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Progress on 85 720 4x4 (Merged threads)


la_leo

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TODAY I'm flushing the coOling system. I jumped the fuel pump directly to a battery and it works great. Have to trace wires now. Motor idles great but I have to say it's louder than I expected. Almost sounds like a little diesel (see video). I'll sAY this too. It went through two gallons in about 15 minutes. Maybe it's something to do with running off a gas can and not the tank I don't know. I also couldn't get the temperature guage much above the cold mark. I'll check the temp sending unit. One last thing what should the oil pressure guage be reading? It seems high to me, shouldn't it be in the middle at idle?

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Does not sound to bad for a $200 truck. Congrats!  Pretty big grin on your face if that is you in the picture.

 

Do you have to run the truck through emissions where you live?

 

I have to emmissions test mine every 2 years and have passed easily running a Weber 23/36 carb.  The emissions people always check for vacuum to my egr and then dyno it through the opertaion test and it blows clean every time.  It has 420,000 on the engine.

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That's incredible on the motor. My 90 yota had 320 k before it needed a rebuild. Thats my jackass friend but I was definitely grinning when I cranked it up! The fuel pump has a problem at the factory connection at the pump itself, that was the issue. No emmissions here! We used to get inspection stickers from an older guy and you just signed for them no inspection needed lol. He's since passed poor fella.

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New issues. There's a power steering pressure hard line that has a pinhole in it. It runs along the frame on the passenger side toward the front of the truck. For whatever reason there's one on amazon ac delco brand for 14 bucks. 91546 part number. I'll order it now. Fuel pump is still running good. All my electrics are hit and miss. The gauges need to be tapped to work. The blinkers and headlights, you have to bump the relays. Might order a new fuse block and relays.

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Corrosion builds up on those fuse blocks in our 720s. I have had my dash lights stop working because there was so much corrosion it wouldn't conduct at all even though the fuse was just fine. Try removing and reinstalling each fuse and relay 10-15 times. This will hopefully clean the contacts and fix the issue. You could also fill a gallon Ziploc partway with vinegar and hang your fuse block in the vinegar over night. The vinegar will dissolve the corrosion. Just be sure to disconnect the battery until everything is 100% dry.

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Here's a fun fact. A spinning fan blade WILL split open your fingernail and hurt like a bitch! !!!

 

 

Having experienced a near miss in that situation, I grew a deeper appreciation for my fan shroud and replaced my broken down original with a nice wrecking yard replacement. I figure that if the fan gets me when the shroud is on there, well that is on me. Does‘t make it hurt less though...

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I looked inside the clutch master cylinder reservoir and there's this black sludge that used to be brake fluid. Or whatever nissan called for. I was going to get a rebuild kit for 7 dollar but hell, a beck Arnley is 20 buccks and a centric is 15. Anyone use either one?

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I looked inside the clutch master cylinder reservoir and there's this black sludge that used to be brake fluid. Or whatever nissan called for. I was going to get a rebuild kit for 7 dollar but hell, a beck Arnley is 20 buccks and a centric is 15. Anyone use either one?

I just replaced my master, slave, and clutch. The slave I ordered off of Amazon, and the master I got at O'Reilly. I would be concerned with any sludge in the hard lines and the soft lines going to the slave... I'm not sure how you would go about cleaning that.  :confused:

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That's what I was thinking. Air hose maybe? There's a place in town that makes custom hydraulic lines. I read in the fsm that a flare nut wrench is required for the hoses. I don't have a set so I'll get one. No idea what size they are, prob 12mm. I got beck Arnley slave and master cylinders off rock auto for like 35 bucks after shippING.

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