other than fixing any oil leaks, I also want to clean and paint the motor, and clean/paint some rusty areas on the truck before putting things back together. I'm thinking por15 the block and then top coat with engine enamel. Passenger side of the block is mostly old paint and oil, but driver's side of the block is mostly surface rust, so hoping por15 as a base might work out.



#132 Crashtd420

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 04:02 AM

I did the por15 on my block just like you said..... came out good... just make sure you clean it extra good.....

And I believe the crank is balanced from the factory ... yours looks like it was done after, mine had only drilled holes.. But it's hard to say for sure...

And my last comment is check the pilot bushing..... back of the crank where the transmission shaft inserts....
The brass bushing is only like 5 dollars..
There is also a roller bearing upgrade for like 20.... I can try to find that part number if you want....

#133 rinigado

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 10:53 PM

roller bearing seems like overkill for my slow old truck, but that's a good idea about spending the buck or two to replace the bushing while everything's apart. 

 

btw did you do anything to prep the por15 surface before top coat (scuff it? primer? por15 tie coat)?



#134 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 01:51 AM

Ya the roller bearing might be overkill, i used one even if it was... those brass bushings do there job just fine...

And what I did to paint the engine was follow the normal prep for por15....
I didnt scuff it really but I used a scotch brite pad to scrub the engine clean..
Basically
1- degrease (I use the por15 degreaser because it cleans up with water)
2- use their metal prep ( also cleans up with water)
3- por15 paint I did 1 coat..
4- por15 engine paint I did 2 coats....
If you paint one coat after the other there is no need for that tie coat, and i used the por15 as the primer basically...

#135 tr8er

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 09:59 AM

Por15 sells an etching primer. I've never used it on an engine block, but it works well as your first coat.

#136 Crashtd420

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 03:17 AM

You don't really need that primer if you paint each coat one after the other....
I even used por15 on my cab with a flat black single stage top coat over it. .. no primer at all....
the primer is more for cured paint jobs if you want to spray over it without doing any surface prep....