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My island turquoise 521


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#41 Crashtd420

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 03:48 AM

I agree the ebrake may be set to tight but Doesnt the system need fluid and to be bleed properly before setting the ebrake? I assume you'd want the wheel cylinders extended and the hydrolic part of the brakes set before adjusting out the ebrake.. Just asking this because that's exactly how mine came out . right now I am without a master cylinder so i cant bleed my system but I needed the ebrake at least to keep the truck from moving..

#42 hobospyder

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 03:55 AM

I agree the ebrake may be set to tight but Doesnt the system need fluid and to be bleed properly before setting the ebrake? I assume you'd want the wheel cylinders extended and the hydrolic part of the brakes set before adjusting out the ebrake.. Just asking this because that's exactly how mine came out . right now I am without a master cylinder so i cant bleed my system but I needed the ebrake at least to keep the truck from moving..

 

umm....

 

Maybe you have the e-brake adjusted too tight and that is forcing the shoe out.

You need to disconnect the e-brake cable in the center and let it lay on the ground, then adjust the adjuster so that you can just get the drum on, then adjust the rear brakes so the shoes are just starting to drag, do both sides, then when the brakes are done/adjusted, then re-connect the e-brake cable to where when you pull the e-brake lever it comes up 2/3rds of the way, it might be too tight, so it might need adjusted/loosened just to get it back together.

 

he said to wait until they are bled and properly adjusted to set the ebrake. so yes you can't properly set the ebrake until everything else is done. try some wheel chocks, rock or block of wood?


Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#43 Crashtd420

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:10 AM

That wasn't clear to me in waynos post about bleeding the brakes. No where did he say bleed the system first. it just talked about adjusting the clearance on the drums and shoes.... and without jacking this guy's thread. Yes I know about wheel chocks but I need to load mine on a trailer soon with no hydrolic brakes hooked up ... I wanted some way to stop it on its own....

#44 hobospyder

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:31 AM

look again at my post, i bolded the part that i read as the brakes need bled. hold on, i'll put it in quotations and on it's own line

 

"then when the brakes are done/adjusted"

 

done and adjusted. you have to bleed the brakes to adjust them properly and/or be done with the brakes. they have to be all the way back together first.

 

either way, if your shoes and everything are in there i guess you could use the e-brake but i wouldn't trust it personally because you have a gap between a shoe and the cylinder. who know's, you may have more luck than me. i've run myself over with a 620 before


Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#45 Datsunthug

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:32 AM

Ouch

#46 Crashtd420

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:59 AM

Maybe you have the e-brake adjusted too tight and that is forcing the shoe out.
You need to disconnect the e-brake cable in the center and let it lay on the ground, then adjust the adjuster so that you can just get the drum on, then adjust the rear brakes so the shoes are just starting to drag, do both sides, then when the brakes are done/adjusted, then re-connect the e-brake cable to where when you pull the e-brake lever it comes up 2/3rds of the way, it might be too tight, so it might need adjusted/loosened just to get it back together.


OK so here's waynos post you copied and highlighted... no where does it say to bleed first.. only says when brakes are done/adjusted... maybe your assuming done means bled but that's not how it reads... all I was trying to do was clarify...

#47 hobospyder

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:18 AM

OK so here's waynos post you copied and highlighted... no where does it say to bleed first.. only says when brakes are done/adjusted... maybe your assuming done means bled but that's not how it reads... all I was trying to do was clarify...

they have to be bled to be adjusted properly so done/adjusted to me means they have to be bled in that process. even if they didn't have to be adjusted done still means bled to me. don't know how you read it any differently but ok. we can wait until wayno gets back on


Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#48 hobospyder

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:18 AM

Ouch

you ok?


Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#49 DanielC

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:40 AM

The hand, or emergency brake does not need brake fluid to work.  It is a completely independent system, so in case of a fluid leak, you can still stop the truck.

 

Once the brake shoes are adjusted, there is a turn buckle under the truck, under the drivers seat, that adjusts hand brake slack.

 

Have you downloaded the Nissan 521 chassis service manual?  It shows you a lot of information about your truck, including brakes.



#50 Crashtd420

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:44 AM

Wow some one woke on the wrong side of the bed... do you need a hug?....
I agree they need to be bled so I don't understand what your issue is...
The first thing rinigado said was he had not bled the rear brakes yet and thenot the posts went straight to adjusting the ebrake with no mention of bleeding. And then you chimed in on my comment ... now this guy's post is littered with our conversation.. you could have simply stated yes it need to be bled first... i never assume any thing has been done....

#51 Crashtd420

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:59 AM

And Daniel if the manual comment was for me yes I have plenty of books to refer to. This is all a simple question/ statement gone bad...

#52 rinigado

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 09:21 AM

wandering back to the original question/problem, the ebrake right now is able to push the shoes out and hold the drum, independent of the hydraulic cylinder. So, that's good! If the ebrake cable needs adjustment, then not being able to retract the brake cable fully could mean that the springs can't pull the shoes back far enough to settle against the wheel cylinder, so that makes sense to me. That or I have the extension link in a slightly or horribly wrong position!  If there's a gap in the rain here today I'll get back into it and see whats up. And assuming that gets sorted, then it'd make sense to bleed/adjust everything and then take another look at ebrake adjustment, no?



#53 Datsunthug

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 09:47 AM

you ok?

Don't get run over by your truck!?!,

#54 Crashtd420

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 10:01 AM

Let me say sorry for getting things off track on your post.. I was curious what the solution was as I have the same situation... I personally don't believe your question was actually answered. So good luck. I hope to see what you do to correct it...

#55 wayno

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 10:47 AM

OK guys, I was just looking at a brake assembly with the question why do I have a gap here with a yellow arrow, I didn't even think about if the brakes needed bleeding or not, as I can do my brakes(new shoes/linings) without having to compromise the hydraulic brake system, therefore I don't need to bleed the brakes.

 

Yes, if you changed the wheel cylinders, once the drums are on both sides and you have adjusted the brakes the first time so they drag slightly, you need to bleed the brakes, once they are bled then final adjustment of the shoes needs to be done, then re-connect the e-brake cable, at least that is how I would do it, but if you need the truck back on the ground because you cannot bleed the brakes for one reason or another, then once the drum is on and you have adjusted the brakes so they just barely drag turning the drum both ways, then re-connect the e-brake cable and adjust it so that it functions properly.

 

Again, I was just addressing the gap between the shoe and wheel cylinder, either the e-brake extension link as the original poster called it was in backwards, or a little while later I came up with the more likely issue/problem, that being the e-brake cable being to tight, which is more likely the actual issue/problem.


 

 


#56 hobospyder

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 01:22 PM

Don't get run over by your truck!?!,

wasn't the first time i've been ran over, probably won't be the last


Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#57 rinigado

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 01:54 PM

Let me say sorry for getting things off track on your post.....


Not a problem, more conversation is ok! The rain just isn't stopping so I doubt I'll get back into it today, much as I'd like to get this sorted. I satisfied myself with buying a can of yellow krylon stained glass paint and a couple other bits I need.

One other thing I need to track down is a little hitch pin for the clevis pin that holds the parking brake lever to the shoe on one side. I temporarily put a c clip there but it's not a great fit. I guess I'll be taking things apart again on the brakes so might as well get the right part.

#58 Crashtd420

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 02:02 PM

Are these what your looking for...
20170123_162126_zpspbez4ttj.jpg

These are the 2 I replaced with new ones when I did my rear brakes but theres nothing wrong with them not even rusty...
Pm me your address and I will throw them in the mail tomorrow will only cost me a stamp and I got one of those....

#59 rinigado

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 03:17 PM

Thanks Crashtd420, pm sent!



#60 rinigado

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 08:24 PM

one more thing on my mind about the brakes, is that single reservoir master cylinder. I think I'll copy a ratsun thread from a couple years ago and add a dual cylinder master to the todo list. I'm looking online at a '76 620 master cylinder from centric, mostly because the bleeders are on the opposite side from the clutch master cylinder.

 

If I understand correctly, the different sized wheel cylinders that are already on the front and back drums take care of proportioning brake pressure front/back, so should be fairly straightforward to install? replace the 4 way connector in front with a tee for front left/right, or plug the hole going to the rear and run the other reservoir to the back circuit? And get a proper length pushrod.