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"project truck" value in your area?


distributorguy

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I found a CL 620 locally, and I think its priced high, but wondering what they sell for in your area.  

This one is a  '77, front clip is torn apart, does not run, flat tires, claims no rust but I can see rust on the fenders sitting in the box.  That means the driver's floor probably has a big hole in it.  $700.  

Would any of you pay that for a truck that's black primer over yellow, does not run, automatic transmission?  I suspect it had drum brakes, wheels are plain stock steel.  No apparent aftermarket goodies.  

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Given that it'll cost me $60 in fuel to go get it and haul it home,  I guess I'd be willing to pay  $400-500 for it.  Depending on if the brakes are frozen, if the tires hold air, if the motor is seized, etc...   I paid $300 for the last junker and $1100 for the last good one, but it came with alloy wheels, new tires, tons of new dealer-bought parts including door skins, door panels, rocker panels, a fully assembled new dashboard, etc...  

 

Yes, shipping from WA is more like $1000 on the cheap end, in an open truck prone to bad weather, body damage, and potentially theft.  An enclosed truck, on some kind of meaningful time table, more like $1300-1400.  

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It's worth scrap prices... whatever 2,600 pounds is worth. Here's why....

 

Can't be driven or even started, so all you can do is look at, but not assess...

the brakes

the suspension

the steering

the electrical

 

Engine... does it restart when hot, does it blow smoke, compression, rod knock, seized?,

Transmission... does it shift, all gears there, noises?

Differential... broken, noisy?

Driveshaft ... vibration, U joints work?

 

 

Now if you have a 620 already, this one might be worth more than scrap in spare or needed parts, but none of the parts listed above because you don't know if they are any good or not. All you have is what you can see, like the bed, the glass, seats, tail lights grill etc... At best it is a parts truck.

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I need the body, and I'll bring a good battery to see if lights and such work.  Bad electrical means $200 truck, as nothing is probably any good.  Since I have a good interior, lots of driveline parts including a full 5 speed setup, good wheels and tires, but a bad cab, it can help me connect the dots.  Plus it has an original grille that I want for the race truck.  I have 3 good aftermarket grilles.  I hadn't considered the diff could be bad.  I need the diff to be good.  I'm not in a rush to get there.  He's firm at $700 for now.  Silly.  I can buy 3 running and driving hardbodies locally for that.  But if the cab is rust free and good... this is MN.   Land of salt and corrosion.  Is supposedly an Oklahoma truck.  ???

 

No smog inspections here.  No cat required, no visual, no sniffer.  

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In my area there is a 620 that's been on Craigslist for a few weeks in the same condition with a asking price of $300.

 

If you want just the body and it's straight, no rust that has to be worth $300. Now that auto tranny, if it's good, could be worth another $300 by it's self. Not to many auto 620's that I've seen still driving and it would be worth something to someone.

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The automatic JATCO 3N71B is pretty much a universal transmission used on all the L20B 610/710/620/S10/A10 and more. I have three laying around in storage.

 

Itemize what you need and estimate a value of what it's worth to you. Be critical and honest about how much you really need and how well these parts will fill that need.

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I found a CL 620 locally, and I think its priced high, but wondering what they sell for in your area.  

This one is a  '77, front clip is torn apart, does not run, flat tires, claims no rust but I can see rust on the fenders sitting in the box.  That means the driver's floor probably has a big hole in it.  $700.  

Would any of you pay that for a truck that's black primer over yellow, does not run, automatic transmission?  I suspect it had drum brakes, wheels are plain stock steel.  No apparent aftermarket goodies.  

Sounds like a country song.

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