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Progress on 85 720 4x4 (Merged threads)


la_leo

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I don't know how much nissan charges to pUT on a power steering hose. But it isn't enough! !!!! I cannot get the dang threads started on the gearbox. I'll have to get a second person to help position it just so, seemingly impossible by yourself

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There was a rubber lime coming off the front chunk just hanging. There is a hard line on the frAme underneath the radiator. The line had nothing attached to it. I assume it's a vacuum hard line. Since I couldn't see any other the the hose hooked too, I attached it to the metal hard line. Any body able to confirm this? Also on the rear axle there is a vent tube on the top on the driver's side. Looks like a vacuum hose goes on it but there is no hose there.

 

The differentials get HOT. I mean so hot you can't hold your hand on them. The air inside expands so there is a vent. IF you were to drive into cool or cold water or mud the air inside would contract and suck in water and dirt so the hose is mounted high on the frame to prevent this.

 

 

DOES THIS LOOK CORRECTLY INSTALLED? 20161229_151712_zpsmbwqa4o4.jpg

 

It's facing the correct direction with the spring inside the manifold. Usually, but not always, there is a top position marked. If it has a 'jiggle' valve it must be to the top.

 

0996b43f8020659b.gif

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Ok so it took the skill of the best damn toyota and small truck mechanic I know, aka my brother, to get the power steering line threaded on. 5 minutes and it was done. ThanKS for the info mike it has a jiggle valve, no idea if I put it on top. Seems like re installing the outlet sealed it up. Plus my temp guage started Working. I used superclean and a pressure washer on thef rame. Then rustoleum rust reformer. Then the rust oelum professional undercoating. Probably will hold up for a couple years

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Ok I'm going to try and explain this as best I can. After much trial and error turns out the ac delco power steering hose, part # 36-369650, is the correct hose. Some bending was required, but the end that goes into the gear box has the right fitting. HOWEVER, the end that goes onto the pump has the wrong threads on the new fitting. We discovered this by taking the old hose fitting and making sure the threads were not damaged on the pump. Went on fine. We removed the connector from the pump. The threads on the big part that holds in the plunger that goes on the bottom of the pump has the same threads as the new hose fitting for some reason. So what I plan on is having the machine shop cut new threads on the old fitting. See picture below. So the new fitting on the new hose matches the threads of the part that goes into the pump, but does not match the threads on the outlet. I'm going to have the outlet threads cut to match the new hose fitting

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So the pedal is great. The clutch fork is going in. But I have a new problem. The clutch won't disengage. I'm assuming it's rusted up. I can put the truck in 1st or reverse with the engine off, then crank it and it will lurch forward or back ward in gear. But with the truck running in neutral the clutch will not disengage. Will not go in any gear. Again, the clutch fork moves and I now have a good pedal. Are there any solutions to free the clutch?

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I have had this issue occur twice, once each on two different vehicles, after installing a new clutch. I still don't understand the cause.

 

If all the hydraulics check out, try starting the truck while in first. Depress the clutch while trying, but already have it first. If you can get it started, go drive it around for 10 minutes, even if that's circles in a parking lot. Then try shifting with the clutch.

 

Twice I've had that free something up and those clutches never had another problem.

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  What's the clutch damper do? If it goes bad what are the symptoms?

 

A very good question. I think it softens the engagement of the 240mm clutch. Most 720 owners think the Nissan engineers just added it for more frustration when bleeding the clutch.... and if there is any chance it's a problem, they just remove it. It works fine without it.

 

 

 

Possible clutch disc stuck to PP or flywheel....

 

Place in 5th, set e brake and hold foot brake on. Step clutch pedal down and hold. Turn ignition key and bump starter. Just bumps, don't hold for more than a half second. After 10 tries, if it hasn't freed, try the other method.

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no good on trying to trying to get the clutch freed up. First i tried bumping the starter in gear. Then i started the truck in first in gear with the clutch pedal in. And in reverse. No good. THEN i jacked up the rear end, got the wheels spinning in gear and had my dear old dad drop the Jack and still nothing. Tried this a few times in different gears and the clutch will not release. I pulled it under my carport for the night. Is a automotive lift required to pull the clutch out? I'm sure trying this on the ground is more effort than I'm willing to do. My next thought is to go ahead and order a new clutch kit. Any recommendations on a good oem style clutch? One more thing. 1st through 4th gear and reverse work well. But 5th gear..... The shift goes into 5th and holds. But there's nothing there.i can even put the truck in 5th and crank the truck. And it's like it's in neutral.

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Does it make noise in the transmission area while in neutral while idling?

5th should work unless something is broken, why did they say it was parked?

 

. No noise at all very quiet. The guy just said 5th didn't work. He's not mechanically inclined
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