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#41 Slowpoke

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 04:50 AM

Looks legit. Good job.



#42 Bleach

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 07:51 AM

Man, that is awesome! good job.

 

What were some of the last things you did to get it running?

 

Funny thing is, I'm currently unable to get my 280ZX turbo running and right now I even left the engine in the original car. (parts car) No fuel, and possibly no spark. Really strange.

 

When your ignition is on but the car is not running, do you get 6v at the two plugs on the coil or do you have 12v ? Mine only has 6 which I thought was strange.


Thank you Ted!
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#43 logan66

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 08:58 AM

Thanks! The very last thing I did was change out the fuel pump for a walbro 255 pump. Before that with the 40 year old stock fuel pump I could get the car to turnover but wouldn't idle. I had to hit it with a hammer a few times to get it to work so I knew it was about shot., I also had to plug up all the vacuum leaks on the intake. It's currently with duct tape so I'll need to do something a little less haggard later on haha. Are you taking about the the plug to the ignitor by the coil? I'll have to check when I go home this weekend, when I was doing all the wiring I was just using a test light but I'll look and see what I find.

#44 Bleach

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 08:41 AM

I didn't hear the fuel pump at all, so I replaced it with a Walbro. Still no pump noise and after all this cranking, the spark plugs are dry and still look new. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but its safe to say no fuel is getting up there. I also put in a new fuel filter before even attempting a first start.
(drained the tank and put in 2 gallons fresh)

 

I'm talking about the two main terminals on the coil. They have small nuts that hold the wires down. Black is power, green is ground.

 

I'm collecting some ideas on what to troubleshoot next. I have to travel a distance to go work on the car so once I'm there, no time to get parts or tools that I didn't already bring.


Thank you Ted!
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#45 logan66

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 09:51 AM

Well ran into trouble again lol I had my tach wire from the negative side of the coil setting o. The valve cover when I started the car this morning because I was going to solder the wire to the tach wire. So long story short I shorted the coil and it got super hot, now the car idles at like 1200 to 1100 rpm and idk what it could be. I switched the coil which I didn't think would change anything g and it didn't. I'm worried that it could of messed with the ignitor or ecu since the positive post is connected to both of them. Other than that I made a bracket for the afm and got a pod filter for it. I thought maybe the afm was touching the metal brackets and grounded it?? I took the brackets off and the idle dropped from about 1500 to where it is now. If anyone has any thoughts on what it could be because I have no idea what else to look for or try next. Thanks

#46 logan66

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 10:02 AM

I guess I should also mention I shortened the charge pipe quite a bit between the turbo and afm. Idk if that would have any effect on anything

#47 logan66

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 01:54 PM

idk what i did but its back to the normal idle  :confused:  so whatever i guess.



#48 CGraves

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 06:57 PM

The pipe between the turbo and MAF should usually be around 6 inches. The reason it has to be long like that is because it prevents turbulent air from the turbo hitting the MAF again. Obviously that wouldn't affect your problem but just figured I'd throw it out there.



#49 Bleach

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 06:33 PM

The pipe between the turbo and MAF should usually be around 6 inches.

It sounds like you're saying that the pipe between the two items should be at least 6 inches at a minimum, right? It could be longer and still function properly.

 

The same goes for the later Z with a MAS. The pipe between the throttle and the MAS should be at least 12 inches long so that the airflow seen by the MAS is a steady velocity.


Thank you Ted!
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#50 CGraves

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 10:10 PM

@Bleach

 

Yeah the minimum distance recommended is 6 inches. It can be way longer if you want it to be. I'm not sure how long the L28ET is but I know the pipe between the MAF and turbo on the RB25 is like 10-12 inches long.



#51 logan66

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 06:37 PM

I'd say I'm right around 6 inches maybe a little longer with the bend in the stock pipe. My airflow meter sites right next to where the ax comprossor would be from a bracket I made to bolt in where it would be. I think I figured it out though. The plug for the MAS was really worn out and didn't lock into the sensor like it should so I soldered the one from my 77 in on it and I started it up 3 times with a good idle so that was good enough for me. Atleast not to give me headaches worrying about it throughout the week.

#52 logan66

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 07:01 PM

well the 1200 to 1500 rpm idle is back.  I have run out of ideas of what it could be.  I know i dont have any vacuum leaks, other than what i posted before nothing else changed except i forgot i put the msa downpipe on.  I check the o2 sensor was plugged in correctly so that shouldnt have anything to do with it.  would me shoriting out the coil have anything to do with it?? maybe with the transistor on the bracket or something else?  To me that doesnt seem like that stuff would effect the idle but im not sure.  Ive been reading online and have seen some stuff about the tps sensor, but i havent messed with that either.  It doesnt make sense to me why its so unpredictable.  sometimes it idles fine and other times it doenst but i dont change anything.  Im at a loss for what to do next so if anyone has any idea at all i will try it but for now i haven't found anything online that has fixed it.  I have continued working on the rest of the car, got the brake and clutch bleed ( after having to put on a new clutch MC from hours of failed bleeding)  and i also got these in the mail last week and got them mounted.

 

 

wheels2_zpseysfuylz.jpeg

 

wheels_zps9tnaogjz.jpeg

 

Needs lowered and flares put on, i have the flares and hopfully can get my fenders back on and seats put in the car and drive it soon..... but i really hope to get this stupid idle figured out before that.



#53 CGraves

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 07:34 PM

Have you checked all the couplers on your intercooler pipes? I've seen them rip in a way that sometime they overlap and seal the gap but sometimes boost would push it open again and when the rubber laid down again it wouldn't seal correctly. I'd pressure test your system and see if you've got a loose coupler somewhere.



#54 logan66

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:05 AM

I don't have an intercooler, I still have the stock j pipe. I'll check all the connections to that though.

#55 logan66

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:36 PM

Well, i gave up on the idle for now. I've been reading some stuff about adjusting it with the idle stop screw but need to look more into it.  Anyways I took out most of my interior and installed MSA's molded carpet kit.  It turned out alright beings its the first time I've ever done anything like that.  It's not completely buttoned down yet but close.  I put my old seats in and honestly I kind of like them with the cream colored door panels.  I just wish they weren't so disgusting haha.  I'm going to try and clean them up next weekend.  Here's some oics.  It looks 100x better now and almost like a real car again.

 

interior2_zps7waekpro.jpeg

 

interior_zpsnpbad72e.jpeg

 

And about twenty minutes later I took it out for a short spin.  I almost don't want to put the fenders back on because it looks like a car out of mad max with the black front end.  Maybe it's just me that thinks that but it's one of my favorite movies.  It was crazy finally getting this car off my dads lift without pushing it.  I've also never driven a turbocharged car but just after a little half block drive I think I'm already addicted to boost.  Anyway here's a video of me driving it really quick.  ( You can also here the high idle at the end of the vid, but honestly I'm so happy to be driving this thing I could care less about it right now.)

 



#56 Slowpoke

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:53 AM

Good shit man!



#57 logan66

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 08:32 AM

Thanks!

#58 logan66

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 03:30 PM

Well, fixed the idle. Not really the way i wanted to but it was the last option I had.  After checking all vaccum lines and found no leaks I went with a ball valve idea I found from rickyellow zee on hybrids forum.  I just bought a barbed ball valve from home depot for 10 bucks, took off the air regulator and put in the valve and it works perfect! I can set the idlle to whatever I want now.  I have a feeling it might be running rich since i metered the air way down from what it was and I'm assuming its getting the same amount of fuel but maybe my thought process on that is flawed but idk I'm happy with it and the brass valve doesnt look too bad! (after i cut off the humongous orange handle.)

 

ball%20vlave_zpssdmsv7qa.jpeg

 

Then I worked out a trade for an intercooler and piping for my old n/a l28 with the guy I got the turbo motor from.  I probably wont put it on right away because I want to drive the car for now.  Im working on getting tags/insurance/ and inspected because its an out of state vehicle.

intercooler_zps0edm7vfp.jpeg

 

greddybov_zps0ddoqdhb.jpeg

 

anddd here's some more pics of the car.  I take pictures of it all the time now :rofl: I'm a little obsessed haha

 

newhome_zpslds40t0g.jpeg

 

sideview_zps2wkblew8.jpeg

 



#59 Bleach

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 08:58 PM

That is a good idea. That valve you removed usually runs the idle high when the engine is cold and then closes to drop the idle down to normal levels. So for now you won't have that option but the car can still be used. I think its more important to have consistency when the engine is warmed up as you also know.


Thank you Ted!
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#60 logan66

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 09:10 AM

Yeah for now it works. Easy to adjust quickly with no hood on