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Matt's 70 2 door 510 take 2.


mbunzel

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Dime looks awesome!

Thanks guys! Had some time to work on the wiring the other day finally got all the wiring sorted and i have lights now using a standard 5 pin relay and the stock fuse box. Did a couple setbacks though right rear tire is rubbing pretty bad on the side wall and inner fender and the right rear wheel cylinder failed on me. I ended up installing a new wheel cylinder yesterday and while I was at it did some more inner fender clearance work. Im not sure Im going to get  much more out of it and the inner fender is still close enough to rub when the car squats. What are guys doing to the inner fenders to get away with being low and running a semi aggressive fitment? Ideally I dont wanna be this low but I cant shell out the dough for coilovers right now and my springs are what they are.

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Seals for the new front and rear wind shields came in. I ended up going with vintage rubber seals and they fit pretty nice. The front seal is grooved for the chrome trim and the rear is their cal-style. Only complaint is with the front seal the grooves for the trim at the corners is a little funky but other than that they are good.

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Also decided to build my own coilover setup using all QA1 stuff. Ended up being around 450 bucks and worked out nicely.

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After I installed the coilovers I took the car to my old shop and aligned the thing. Was able to get everything dialed in except for the rear (still no adjustments in the rear). Toe on the passenger side rear was a little out but not much I can do at this point. 

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After the alignment. Ended up raising it up and 1/2 inch in the rear to keep it from rubbing. 

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Wrinkle black painted a spare valve cover I had. Turned out pretty nice, although I went a little heavy in a couple spots so it didn't wrinkle right. 

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Somewhere around that time had to move to a new city. Moving my tool box and the 510 were something I knew was going to happen but was dreading. Fortunately a friend came through with a trailer for the tool box and I was supposed to drive the 510 behind him, but half way through loading the tool box up we decided to just put the 510 on the trailer too. 510 is stuck in this picture ha ha. Couple of pieces of wood and 15 mins later it was on.

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 The new garage had no work bench or shelves so I  spent a day building a nice work bench and some shelves and went to costco and bought 6 of their LED shop lights. I have to say this is the most light I have ever had in a shop of mine. 

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The 510 and 620 in their new home.

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After driving the 510 around for a bit I decided it needed some sound deadening. I ended up going with Noico brand sound deadening. I ended up having enough to do all the floor and roof which should help a bunch.

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I also put in a Corbeau seat my buddy gave me for free. Not really the seat I would ideally want in the 510 only cause it is so wide but hey it was free. I had to make some custom brackets to mount the seat and while I had all tools out I decide to make a rear trunk firewall panel. Panel turned out pretty nice for just whipping something up out of spare material I had.

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Next thing I have planned is to make a skid plate. I have scrapped the oil pan/drain plug multiple times now and the last time I scrapped I was doing 40ish and felt it slow me down and heard chunks of asphalt shoot out the back. I thought for sure the pan was done on that one but somehow it survived. I was thinking about making a skid plate that mounts to the front of the crossmember and then runs back and ties in to the trans crossmember. Anybody ever make one?

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After a couple times driving it this is the what my oil pan looked like. 

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So I ended up getting some free 10 gauge sheet metal the other day and decided to give it ago. This is what I ended up coming up with. It utilizes the three m8x1.25 captured nuts that are already on the bottom of the crossmember, then I ran it back to the edge of the bellhousing for the trans and used the lower two bellhousing bolt holes.  

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And this is what it looks like on the car. It covers all the important stuff that has scraped before. Only thing I wanna add is a hole for the engine oil drain plug so it doesn't have to be removed every oil change. 

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So you bolted it to the crossmember and the bellhousing?

 

If thats the case, you're basically solid mounting the driveline now.

I wouldnt really say that it is solid mounting the driveline. The rear of the trans ( where the transmission crossmember is) still can move around as much as it wants. The only reason I tied it into the bellhousing is the lowest portion of the bellhousing has scraped numerous times and Id rather semi solid mount the front of the trans than allow it to get smacked on ground or whatever else and damage the trans casing. 

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It's much better than no guard, no doubting that, just thought it would transmit more NVH, maybe a rubber cushioning bush on the bellhousing bolts to allow a bit of movement.

I have driven it a couple times since the skid plate and honestly the thing is so loud inside anyways I couldnt tell you if it was any louder or not. 

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Hahaha, fair enough, the fact that you went to the trouble of sound deadening the inside means you care a little bit about the road noise.

Just fit some decent speakers to some sound deadened doors with good door seals, and crank them up and belt out some tunes, bobs your uncle, problem solved.

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Hahaha, fair enough, the fact that you went to the trouble of sound deadening the inside means you care a little bit about the road noise.

 

Just fit some decent speakers to some sound deadened doors with good door seals, and crank them up and belt out some tunes, bobs your uncle, problem solved.

Ha ha ha oddly enough neither of my datsuns have radios in them....Something I need to fix!

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I have an older version that wasn't waterproof that has better speakers in it. When doing trips in a datsun or my pathfinder I make sure both are charged up to make the full trip. One of them on full charge can make it to Canby and part of the weekend depending on how much I use it or the trip home. Went down 101 to Eugene last summer and the old version lasted that trip (5am to 7pm or so), the trip to Canby and part ways back to home. Wasn't running wireless for the trip down though.

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I have an older version that wasn't waterproof that has better speakers in it. When doing trips in a datsun or my pathfinder I make sure both are charged up to make the full trip. One of them on full charge can make it to Canby and part of the weekend depending on how much I use it or the trip home. Went down 101 to Eugene last summer and the old version lasted that trip (5am to 7pm or so), the trip to Canby and part ways back to home. Wasn't running wireless for the trip down though.

Took the 510 up highway 9 to peaceful valley yesterday and used mine. 

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Everytime after driving it I noticed there would be a spot of green fluid on the frame rail under the steering box. The other day after I drove it for an hour or so the steering felt tight and the green spot was back so I decided to see what was going on. As soon as I pulled the plug on the steering box it released some pressure and pushed out green grease. Turns out at some point somebody had put grease in the steering box instead of gear oil. It took a good hour of q-tip work and brake clean to get the majority of the grease out. This is what came out.

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After getting most of it out I filled the box back up with MT-90 and the steering feels a million times better. 

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I met another 510 guy in the new city I moved to and he set me up with this lip. I have a lip coming in the mail but its still a month out and this lip was to good of a deal to pass up so I went for it. Im not sure what brand it is but I see them every so often on other 510's. The fitment wasnt great and it had some pretty big gaps where it rounds the corners on the fenders. The original plan was to rivet it on but since the lip had to be flexed so much in areas the rivets were not working. I ended up using some spare stainless hardware I had laying around which made sucking it in to match the body lines a little easier. Still have to paint it but for the time being here is a picture with it mounted up. 

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Also replaced the door hinge bushings on the drivers side door, I'm not sure how to load videos on here, but wow they were bad. One of the original plastic bushings was missing completely. Door operation feels so much nicer now and the best part is no more slamming the door to make it shut. 

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