Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 Well I cant really cruise and watch the psi at the same time..... gauge is next to the carb inlet.... So I was just checking at idle then bringing the rpms up and holding the rpm at 4000 and checking the gauge... it always showed around 3psi.... If i am easy on the throttle it shows constant, if it go full throttle it shows the drop then returns.... I'll check it again to make sure and yes I'm not under load on doing this.... When I was talking to doctor510, he recommended lowering the psi to 2.5.... i was at 3.5 before I went with 3 to split the difference.... And if I remember there was alway a 1 psi drop when I went wide open.... I do have an old phone..... maybe I can secure it to the carb and video the pressure gauge and go for a quick ride around the block. Do you think I need to be going 65 or can I just do the same rpm ? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 6 hours ago, datzenmike said: It's hard to get good readings unless actually driving it under continuous loads. Only idle mix would be accurate. So Mike are you referring to my fuel pressure or air/fuel reading? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 21, 2018 Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 Air fuel. It's not under any load just revving it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Air fuel. It's not under any load just revving it up. Yes you are correct.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 Forgot I order these..... After the beru cap failed I grabbed one from O'Reilly, I think it was "import direct".. it did the job and got rid of my misfire but had the aluminum contacts and quality was questionable.. The bosch fits so much better, not even the slightest wiggle once in place even without the clips on.... The clear one I couldn't help myself.... i was actually surprised on the quality, contacts and fit are just as good as the bosch and better than the import direct.... gonna save the clear one for days when I'm going to a car show or cruise.... 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 22, 2018 Report Share Posted September 22, 2018 Watching the clear one at night when it is running is what I would likely do, and for undetermined amounts of time I suspect. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 So I've never been happy with my charging system.... a while ago I upgraded to a new 60 amp external regulated alternator and then also replaced the regulator.... as I was replacing the regulator I found a loose wire , which I fixed, and everything seemed good.... In hindsight I so should have gone with an internally regulated altenator, well I didnt.... So last night I dont remember what but I was doing something in the truck, and a noise which I though was my fuel pump has apparently been my voltage regulator... it was making a loud buzzing sound.... I was just gonna go buy a new internally regulated altenator today but I decided to try my old regulator first.. Now no noise and the voltage seems more consistent.. going for a ride to see how it does.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 Well not much better.... the hell with this, just ordered a 60 amp internally regulated altenator for a 78 200sx.... suppose to be the easiest bolt in for a 521.... we will see.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 How did you get the larger diameter alternator to fit your 521? 521 and 620 alternators are smaller than the car ones. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: How did you get the larger diameter alternator to fit your 521? 521 and 620 alternators are smaller than the car ones. I have the 510 alternator in it now, its very tight but doesnt touch anything, even if the motor rocks a bit, It was a juggle between the belt on first then swing it into place... While researching an internally regulated alternative that required no mod other than the wiring jumpers I came across a post from bleach the said the 200sx fits with no issue.... and its 60 amps.... I do have a question.... because I like to know what's going on, even if I just ordered a new alternator.... I was trying to verify all the wires coming and going between the alternator and the regulator one thing I found was that the yellow wire from the alternator or the n terminal was only outputting 7 volts.... is that normal? if I unplug the wire nothing changes..... every other wire seemed to be correct.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 Also it seems voltage going into the regulator is good but just with the ignition on not running the white with black stripe wire is about 1 volt less around 11.2? When I start the truck the voltages shows around 5 to 6 on white with black stripe.... fluctuates alot... I can turn the regulator and altenator on and off so I know things are working.. turn off voltage drops to 12.8, I turn it on it goes up to 13.8-14..... but it never seemed to kick up when fans or lights come on... it always seems to drop to around 13 by the time I'm done driving for say half hour.... never leaves me with a dead battery but I just dont like the fluctuation.... 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 "N" terminal alternator wire at about 7 volts is normal. The way the windings in the alternator are wired, two sets of windings are generating current. The "N" terminal is the center tap of the three windings, so it is at about half battery voltage. If your 521 has an electric choke carburetor, the relay for the electric choke heater also uses this 7 volt signal to apply the battery voltage to the choke heater. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 Ok so atleast I am wired correctly.... Either way I'll be installing that internally regulated altenator tomorrow or the next day.... I'll post up size differences and how it fits..... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 On 9/21/2018 at 8:31 PM, wayno said: Watching the clear one at night when it is running is what I would likely do, and for undetermined amounts of time I suspect. Like a bug to a bug zapper. ? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 7 hours ago, datzenmike said: How did you get the larger diameter alternator to fit your 521? 521 and 620 alternators are smaller than the car ones. Did it on mine too. I don’t understand what the big deal is. Stock belt length is the only thing that changes. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 The larger diameter alternators have less belt adjustment because when swing them toward the frame rail they hit the idler arm. You just have to get the correct belt. Some of the larger diameter alternators hit the engine mounting bracket and the bracket has to be clearanced for the alternator. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 So I'll admit I was trying to be cheap with buying some more main jets.... Pierce wants $11 shipping on whatever you buy.... Mainly its because in the end I only need the one correct set, and most of the money I'm spending is infact a waste.... So I decided to try my luck and see what ebay had to offer.... Well I found 6 jets for $24, plus $4 to ship... genuine weber stuff, good reviews so I said why not..... so I ordered from these guys..... Well guess what its Pierce Manifold.... just got an email from them saying my jets shipped.... I guess I got lucky.... 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 If your externally regulated alternator and regulator are working OK now, I would not mess with it. Some redneck wisdom. Do not fix what ain't broke. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) My experience with alternators are getting worse. The Autozone and O rileys are now rebuilt in China I believe as my Rebuilt in Mexico ones seem to fail also. I think I got 8months out of the last one(521 daily). So I went with a brand New made in China sold thru Rock auto or Partsgeek(POWER SELECT). I forget the brand but its says Brand new. 58$ I think it was. Its a 35amper L16 small bolt type. As long as I start my 521 and run it for a min or so to recharge back up it seems to keep the volts up before I load it down with the headlights or heater. As with most 35ampers dont overload them at idle as the volts will drop. I had a 50 amper using a 510 lower mount but I lost adjustment cause of the bigger round size of the case and having a Turnbuckle system sold by soempeople on here. The turnbuckle uses more of the adjustment also which really limited my use of belts. I have the 7345,7350,7355 7360(5mm increments) belts as a assortment to use So I went back to the stock lower 521 stamp sheelt metal welded alternator lower mount. So I will give this Chinese NEW alternator a try and see if its any good. Cant beat Brand New GM units but just too big for a little daily driver and to much rigging for me. I like the stock fit. I HAVE REBUILT NISSAN 50ampers when they sold them back in the day but its for my 510. As with the ? above once the battery is charged up I think the battery charges at a lower volt level(maybe this is with the internal volt reg alt.As my 95Jeep does this. charges at over 14 then later its lower also to note on these new off shore alternators(not even Hithachi case units) and the POWER SELECT on fitting to a 521 the back bushing needs to be adjusted for the 521 mount. one needs a socket and vice to push it another way as the 510 and 521 mounts are slighlty different Starters I have run thru a bad batch also. I finally bought the TSI automotive Starters(out of Ohio i think), Really its IMI Starters out of Calif. as where its really shipped from which are Denso made motors with a adapter for a L series. They make them for alot of cars esp the British cars. Once this starter goes Il will try to use it and give a report on it. Defdes on the 510realm uses one in his race car years back , But thats not a daily so hard to gauge that one if its a quaility unit. But thats a option if people are sick of swapping starters out as I dont get more than 3 yrs now if Im lucky. price about 200$ from TSI Automotive part number 202 I believe Edited September 24, 2018 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 2 hours ago, DanielC said: If your externally regulated alternator and regulator are working OK now, I would not mess with it. Some redneck wisdom. Do not fix what ain't broke. See that's the problem it works but not really.... it starts off charging good then as things turn on the voltage drops.... It just never increases back up to 14... I tried using the 60 amp... vs the 35, still the voltage wasnt right.... and now my regulator is buzzing, I just dont wanna deal with it anymore.... I was able to bolt the 1978 200sx alternator in, it was basically the same size as the 510 alternator I had in there... The only thing I had to do was steal the 2 bushings out of the old altenator... the new one is definitely setup for bigger bolts.... And the belt length I had on it worked and clearance is the same.... couldn't get a good pic but it clears..... Cut this off and old an regulator.... I'll finish the wiring tomorrow and see what happens.... 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 Well, if it is broke, fix it. When going to an internal regulated alternator, make sure you still leave the wire that goes from the alternator frame to the bolt that holds the voltage regulator in place. This wire grounds cab sheet metal. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) I have been thru all this several times and I finally gave up on the externally regulated alternators, the light would be on but the guys at the parts store tested the system and said it was charging, that was until it was not charging, I knew that when the radio started cutting out. Putting an internally regulated alternator in is easy, I believe you need to find either a 1980 Datsun 720 alt. mount or use a 1981/82 Datsun Z22 alt mount as these mounts put the pivot point of the alternator about an inch lower so the big alternator does not hit the water hose/fitting above it. Next all one has to do is cut the alternator exciter wire in the "T" plug and wire it to a keyed source in the fuse block, leave the wire for the light in the "T" plug as it will work as is and unplug the plug going to the regulator. Originally I made the bypass jumper wires in my 521 work truck for the external regulator plug when I went to an internally regulated alternator, but that truck wiring gave up also, I then wired it the simple way I described above, I have not had any wiring issues since, I use the 80 thru 82 alternators that have the simple "T" plugs. As for the starters, I went thru several starters a few years ago, they would not even last 6 months, I was tired of changing out starters, when I put the work truck cab on the 1986 Nissan 720 frame/chassis, I do not recall why, but I used that 1986 starter on my LZ23 engine after installing the engine, so far it is the best starter I have ever had in this truck, it turns the engine over way faster than any other starter I have ever had in the truck, the engine starts way better than it ever has before, the starter solenoid is tilted a little more away from the engine as I recall but it doesn't hit anything so I am very happy with that starter, I even went thru 2 aftermarket gear reduction starters in that maybe 2 year period, I went thru 4/5 starters total. Keep in mind that when I put the 521 cab onto the 720 chassis/frame, I also used a 1980 Datsun 720 wiring harness, so my 521 wiring harness has been gone for 9 months now, I do not miss it. Edited September 25, 2018 by wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) The 1980 720 harness is the easiest one to use as it has no ECU and it is matchbox and usually has AC here in the Phoenix area. The only thing that the 1980 720 harness lacks is the electric fuel pump wiring and relay. Edited September 25, 2018 by Charlie69 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 25, 2018 Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) Just to let everyone know when using a External volt reg dont buy the Echlin mechanical volt reg)(sold thru Napa and maybe others)Its made in USA and they suck. I went thru 2 in 3 years. If using a mechanical volt reg buy a Japan made unit I had the USA made Wells Brand(also sold at Autozone) its a solid state unit which is OK but I had soem bad Alternator pop them so I had a Jap made mechanical and been doing ok right now on my 521. My 510 runs the Wells solid state unit but never drive the car anymore so it dont go bad. Edited September 25, 2018 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2018 Just got finished with wiring the new alternator.... instantly I was charging at 14.5, I'm sure the charge on the battery was low.... Charge light went out like it should, turned on fans and lights and voltage stayed up in the 14's like it should.... hopefully that's the end of that.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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