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My 1971 521


d.p

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I would go with the U67 head as you can use the much more efficient L16/18 4 into 2 cast iron header and down pipe. For best results get a '78 and up intake that has the water cooled/warmed intake runners. You could use the L16/18 intakes but they are smaller. Definitely throw away the U67 intake/exhaust manifolds. The U67 came on all '75-'77 L20Bs The earliest '74 L20B used on the 610 might have been an A87 like the ones used on the L18s. A87 ports are smaller and the valves may or may not be the same as the U67, depends. From '78 through '80 the W58 head was used with it's mismatched round exhaust ports that had steel emissions liners in them. Other than the liners and the round shape exhaust ports the W58 is identical to the U67 for port and valve size. All L20B exhaust manifolds are 4 into 1 and just functional.

 

No U67, seller has 4 x A87s though all open chamber...no peanuts.  But I can get everything for $300, guess at this point I just want the block/cover and PAN if the heads aren't desirable.  Can buy that u67 in the classifieds. 

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Got wheels and tires mounted.  Little too much wheel gap but that is expected with a step lip wheel.  Makes it look smaller, chevy ralley's just looked bigger. 

 

May need to lower my truck  close out that gap.  

 

42906489592_131c5910a7_z.jpg

 

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Also found out where a leak is coming in from my truck.  Looks like its coming the the screw hole for the under tray.  Anyone got an idea where its coming down to that hole from?  Also noticed my drivers side wiper arm/motor is making a lot of noise.  Not sure whether its the mechanism dying or what.  

 

41145580910_732c81e15a.jpg

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Funny is they aren't that stretched.  I was surprised how much stretch there wasn't when I picked them up.  

 

195/50/15 same as the chevys which have a lot more stretch.  I'll get a pic at some point comparing the two.  

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The screw hole for the package tray just is through the inner fender, just forward of the door post, a little lower than the upper door hinge, just below the diagonal stamped rib.  Seal the end of the screw with some RTV, or replace the sheet metal screw with a through bolt, and a nut, a flat washer, and a rubber washer next to the sheet metal.

DoorPostPaint.JPG 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got wheels and tires mounted.  Little too much wheel gap but that is expected with a step lip wheel.  Makes it look smaller, chevy ralley's just looked bigger. 

 

May need to lower my truck  close out that gap.  

 

42906489592_131c5910a7_z.jpg

 

42906489692_17dfbf07b7_z.jpg

 

Also found out where a leak is coming in from my truck.  Looks like its coming the the screw hole for the under tray.  Anyone got an idea where its coming down to that hole from?  Also noticed my drivers side wiper arm/motor is making a lot of noise.  Not sure whether its the mechanism dying or what.  

 

41145580910_732c81e15a.jpg

I have to say your truck looks good. very clean.

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Had some free time so I checked the lash cold and it was spot on at .008 and .010 but in doing so I pulled the spark plugs and this is what they look like:

 

41491535740_4bf82bdcce_z.jpg

 

They are 1,2,3, 4 so 1 and 3 are noticeably darker than 2 and 4.  What would cause that?  

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38 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Worn rings, worn intake valve guides or vale seals. Two and four are running hot enough to self clean.

 

Idk. Had the head done not too long ago and valve seals were replaced.  Engine builder didn’t say anything about the guides but no idea on the rings.  

 

Guess I just got to run it until it doesn’t. 

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Well think my starter gave up the ghost.  Started clanking/grinding today when trying to start the truck..sound would go away once it was running.  Like 3/5 times it would start, other times it wouldn't even attempt to turn over.  I pulled it out and can't see anything obvious but I figure I would just replace it.  Crash gave me a link for a reman'd one but thinking about getting new or the troy emirsh one.  thoughts?? 

 

On another note has anyone seen this before?  http://datnissparts.com/nismo-l4-naps-z-chain-tensioner-l16-l18-l20b-z20-z22-z24-13070-n7120/ 

Edited by d.p
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You need a fully charged battery with good clean and solidly connected battery posts to the two cable ends. The worst ones are the cheap ones that bolt onto the bare wire on the cable ends. Each of the other ends must be cleanly and solidly mounted to the starter lug and the ground bolt on the head behind the fuel pump. Starter is only as good as the weakest link. Replacing the battery or the starter will do nothing if the ground cable on the head is not making good contact or the battery is discharged or crap. Could even be the charging system not charging the battery.

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