Letsurf Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I have a Z24 that has been converted over to Weber 32/36 DGEV carb. The intake manifold is from the fuel injection engine so larger ports. I'm having trouble getting it to run right and have heard 3 different configurations for the best performance. Does anyone have any idea which one of these is correct? Option 1: Main Jet: 140/135 Air Corr. Jet: 165/160 Idle Jet: 55/50 Option 2: Main Jet: 140/140 Air Corr. Jet: 170/160 Idle Jet: 60/50 Option 3: Main Jet: 150/180 Air Corr. Jet: 150/180 Idle Jet: 65/60 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 whats the proplem? a lot of 32/36 run on 6 cyl motors so it should handle it. Quote Link to comment
Letsurf Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 whats the proplem? a lot of 32/36 run on 6 cyl motors so it should handle it. No power at all. Seems to do OK at 25% throttle but when I hit mid and full throttle just doesn't have any umph to it. The RPMs can scream but no get up and go if you know what I mean. I've literally been through every component on the engine. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hoe old is the crab? There was a change made about 15 years ago that improved the primary to secondary transition. If it is stamped "5A" then it's the newer, improved version. If you have an older carb, then there's not a lot you can do about the bog. If it's the newer carb, then it probably just needs some jetting. Quote Link to comment
Letsurf Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hoe old is the crab? There was a change made about 15 years ago that improved the primary to secondary transition. If it is stamped "5A" then it's the newer, improved version. If you have an older carb, then there's not a lot you can do about the bog. If it's the newer carb, then it probably just needs some jetting. I bought the carb new in the box a few years ago from a local mechanic. He had ordered for a customer and they didn't pay him or something. I'm pretty sure it's newer but he could have had it on the shelf for 15 years lol. I think it is stamped 32/36 DGEV 172. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I saw a database of Weber date coding somewhere. I think it may have been on one of their American dealer's websites. It may be worth poking around the web to figure out the age of your carb before you spend hours trying to jet and re-jet. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 I find it strange. They are pretty basic carbs and I had a 3liter Capri and it had a weber type carb and ran like a mofo. Sure timming is correct on this motor? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 I guess banzai is on the right track. Did the truck run good before you took the original carb off? Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 just to make sure, contact Pierce Manifold, Gilroy California. But it should run okay. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Just wondering why you would be running a weber on a Z24i ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Keep in mind that the Z series are not high revving barn burners to begin with. They have low speed stump pulling torque that drops off around 4K, so don't expect it to keep pulling and slamming you back in the seat above this. It's all relative and you may be getting all there is to give. Try running full throttle out on the highway for a couple of miles then safely pull over and stop. Pull the plugs from the exhaust (easy) side and 'read' them. Dark brown and black is too rich, light tan is perfec., Very light or (even worse) extremely white porcelain is very lean. Too rich will run ok but have shitty mileage. Too lean gives very poor performance. If plugs are too light in color it's very possible the secondary jet may be blocked or part blocked causing a lean condition. Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Whats jets ect in weber currently?? Quote Link to comment
Letsurf Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Keep in mind that the Z series are not high revving barn burners to begin with. They have low speed stump pulling torque that drops off around 4K, so don't expect it to keep pulling and slamming you back in the seat above this. It's all relative and you may be getting all there is to give. Try running full throttle out on the highway for a couple of miles then safely pull over and stop. Pull the plugs from the exhaust (easy) side and 'read' them. Dark brown and black is too rich, light tan is perfec., Very light or (even worse) extremely white porcelain is very lean. Too rich will run ok but have shitty mileage. Too lean gives very poor performance. If plugs are too light in color it's very possible the secondary jet may be blocked or part blocked causing a lean condition. I called weber and they said that the 38-dges would be better because the large plenum on the z24i intake caused too much loss in velocity with the 32/36. I installed the 38-dges and it has a lot more power but it bogs out when I accelerate too fast. Also when I drive down the street then coast down to a stop sign and do a rolling stop and hit the gas it will almost die and then shoot forward with power. When I cycle the throttle with the 38-dges it has WAY more response like a little race truck now compared to how it was before. Just need to get this cutting out thing resolved. I have literally tried jetting it from idle jets 40-60 and main jets from 135 - 160 and still can't get it to stop cutting out when accelerating too fast. Another thing to note is that on the 38-dges you can't turn the speed screw past 1/2 turn or it will expose the enriching ports. Well I can turn the screw completely out and the flaps at the bottom of the carb are completely closed and the truck still idles. It shouldn't run at all with those flaps closed right? Quote Link to comment
Letsurf Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 I guess banzai is on the right track. Did the truck run good before you took the original carb off? There has always been a power issue with the truck but I think it was due to me turning the speed screw on the 32/36 too far in. I tested the vacuum advance and at 2100 rpm it was exactly 14.5 degrees which is where I think it should be. I have tried 8* btdc and 10* btdc which is what weber recommends. I have brand new coils, new plug wires, plugs, new distributor, all new wiring and connectors for the ignition setup... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Weber does not design engines I can't believe they said to increase your timing to 8 or 10 degrees. Factory setting is 3 degrees +-2 degrees for a reason. You carb bog problem was answered on your other post about it and why you should only have one. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 off idle 38s are good But if on a hill and you got to clutch it. I can bog out as your opening both barrels to fast and loose vaccum. Quote Link to comment
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