Posted 28 December 2016 - 08:08 PM
is it bad if the torsion bar bolt is loose ? because I need to lower it about a inch more to make the height leveled
Follow my ig @720's
Posted 28 December 2016 - 08:17 PM
And the solution to your problem is re-indexing your torsion bars. Remove the bars competely, turn them one spline, reinstall them, that will reset your adjustability on the torsion bar bolt.
Also, your topic title is useless. You will get more help from useful titles, like "4 inch drop torsion bar adjustment problem" or whatever.
Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361
Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455
720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/
Posted 28 December 2016 - 08:20 PM
If the nut has run out of thread this is not good. Both nuts should be on the anchor bolt. The top nut is jammed against the lower to lock it in place
What you can do is support the truck up, remove the torsion bar and rotate it and install it with more anchor bolt showing. This is called indexing the torsion bar.
Re index your torsion bars. Here you go.
Posted 29 December 2016 - 02:09 AM
No!!! Do as instructed by flatcat19. Pay attention there will be a test!
Search indexing torsion bars. There is a member from here who made a YouTube video.
Video is for a 521 but everything applies to your 720.
Here is my build link:
Here is my 86 720 2WD King Cab Thread
Here is my 85 720 2WD King Cab ST Build Thread
Here is my Photo Bucket Album Link:
Posted 29 December 2016 - 07:22 AM
My 720 build: http://community.rat...-got-questions/
My 521 build: http://community.rat...l-datsun/page-1
Posted 29 December 2016 - 09:14 AM
Once the torsion bars are bottomed out on the LCA you have no front suspension, period. The torsion bar is a spring that absorbs a bump through distance turned. It would normally release this energy on the rebound like a ball, but this is where the shock absorber comes in. It resists movement of the torsion bar in both direction, dampens multiple bounces and turns it into heat. As the torsion bar and the shock are no longer moving, or almost not moving, the only thing left to absorb a bump is the air in the tires. These have no shock absorption and are truly a bouncing rubber ball.
If your rubber bump stop is removed and the torsion bar is loose you have probably compressed the shock absorbers fully and have bottomed them out.
You know, when I see a vehicle lowered to the point where it affects it's handling and control safely, just for the sake of how it 'looks', I have to shake my head. It can be done right but this ain't it... yet. The whole point of a suspension is to keep the wheels in contact with the road when rolling over a 'bump'. (not talking about the speed bump in the parking lot at 10 MPH here) Without it, the tire will bounce off the ground. Always consider worst case scenarios. Rounding a curve at speed and hitting an unforeseen dip or bump in the road. What about wet or mud or snow as well? Front tires loose contact briefly several times on the bounce, enough to loose control. There are many who will say they have never had this problem. I would say 'yet'. Just be careful. You're radically altering your truck. To a point, lowering it can actually improve the handling by lowering the center of gravity, yes, but taken too far you need to be aware of the dangers you are adding.
Posted 29 December 2016 - 10:45 AM
It sounds like you want to be lower than is possible without major modifications, if you have removed the bump stops in the front and rear you are almost sitting on the frame in the rear, and you are sitting on the shock in the front, the 521 front shock is shorter than the 720 front shock, so you can buy a set of them for the front, but they are not so much shorter that you will be able to go any lower, as after you hit a few bumps and compress/bottom out the 521 shocks it will destroy them and you will have to buy another set, bottom out them a few times and you will have to buy another set, repeat, repeat, repeat, it can get very expensive.
I would say with a degree of certainty that if you were to get a flat in the rear right now the lower shock mount will drag on the road, if at hiway speed that could be dangerous, also since your torsion bars are fully loose and have not been re-indexed, the bump stops have been removed, and your sitting on the shocks, that your torsion bar arms are hanging below the frame, if the torsion bar adjustment arms hit on the ground when you go into a driveway or over a speed bump it will destroy them and then you will not have a vehicle to drive till you buy another set of torsion bars, and I will say this with certainty, the seat is not a good enough suspension to be your only suspension.
It takes time and money to get as low as you want to be, you cannot just buy some blocks and loosen a couple bolts to get what you want, your exhaust pipe is going to drag, your cross members are going to drag, your front rear leaf mount is going to drag, the cross member under your oil pan is going to hit the ground hard one day, maybe on a man hole cover that is sticking up, that could total/totally destroy the truck, if you were to rear end someone, your front bumper will go under the vehicle you rear ended and totally destroy everything in the front all the way to the engine including the water pump minimum.
You need to use 2 or 3 inch blocks in the rear instead of the 4 inch blocks, and then get everything dialed in, then after you understand all of it and how it all works, then decide how to get it lower, drop spindles and new 15 inch wheels with lower profile tires will get you lower, it's all about how much you have to spend, and what tools you have to make the modifications you need to get lower.