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My island turquoise 521


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#21 rinigado

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:01 PM

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Part numbers: 41213-04100
41215-08000
Got them at the local Nissan dealer. Not sure which number goes to what part. Nice truck!!!

thanks..I'll call them tomorrow. how much did they charge? 



#22 Datsunthug

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:08 PM

Wasn't much. I bought 4 of each and it was under $20. I bought all they had in Roseville CA so I'd have spares. If you can't find any I could ship you a set

#23 Datsunthug

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:13 PM

7B73B61E-4AE6-4994-AA10-6EE080508C07_zps
BBCA8DBC-7FEC-4198-B721-1FCA95253969_zps

#24 Datsunthug

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:20 PM

Part number 41214-04100
Found another bag from the same trip to the dealer. There are three different parts that all have the same shape. The silver one in the pic is a shim

#25 rinigado

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:20 PM

Wasn't much. I bought 4 of each and it was under $20. I bought all they had in Roseville CA so I'd have spares. If you can't find any I could ship you a set

I appreciate the offer. I'll call around here and see who has some. I'm glad you said you're a bit north of me..more likely to still have some down here! 



#26 rinigado

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:21 PM

Part number 41214-04100
Found another bag from the same trip to the dealer. There are three different parts that all have the same shape. The silver one in the pic is a shim

yeah, should be 3 pieces from the manual. I saw one place online selling a set with just 2 parts; likely without the shim? I'm guessing that's an easy way to end up missing the clips later on!



#27 flatcat19

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 09:09 PM

The front will work on the back and vice versa.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#28 rinigado

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 01:38 PM

Couldn't find all 3 piece of the adjuster clip, or even the two clip pieces (not the shim) at one dealer. Sacramento had a couple of the pieces and a dealer in San Diego had a couple. Datsunthug if you have one set you'll part with, pm me the cost and PayPal info.

#29 Datsunthug

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 01:44 PM

Check your inbox. I sent you a message

#30 flatcat19

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 01:58 PM

I have a bunch of some, maybe a couple of the others.

I don't remember which all I have.

If thug can't get ya squared away I'll send some off to you.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#31 rinigado

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 02:57 PM

Thanks flatcat for the offer! datsunthug is hooking me up, so should be in good shape in a few days :)



#32 mikec4193

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Posted 19 January 2017 - 02:39 PM

Hey rinigado

 

Love your new Datsun truck....looks like a lot of fun for sure...wheels look like what I had back in the day (1980's)....wow so long ago now...keep up the great work...

 

MikeC


...it is pure sex to drive around town. Kinda like darting around in your favorite pair of britches... (thanks difrangia)


#33 Datsunthug

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Posted 19 January 2017 - 03:44 PM

Parts on the way!! Keep us posted

#34 rinigado

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Posted 19 January 2017 - 04:59 PM

Parts on the way!! Keep us posted


W00t! Got a box of parts from rock auto today too so with any luck Saturday I'll get the rear brakes sorted.

#35 rinigado

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 12:48 PM

argh...have a piece of hard line going to one brake that has a rounded over nut. Time to run to the local shop before daylight runs out. 3/16 inverted flare sound right?



#36 DanielC

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 01:24 PM

Yes, 3/8-24 flare nut threads is stock. 

Some 620 brake parts will fit on a 521 truck.  If this happened, the fasteners on a 620 truck are metric, and the brake lines use M10-1.0 flare nuts.



#37 rinigado

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 10:34 PM

Thanks a ton Datsunthug, the wheel adjuster clips showed up in the mail today!

 

I replaced all the brake hardware on the back of the truck, and one piece of hard brake line on the drivers side back wheel. Everything went as smooth as wrestling with brake springs can go, and the brakes look mostly like they're supposed to, except for a gap at the top where the shoes should meet the wheel cylinder.

 

brake1_zpsj4kbykdk.jpg

 

and a bit closer view

 

brake2_zpskgu7wxzk.jpg

 

I ended up screwing around in town for a while this afternoon chasing parts and other stuff, and ran out of daylight. So I wrapped up most of the work installing new parts, without refilling fluid and bleeding the system. The parking brake is working fine right now, and I roughly manually adjusted things but did not do anything yet with brake fluid, bleeding, or any interaction with the brake pedal. The wheel cylinders are both completely retracted right now, since I didn't send any brake fluid into them yet. Obviously the piston will push out once I apply brakes but I didn't want to do that until I get some opinion here on whether this gap seems expected or not.

 

The extension link seems to be slotted in correctly, but that seems like the only thing that would force this gap. Is that gap a normal thing to see give the wheel cylinders haven't been extended at all? Wheel cylinders and shoes look to be same dimensions as what I took off. 



#38 wayno

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 10:44 PM

It should be resting against the wheel cylinder, did you get the metal piece between the shoes just below the upper spring backwards?

It is made with an extra notch for the e-brake lever.


 

 


#39 rinigado

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 10:47 PM

It should be resting against the wheel cylinder, did you get the metal piece between the shoes just below the upper spring backwards?

It is made with an extra notch for the e-brake lever.

I'll have to take another look in daylight tomorrow. I thought I got that longer slot in the right place for the parking brake lever, but I'll check. Seems like that's the only thing that could be causing the space.



#40 wayno

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 11:31 PM

Maybe you have the e-brake adjusted too tight and that is forcing the shoe out.

You need to disconnect the e-brake cable in the center and let it lay on the ground, then adjust the adjuster so that you can just get the drum on, then adjust the rear brakes so the shoes are just starting to drag, do both sides, then when the brakes are done/adjusted, then re-connect the e-brake cable to where when you pull the e-brake lever it comes up 2/3rds of the way, it might be too tight, so it might need adjusted/loosened just to get it back together.