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[new title] 77 280z w/ l28et regeneration


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#21 brapattack

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 05:54 PM

Thanks Hainz, i'll look up your videos.  

 

Yeah I decided I might as well go ahead and pull the head to do that gasket, take a look at the cylinder walls, replace valve oil seals and all that.  

 

I don't have a timing chain wedge in there, just a hook for the chain to keep tension on it.  Guess i'll have to pull the water pump to reset the guides?



#22 DanielC

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 05:58 PM

You will have to pull the cam chain cover off the engine.  There is a spring loaded tensioner by the crankshaft sprocket, that probably sprung out.

Sorry for the bad news.



#23 brapattack

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 06:39 PM

Oh, its okay.  Might as well start getting more familiar with this motor and I've got a break from work so its a good time to put in some time.



#24 brapattack

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 04:00 PM

Ooof getting those intake and exhuast manifolds off was a chore.  Found out why I was having some exhaust leaks though.  The studs at the front and rear were both broken off.  No for the fun of drilling them out of the head and putting in a coil.

 

Got the front cover off and front seal replaced.  Unfortunately both my chamshaft sprocket and timing chain are the types without marking and bright links.  SO they much ave been changed but I don't know how recently and its tough to say which hole to install them on (they were on hole 1).

 

 

Learning a lot though and glad i'm crossing off some problem areas while I have the time to do the work.  Found that the thermometer wire was not attached to anything (does this matter?) also the O2 sensor wasn't plugged into anything.  seems like a lot of data that just never go routed back to the ECU.



#25 DanielC

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:21 PM

I would not be surprised if there are at least two sensors for coolant temp.  One for the ECU, and one for the temp gauge.

 

On the four cylinder L-engines, with stock timing chain parts, you set the crankshaft at TDC, and there is a small "V" notch in the back of the cam sprocket, that lines up with another small groove in the cam sprocket thrust plate, when the camshaft is at TDC position.



#26 brapattack

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:28 PM

Those marks are supposed to be on this engine too but for some reason my cam sprocket doesn't have the V to check against the dash mark.

#27 brapattack

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 04:20 PM

Changed out my rear window rubber and treated some rust there.  Also, found that I have the original tool kit and very little rust in the spare wheel well.

 

Is there a way to get flickr photos on here?  Photobucket is such a turd to use.

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#28 Bleach

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 09:55 AM

Since you do have the full turbo engine and not just the P90a head on a non-turbo L28, you might not want to be putting in a higher lift  or longer duration cam. Bigger cams are not much of a help on forced induction engines. (at least not on this old L-series)

Go with more boost and other upgrades but leave the stock cam in there.


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#29 datzenmike

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 10:12 AM

The crank sprocket will have a dot stamped in it. Or it should, check the other side? Set engine to TDC and you can set the cam sprocket by counting the links up from the crank sprocket. I think it's 44 links. The L28 block is similar to the L20B block for height. The L20B came from the factory on the #2 hole. The missing V is a pain but you can start with #1 hole and by using a chain wedge to keep the tensioner in place, move the cam sprocket to the #2 hole and try it. Keep records of MPG and how well it performs. If there is any improvement run with it. 


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#30 brapattack

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 04:22 PM

Guhhhhhh! just tried to put my head back on with fresh headbolts and one snapped during the second round of torquing.  What a fucking pain in the ass.  Guess I have to buy another overpriced bolt and pay for shipping again and try again.  I thought 2016 was over.



#31 brapattack

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Posted 03 January 2017 - 11:50 AM

Pulled my oil pan today to change the gasket and found this:

IMG_6380_zpstha5al9o.jpgGuess my crankshaft is toast.  The keys are what keep all the oil and timing gears in place with the crankshaft.  



#32 Bleach

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Posted 04 January 2017 - 02:10 PM

Save the head, get a used L28 block. (dished pistons) and go turbo.


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#33 brapattack

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Posted 04 January 2017 - 03:45 PM

Oh i've got turbo already.  Made myself a fuel rail today and just tried to avoid thinking about the bottom end for a day.  

 

Found out why my head torquing went haywire...my damn torque wrench seems to work fine a few times then refuses to 'click' at random and you have to reset it and then it will start working again.  Frustrating cause I thought it was a decent one.

 

I looked up at the crankshaft while turning it and can't figure out where that big hunk of metal came from.  My hopeful thinking is that its the result of a previous incident that was already addressed.  Can't spy any broken off bits while turning the crank and looking all over from the underside.  



#34 brapattack

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 03:10 PM

Okay, I got the car back together and running.  Dropped it off at a muffler shop today to have them sort out some new mounts.

 

I found that a PO had installed a wideband o2 sensor....but didn't actually wire it to anything.  Since the original wiring was still in there, I put in an OEM sensor and will hold onto the wideband in case I upgrade the ECU and stuff in the future.  The car seems to run much better with the o2 sensor actually sending some data.

 

Had to replace the alternator, it has an internal regulator so I thought I could take out the old reg that under the panel on the passenger side.  For some reason I couldn't get it to charge so I tried connecting those wires again and it seems to be charging correctly...but I thought this would mean two regulators in the system which is bad?  I thought the reg was a leftover bit from the pre-280zx motor swap but its still a struggle to figure out what bits of the wiring system are from the old vs new setup.

 

Also, now when I hit the throttle and then release it, the idle drops super low and sometimes recovers, other times it dies.  If it doesn't die it will come back up to a good idle.  I don't know if this is effected by the TPS setting, AFM settings or something about the edited vac system.  I am still try to research this area but I am also planning to drive it to a local mechanic who specializes in z cars for advice.



#35 Bleach

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 04:37 PM

now when I hit the throttle and then release it, the idle drops super low and sometimes recovers, other times it dies.  If it doesn't die it will come back up to a good idle.  I don't know if this is effected by the TPS setting, AFM settings or something about the edited vac system.  I am still try to research this area but I am also planning to drive it to a local mechanic who specializes in z cars for advice.

I wish I knew as well! Both my turbo swap and my stock OEM 280ZX turbo had that trouble.

Someone once told me that could be from low fuel pressure. Check for a small filter by the fuel pump... replace your pump... maybe put in new filters. Make sure they are injection type filters and not carb fuel filters.


Thank you Ted!
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#36 brapattack

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 07:14 PM

So did you just live with it Bleach?  Seems like if you're conscious of it its easy to blip the throttle a bit on the way down but it would be nice to have it working correctly.

 

I replaced the fuel filter but I don't know if its EFI specific.  I haven't tried watching the fuel pressure regulator as I rev and release, that might let me know if the pressure is really dropping.

 

If I get any good advice form the z car man, I will pass it along.



#37 CGraves

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 10:47 PM

I gotta say I have a lot of respect for you homie.

If I had to deal with all this stuff so far I would've thrown in the towel and bought a new swap a lot time ago.

#38 brapattack

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 07:31 AM

Once I found the mystery debris in the oil pan, I really wanted to throw in the towel...and then later get an rb25det to swap in but I had already spent so much time and $ on parts for this motor that, I have to make it work for now.  Hoping this motor will be good for a while, at least until I can afford the $ for a different motor and the time to actually swap it.



#39 Bleach

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 07:59 AM

I would blip the throttle but it sure was annoying. The NA L28 never did that crap.


Thank you Ted!
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#40 Slowpoke

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 08:04 AM

What fuel pump are you using?