d.p Posted July 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) Ring gear teeth chewed up on the flywheel. Does this shit need to be replaced ? What would cause this other than the starter? OR would th flywheel teeth cause the starter not to work right as its not catching? I guess what I am wondering is whether my starter is bad or my flywheel or both?? Edited July 16, 2018 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 16, 2018 Report Share Posted July 16, 2018 Looks like normal wear. If the starter does not get the full battery power the solenoid can chatter and the starter engage and disengage repeatedly. I saying clean and tighten the cables and check the battery charge first. Borrow a battery or jumper cable from a known good battery to eliminate yours as the cause. Eliminate all the easy simple and likely things first. Yes... it might be the starter. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2018 Ok cleaning all terminals, will test starter and see what happens. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2018 Tested my starter (battery cables and large screwdriver) and its hit or miss. It spins, but doesn't always slide over, sometimes it would slide over and slide right back and other times it would slide over and stay there. Sometimes it wouldn't slid at all. I just went ahead and ordered a new starter. But so I understand how a starter works should the pinion gear slide over and stay there until the car starts? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 16, 2018 Report Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) The pinion is on a helical shaft with a real steep pitch. When you hit the starter, the pinion slings out to end of the shaft where it engages the teeth on the flywheel. Once the engine is running and you let off of the start position, the pinion should ride back down into it's sheath. It's a lot like sex. ? Modern day starters usually have an electronic actuator that pushes the pinion outwards, but old starters use the helical shaft. Edited July 16, 2018 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) Replaced the starter and went to try install disc brakes using beebani's kit but ran into a problem with the stock rear line. It wouldn't break loose from the tee so I had to cut it and tried to re-flare it on the truck using that stupid rental flaring tool from autozone which was a complete fail. Just wouldn't flare it straight no matter what I did and would leak like a siv. At this point guess I am going to just buy an eastwood hand held flare tool to get this buttoned up. Looking at this tool: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrbKZka-z3AIVDVgNCh06wQ4lEAYYASABEgJ9tvD_BwE Unless someone has another idea? I don't even want to tray and remove/disconnect a section of the rear hard line to how much trouble I had with all the other stock shit. I would prefer to just reflare the existing line, use a union and run a new line to the new master. Oh and one of the calipers leaks fluid from the rubber side, anyone just double up on crush washers to fix that? Edited July 22, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 On 7/16/2018 at 8:48 AM, d.p said: Tested my starter (battery cables and large screwdriver) and its hit or miss. It spins, but doesn't always slide over, sometimes it would slide over and slide right back and other times it would slide over and stay there. Sometimes it wouldn't slid at all. I just went ahead and ordered a new starter. But so I understand how a starter works should the pinion gear slide over and stay there until the car starts? On 7/16/2018 at 11:26 AM, mainer311 said: The pinion is on a helical shaft with a real steep pitch. When you hit the starter, the pinion slings out to end of the shaft where it engages the teeth on the flywheel. Once the engine is running and you let off of the start position, the pinion should ride back down into it's sheath. It's a lot like sex. ? Modern day starters usually have an electronic actuator that pushes the pinion outwards, but old starters use the helical shaft. L series starters all only use a solenoid to extend the starter gear onto the starter ring. If the starter spins but does not engage the engine, it's (usually) the replaceable solenoid. The solenoid, also when moving, forces the two contacts together connecting the battery cable to the starter windings. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Well its not the union that is leaking so maybe the flare tool did the job. Its my new 10mm 3 way tee that is leaking. Thought it maybe was the line so I replaced that but it leaked even with a brand new line to no avail. https://www.ebay.com/itm/391976993244 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 5 minutes ago, d.p said: Well its not the union that is leaking so maybe the flare tool did the job. Its my new 10mm 3 way tee that is leaking. Thought it maybe was the line so I replaced that but it leaked even with a brand new line to no avail. https://www.ebay.com/itm/391976993244 That tee is bubble flare .... what type of flare did you do? Are the new lines using a bubble flare or inverted flare? I don't know how much that matters or not or if they can be interchanged or not... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 I have a Ridgid flaring kit that I really like, however it’s clunky and difficult to use on lines that are already in place (i.e. tight spaces). 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) I think my rear is ok just need to deal with the leaks at the tee and the calipers. I assume I am just using all the wrong fittings so I will just start over and make everything. Can someone recommend a solid flaring tool? Price not an issue, I just want something that works and is easy. I assume I would also need metric fittings as well (bubble and ISO)? I had bought hard lines from pep boys but those are all standard fittings which I guess do me no good? Using 88 d21 calipers and rubber lines but using a metric bubble tee. https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=Cb62d9103-162f-410f-bf91-0142160e170c%2C1 Edited July 22, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 I've flared old brake lines and it was shit. Maybe just being old and rusty is the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 I’d ditch the bubble tee and get an inverted flare tee instead. Only reason is that absolutely everything else is 3/8-24 inverted flare. Unfortunately the D21 stuff is M10x1.0, but it’s still inverted flare. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 The Ridgid kit that I have is model: 345-DL. It does single and double flares. I put a drop of oil onto the little double flare insert and it seems to help form the flare better. Works with 3/16” lines and up. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) Yeah that is like the one I rented which was a POS from autzone. You have trouble keeping the dies in place? Parts store didn't have any inverted metric tees and didn't have any luck finding one online. I agree ditching the bubble tee would be easier than having to re flare everything. Anyone know the size of the stock mounting hole for the tee? At this point I am going to bubble flare on the ends to the tee and inverted on the MC/Caliper sides. Edited July 23, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Same place you bought the other one... I think I used the bubble flare tee because I couldn't get the Japanese lines with the m10 inverted flare locally... they seemed to only have the euro bubble flare m10 .... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) Ahh shit lol. Thanks crash. Edited July 23, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 I would make sure you can get the brake lines you need first and then decide what to do.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I would make sure you can get the brake lines you need first and then decide what to do.... Good point...but if I can get metric w/inverted flare hard lines and a inverted flare tee I wouldn't need to flare anything. I could just bend and be done with it. Inverted metric hard lines: https://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/import-lines-japanese-poly-armour/ Euro - bubble Jap - inverted Just like you were saying yesterday. Edited July 23, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Yup those will work.... I think my problem was trying to buy locally.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Yeah I might have that same problem but I got enough parts and tools coming my way that I will make it work one way or the other. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 23, 2018 Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 On another forum, I saw this brake line mentioned with good reviews. Disclaimer, I have not used it. https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1?Ns=P_Margin|0||P_SKU|0 Here is a page for brake line flaring tools from Eastwood. I have not used any Eastwood flaring tools. https://search.eastwood.com/search?w=double flare brake line tool I have a "39.99" brake line flaring tool, but would not recommend it. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 I bought this one from Amazon, although not even sure I will need it at this point: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HOXH242/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 24, 2018 Report Share Posted July 24, 2018 (edited) Yes, the Ridgid tool “looks” like the cheapo from Autozone, but I assure you, it is not. I have one of the cheap ones that I bought, and regret doing so. They work in the same manner, but the quality and finished result is substantially better. I use Ni-Copp lines for my cars and it works great. I use the smallest pipe cutter available to cut the line, and then the trick to getting a good flare is to first file the top of the cut line perfectly flat and perpendicular. Edited July 24, 2018 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 24, 2018 Report Share Posted July 24, 2018 (edited) I believe the Datsun lines are a 37 degree double inverted flare as appossed to the more standard 45 degree double inverted flare. Edited July 25, 2018 by Charlie69 Quote Link to comment
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