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#41 Slowpoke

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 04:50 AM

Looks legit. Good job.



#42 Bleach

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 07:51 AM

Man, that is awesome! good job.

 

What were some of the last things you did to get it running?

 

Funny thing is, I'm currently unable to get my 280ZX turbo running and right now I even left the engine in the original car. (parts car) No fuel, and possibly no spark. Really strange.

 

When your ignition is on but the car is not running, do you get 6v at the two plugs on the coil or do you have 12v ? Mine only has 6 which I thought was strange.


Thank you Ted!
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#43 logan66

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 08:58 AM

Thanks! The very last thing I did was change out the fuel pump for a walbro 255 pump. Before that with the 40 year old stock fuel pump I could get the car to turnover but wouldn't idle. I had to hit it with a hammer a few times to get it to work so I knew it was about shot., I also had to plug up all the vacuum leaks on the intake. It's currently with duct tape so I'll need to do something a little less haggard later on haha. Are you taking about the the plug to the ignitor by the coil? I'll have to check when I go home this weekend, when I was doing all the wiring I was just using a test light but I'll look and see what I find.

#44 Bleach

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 08:41 AM

I didn't hear the fuel pump at all, so I replaced it with a Walbro. Still no pump noise and after all this cranking, the spark plugs are dry and still look new. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but its safe to say no fuel is getting up there. I also put in a new fuel filter before even attempting a first start.
(drained the tank and put in 2 gallons fresh)

 

I'm talking about the two main terminals on the coil. They have small nuts that hold the wires down. Black is power, green is ground.

 

I'm collecting some ideas on what to troubleshoot next. I have to travel a distance to go work on the car so once I'm there, no time to get parts or tools that I didn't already bring.


Thank you Ted!
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#45 logan66

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 09:51 AM

Well ran into trouble again lol I had my tach wire from the negative side of the coil setting o. The valve cover when I started the car this morning because I was going to solder the wire to the tach wire. So long story short I shorted the coil and it got super hot, now the car idles at like 1200 to 1100 rpm and idk what it could be. I switched the coil which I didn't think would change anything g and it didn't. I'm worried that it could of messed with the ignitor or ecu since the positive post is connected to both of them. Other than that I made a bracket for the afm and got a pod filter for it. I thought maybe the afm was touching the metal brackets and grounded it?? I took the brackets off and the idle dropped from about 1500 to where it is now. If anyone has any thoughts on what it could be because I have no idea what else to look for or try next. Thanks

#46 logan66

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 10:02 AM

I guess I should also mention I shortened the charge pipe quite a bit between the turbo and afm. Idk if that would have any effect on anything

#47 logan66

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 01:54 PM

idk what i did but its back to the normal idle  :confused:  so whatever i guess.



#48 CGraves

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 06:57 PM

The pipe between the turbo and MAF should usually be around 6 inches. The reason it has to be long like that is because it prevents turbulent air from the turbo hitting the MAF again. Obviously that wouldn't affect your problem but just figured I'd throw it out there.



#49 Bleach

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 06:33 PM

The pipe between the turbo and MAF should usually be around 6 inches.

It sounds like you're saying that the pipe between the two items should be at least 6 inches at a minimum, right? It could be longer and still function properly.

 

The same goes for the later Z with a MAS. The pipe between the throttle and the MAS should be at least 12 inches long so that the airflow seen by the MAS is a steady velocity.


Thank you Ted!
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I wished I lived in the golden age; giving it up on the broadway stage
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#50 CGraves

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 10:10 PM

@Bleach

 

Yeah the minimum distance recommended is 6 inches. It can be way longer if you want it to be. I'm not sure how long the L28ET is but I know the pipe between the MAF and turbo on the RB25 is like 10-12 inches long.



#51 logan66

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 06:37 PM

I'd say I'm right around 6 inches maybe a little longer with the bend in the stock pipe. My airflow meter sites right next to where the ax comprossor would be from a bracket I made to bolt in where it would be. I think I figured it out though. The plug for the MAS was really worn out and didn't lock into the sensor like it should so I soldered the one from my 77 in on it and I started it up 3 times with a good idle so that was good enough for me. Atleast not to give me headaches worrying about it throughout the week.