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My 1971 521


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#21 hobospyder

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 04:37 PM

request lock or possibly have a mod merge the threads to keep history?. they don't delete them around here


Lol you really think he would tell anyone, ahh yes Mr. Peterson I was taken a piss and everything got dark like there was an eclipse, when I look back to see what was making the shade when WHAM!! Cock hit me right in the face. I don't know whose it was but we could match up the bruise.

 

 

 

you assume i have any fucks

 

 

 

 

 


#22 DanielC

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 04:54 PM

A few useful diagrams for you.  First a general wiring diagram.

521wires.jpg

Here is a lights only diagram.

LightWires.jpg

 

What year is the build date on your 521?   Some electrical system changes were made from the early 521 trucks, to the later ones.

all 521 trucks I have seen had a six fuse fuse block.  Earlier 521 trucks had three always hot fuses, later ones had four always hot fuses.  The other fuses got power through the ignition switch.  Three hot fuse trucks had headlights, tail lights, and all other lights on one fuse.  Four always hot fuse trucks separated out the headlights on their own fuse.  Dash board, or instrument panel lights are on the same fuse as the tail lights.

 

There are four wires under the ashtray, there wires are for the stock radio.  I think the cigarette lighter wire comes out of the wiring harness near there, also.  The cigarette lighter wire is always hot.

 

The dome light wire is always hot.  The switch on the dome light grounds the light, making it come on.

 

The stock fuse box is barely adequate for a stock 521, with no added electrical accessories.  Use an added fuse block for anything else, including the fog lights.

 

A simple modification you can do to ease the electrical load on the stock fuse is to add an extra cube relay by the stock headlight relay.  You use the red with a yellow stripe wire to trigger the coil on the added relay.  The added relay gets fused headlight power directly from the battery.

Pin 86 on new relay, gets the red with a yellow stripe wire from the stock headlight relay.

Pin 85 on the new relay gets grounded.

Pin 30 on the new relay gets fused battery power.  Use at least 12 gauge wire for this.

Pin 87 on the new relay goes to the pin you pulled the red with a yellow stripe wire off the original headlight relay.  12 gauge wire here also.



#23 datzenmike

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 05:39 PM

Bought it and I am pumped!  Guess this truck was on here in a past life, owned by Patd: http://community.rat...ser/4071-patd/ , sold to dubdlux and now owned by me.  What goes around comes around I guess.  

 

Some questions..

1. If I re-index do I need blocks in the rear too?

2. 6 chevy blazer rally wheels fit on a 521?  15x8 but no idea on the offsets.  

 

I assume that you want the truck to sit level? If the front goes down the back should try to match it. You only need to index the torsion bars if you run out of adjustment. You will be setting the height you want so set the front and figure out how much to lower the rear and add blocks. Unlikely it will be exactly level the way you want it so adjust the front to match. Take note that extreme lowering will put the rear frame down on the axle and fuck the ride. Same with the front.

 

Six bolt chevy rims have the same bolt pattern. If raising the ride I'd say go for it. Lowering you'd better make sure the rims are inside the fenders.


Posted Image

#24 thisismatt

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 07:30 PM

Looks nice.  Love the color


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#25 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 05:33 AM

Thanks dubdlux, I used a pry bar to get them off but still managed to jam the shit out of my index finger.  

 

I don't know the build date, where can I find that? Got a link to the cube relay?  I can do that no problem just need to know what to buy.

 

I really want to get that cigarette lighter working and whats odd is that the black wire in the picture below is hanging down from dash in my truck, its not connected to the back of the lighter like the picture shows.    

 

cin01.jpg

 

 

22846956538_5576a76cc6_z.jpg



#26 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 06:14 AM

Can someone merge my two threads?  Would prefer to keep the other one.  

 

Not looking to slam it, just lower it and get some wheels flush with the fenders.  Stock sits so far inside it should be illegal.  



#27 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 06:49 AM

I think  just lower it with the stock wheels as it will get the tire to the rim within reason using 3 inch algle blocks( Belltech 2602) in back and just turin the torsion bar screws out.

 

If you put the chevy ralley on there with 50 series you need to go lower to get the tire top near  to close to flush with the fender. then you have to get bigger blocks and reindex the torsion bar then other issues make proplems for a daily driver , to me is not worth it.


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#28 thisismatt

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 06:59 AM

Thanks dubdlux, I used a pry bar to get them off but still managed to jam the shit out of my index finger.

I don't know the build date, where can I find that? Got a link to the cube relay? I can do that no problem just need to know what to buy.

I really want to get that cigarette lighter working and whats odd is that the black wire in the picture below is hanging down from dash in my truck, its not connected to the back of the lighter like the picture shows.

cin01.jpg


22846956538_5576a76cc6_z.jpg

That's correct. The second pic is not correct for a 521.
I'm your huckleberry.

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That's all, and that's no joke
These guys don't appreciate I'm broke

#29 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 07:10 AM

That's correct. The second pic is not correct for a 521.

 

What is correct?  I assume I need to find the LgR wire and source the correct lighter for the truck?  Took a look and there are more wires tucked up  behind it and one that looks like it connects to the lighter (#1 in the pic below). 2 is the antenna but no idea what 3,4 and 5 go to. 

 

30992416886_7a4417e38b_z.jpg

 

I think  just lower it with the stock wheels as it will get the tire to the rim within reason using 3 inch algle blocks( Belltech 2602) in back and just turin the torsion bar screws out.

 

If you put the chevy ralley on there with 50 series you need to go lower to get the tire top near  to close to flush with the fender. then you have to get bigger blocks and reindex the torsion bar then other issues make proplems for a daily driver , to me is not worth it.

 

Belltech 2602 is the part number for the blocks?  Google didn't return anything for them.  And I will lower it with the stock wheels because that's all I got right now, have a lead on some rallye wheels but they are a little far from me.  



#30 DanielC

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 07:26 AM

You can use the KC3300 relay from summit racing.

Check for 12 volts on the female bullet connector hanging down by the cigarette lighter.  Many Datsun 521 wires have a black plastic sleeve over the actual wire.

 

The build date is on a tag, on the drivers side door frame, toward the back of the cab.



#31 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:00 AM

You can use the KC3300 relay from summit racing.

Check for 12 volts on the female bullet connector hanging down by the cigarette lighter.  Many Datsun 521 wires have a black plastic sleeve over the actual wire.

 

The build date is on a tag, on the drivers side door frame, toward the back of the cab.

 

This it?  https://www.amazon.c...y/dp/B0002MAE0M Got a pic of it installed in your truck?  

 

Bullet connector has 12 volts with the truck on so that's probably it? Build date is 11/70.   

 

I need the plastic switch for the heater and a replacement side mirror, or just the mirror but not sure I can source that.  Anyone have a lead on either?

 

30727354160_9e6ffe6acf_m.jpg

 

31029342575_425e2cc875_m.jpg



#32 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:13 AM

the cig lighter is the black wire I believe. Its on the Common circut meaning  Its has 12volts all the time.  When you push the cig plunger in it shorts thus heating the element.  Common circut on Datsuns means the cig lighter dome light and door buzzer most of the time.

 

 12volt with key ON is for radio or heater or soemthing else depending on the size of the wire.

 

 

thos eblack box relays you can get anywhere. most are made in China  but you can go to the Junk yard in the ignition elelctrical box are full of them. Gfind the Jap or German made one and stack them up!!!!!!!!!!!!


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Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#33 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:23 AM

the cig lighter is the black wire I believe. Its on the Common circut meaning  Its has 12volts all the time.  When you push the cig plunger in it shorts thus heating the element.  Common circut on Datsuns means the cig lighter dome light and door buzzer most of the time.

 

 12volt with key ON is for radio or heater or soemthing else depending on the size of the wire.

 

 

thos eblack box relays you can get anywhere. most are made in China  but you can go to the Junk yard in the ignition elelctrical box are full of them. Gfind the Jap or German made one and stack them up!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

#1 black wire? You're right, it does have constant power, connected it to the lighter and it worked.  Wonder why it was disconnected.   



#34 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:47 AM

they just fall out soemtimes


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#35 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:14 AM

(picture of differential)

 

Normal. If front at the driveshaft is wet the pinion seal may need replacing. In any case if you buy be sure to empty and replace the differential oil with GL-5 80w90. There's no telling when it was replaced last. Should be checked every 15K and changed every 30K miles.

 

(picture of front trans and engine oil pan)

 

Looks like caked on dirt not wet with oil. This will power wash off. If there were fresh drips I would be more concerned.

 

 

(picture of transmission underside)

 

Bottom transmission pan is clean and any oil has transferred back from the engine by the wind. Again replace the transmission oil with GL-4 80w90 NOT GL-5. Check every 15K and change every 30K miles.

 

 

(picture of valve cover and starter)

 

Hard to tell. If dipstick has lost the rubber seal blow-by will wet the block nearby. Oil senders can sometimes weep oil. The fuel pump should have two gaskets and a plastic spacer between them. These can leak and also the pivot pin on the pump body. Best to power wash and de-grease with brake cleaner and watch for wetness... then fix. 

 

Over all I would just replace the valve cover gasket the biggest and most likely cause of an oil leak.

 

Last is the crank pulley seal. These get old and drip and the fan and normal air blowing past spreads it over the engine. Check behind the crank pulley for wetness or a drip. But do the valve cover first as oil flows down hill.

 

Revisiting this, its definitely leaking oil but not sure from where.   Looks to be maybe the head gasket?  Valve cover is dry, but its wet on the passenger rear side where the block meets the head and obviously below it.  dubdlux replaced pretty much every gasket/seal except for the head.  I found the plastic heater switch, but no way to attach it, does it use a screw?  

 

31030845225_2955a29192.jpg



#36 Elkie

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:19 AM

Is that a stock  blue? Looks unfamiliar to me.



#37 d.p

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:37 AM

Is that a stock  blue? Looks unfamiliar to me.

 

Yeah as far as I know.   What looks off about it? 



#38 DanielC

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:38 AM

There is a screw that goes in from the side of the fat part of the heater control lever.  I believe it is a #4-40 screw.

Before you put the heater knob back on, make sure the shaft it goes on rotates fairly easily.  it only rotates a 1/4 turn, but that is enough to go from full flow, to shut off.



#39 DanielC

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:45 AM

There is a good possibility that the truck is a "stock blue"  The paint looks to be in very good condition, but also it could have been repainted.  There is also a possibility that the truck lived a charmed life, and was garaged.   Are there some stickers on the top of the radiator support, one having some emission control information, and another with the paint code?

 

The wheels were repainted.  Stock, they are grey.

 

What do the floors look like in the truck.  How much rust damage?



#40 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:48 AM

This it?  https://www.amazon.c...y/dp/B0002MAE0M Got a pic of it installed in your truck?  

 

Bullet connector has 12 volts with the truck on so that's probably it? Build date is 11/70.   

 

I need the plastic switch for the heater and a replacement side mirror, or just the mirror but not sure I can source that.  Anyone have a lead on either?

 

30727354160_9e6ffe6acf_m.jpg

 

31029342575_425e2cc875_m.jpg

These guys always have a ton of stuff on their website, though I've never purchased from them before.

http://www.new-datsu...ckup-parts.html