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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

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Feb '78 (just over half way into the '79 model year) was the first 210 (B-310) Stamped into the cowl behind and above the valve cover it will say something like....  KHL B310 RSFV

 

 

 

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This is a B-210 (July '73- '78) and looks nothing like the later 210 (B-310)

So Mike are you saying the later 210 is a B-310?  I am so confused now!  Actually I am always confused and it seems to be getting worse with age!!!  LOL

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Well the Maxima is actually a 910. This is stamped into the VIN on the cowl.

 

There is what it's called 'here' in N Am then there's what it's called in Japan and elsewhere. The 510 was a Bluebird in Japan and  1600 in Austrailia. The 240z was a Fairlady in Japan. The 610 is a Bluebird U in Japan but elsewhere a 160B or 180B, the 710 a Violet. The 1200 (B-110)/B-210/B310 (210) were Sunnys. I have no problem calling a car by it's Japanese market name. An S10, S110, S12, S13 200sx is a Silvia. If you have a 300zx it's also a Fairlady.

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Corvette = C4 same thing.

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Well on to other things.... my tire kept rubbing the fender when I would pull into my driveway if I had my wheels turned....  so I finally got around to fixing my front ride height (raised it about 1/2 inch), added a couple shims for the camber and the toe had been good, I hate to pay for an alignment,  but at some point I wanna verify what I think I did.....

Next will be cleaning up the engine bay, everyone always wants to see under the hood and I hate how it looks with all the colored wires exposed...  I'll take some before and after.... 

 

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So after trying to find a dyno shop to help me with my weber and failing I decided I'll do it myself.... I have a dyno shop that I can get results from but they can offer little to no help on my setup, so once my butt dyno is happy I'll run it on there's and see what I got...

 

So now I tried contacting Pierce Manifold, well I haven't had much luck there either... after a couple calls and emails I got one email response asking a couple questions.... well that was a week ago now and I'm getting nothing for information or answer....

 

So again i am stuck trying to figure out what to buy for jets... after reading a weber tuning book and some online write ups  i have a list of what I think i want but its mostly a guess... 

My idea is I know how its running now and what's in the carb.... I plan to swap jets  and see the difference and record the results.... my hope is to be able to understand how much increasing and decreasing a specific jet affects my air/fuel...

 

So here is my question is there any way to know how much a 5 or 10 mm increase or decrease will affect the air/fuel.... before I buy new jets...  or am I stuck getting a base line readings and new readings to compare and then get what I really need ? Trying not to waste money but i cant seem to find a way to calculate what i want based on my air/fuel ratio.... 

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Well after a nice discussion about weber's with doctor510 I decided to place an order through pierce manifold for some new jets.... I was pretty close with my corrections from the conversation with doc.... so I'll see what these new ones do..... 

I'm thinking I might change them one at a time to see how the engine reacts and move on systematically.... I would like to understand how the individual changes affect the whole instead of just throwing all the new jets in and seeing what happens.....

 

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1 hour ago, DanielC said:

Since you are going to be playing with carb jetting, you need to get a vacuum meter.  In almost all cases, if the engine has a higher vacuum under the basically same conditions the engine is running more efficiently. 

 

I have had one for about 15 years. I bought it to adjust motorcycle carbs back when I was working and playing in southern California.....

 

oddly enough I actually just checked the vacuum balance last week.... it was actually pretty close, but I still had to make a small adjustment to it....

 

This is a single weber 40 dcoe, they have a balancing screw on each bore.... basically they both start completely closed and you open one to balance it to the lower setting... should I be recording this value? Is there a certain number I should have? Or is it more about balancing that you mentioned the vacuum gauge? 

 

Also I think a smaller venturi could increase the port velocity but right now I believe I have the right ones in the carb for my application... 

 

Well atleast pierce manifold ships quick and they have the best prices..... cant get them to answer my questions but atleast I have my parts on the way....

 

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One thing people do not know about Pierce Manifolds is that it is a mom and pop business and they are very busy.  They are not a huge company with hundreds of employees.  No one can tell you exactly what jets you need as It is dependent on many factors.  Altitude is a major factor, condition of the engine, what you are wanting to do with the truck, and your driving style.  Is it hot where you drive is it cold?  There are many factors over what I just mentioned.

 

The best any one can tell you is a baseline to start with jetting.  You have the baseline in your Weber to start with unless you have put it on a stock VW engine then these require smaller jets.  The jets we run in the VWs here in the Phoenix are most likely not going to be optimum where you are.

 

Each engine has its own personality and you have to tune accordingly.

 

I work the shit out of my 86 720 king cab there for I run it a little richer than most people would.  My 520 will be my traveling truck so I will run it a little leaner. 

 

Doc510 is a great source of information.  He is local and we talk often.

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I think I heard that about pierce manifold before, another reason I still bought from them.... I wasnt actually looking for jet suggestions,  but more clarification on the choices I was making.. luckily I was able to get that info from doctor510.... 

 

And your right there are many factors.... 

Hopefully this gets me closer and gives me good info to really fine tune things... 

 

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Got some time in the garage today.... finally secured the ends of the front bumper to the fenders so they stop flapping..... 

Then turned my attention to the engine bay wiring.... I would hate opening the hood to show people because it just looked messy...

Before...

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Cleaned up some connections and covered in wire loom.... much more eye appealing....

 

After...

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Working on the other side of the engine bay tomorrow.... 

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Passenger side after.....

 

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Much better..... 

Still need to cover the harness going to the rear, but no one will see that so I'll add that to the winter list.....

 

Now if I  can just get the carb sorted I'll be really happy with my recent progress..

Parts should be here tomorrow or Tuesday,  cant wait.....

Still plenty more to finish but nothing that's gonna stop me from driving it... almost got 2000 miles on it since May..

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On 9/12/2018 at 10:46 AM, Crashtd420 said:

Well on to other things.... my tire kept rubbing the fender when I would pull into my driveway if I had my wheels turned....  so I finally got around to fixing my front ride height (raised it about 1/2 inch), added a couple shims for the camber and the toe had been good, I hate to pay for an alignment,  but at some point I wanna verify what I think I did.....

 

 

CAMBER

I checked camber with a small torpedo level held vertically against the rim. I adjusted this first before the alignment as after this will add or remove toe. Once the wheels are vertical, then align.

 

TOE

Find a level spot. Gravel driveway is good.

Four 2' lengths of re-bar or... w/e

Stretchy cord or fine string.

 

Pound two bars into the ground parallel to the driveway about 5' apart and tightly string between them at about the axle height of the truck's front wheels...  then do the other side so that...

The truck can be driven between them with a foot to spare on each side. Could be a foot on one side and two on the other, doesn't matter.

The re-bar are reasonable square to each other.

The strings made perfectly parallel to each other by measuring across with tape measure. Make sure you are at 90 degrees. Very important.

 

Line truck up and drive between the two strings.

On one side measure  from the string to the front edge of the rim and then the back edge of the rim. Adjust the steering wheel until l both measurements are the same and the wheel is absolutely parallel to the string.

Wright down the two numbers marking front and rear.

Now measure the other side front and rear.

Add the two fronts and the two rear measurements.

If toed in properly, the fronts should add up to less that the rears.

Subtract the 2 front from the 2  rear measurements, and you have a measurement of how much in or out.

 

My 710 calls for between 1 and 2 cm of toe in. I adjusted so that when re-measured, the 2 fronts were just over 1cm shorter than the two rear measurements. The 521 may be in inches?

 

The adjustment was amazing. Gone was the wandering front end and the car tracks much better with way less side to side steering input.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Lord! When I got my 620 it steered all over. If you hit a puddle on the left you were instantly in the left lane, scary. When turning a tight corner like into a driveway the steering wheel would actually pull hard into the turn. I went across the street from my place and looked at the truck facing me. Both front tires were pointing at me over a distance of only 60-70 feet!!! Insides of the tires were like a baby's bum.

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That's the way it use to be 15 years ago... I even added a steering stabilizer to calm things down......

When I rebuilt it I couldn't believe how worn everything was and I still drove it.... with everything new and tight I can cruise 65 on the highway with one hand and not worry.. Before it was white knuckle, you better be paying attention with 2 hands on the wheel kind of driving...

Never mind having 4 wheel drums with a leaky cylinder....

 

 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Lord! When I got my 620 it steered all over. If you hit a puddle on the left you were instantly in the left lane, scary. When turning a tight corner like into a driveway the steering wheel would actually pull hard into the turn. I went across the street from my place and looked at the truck facing me. Both front tires were pointing at me over a distance of only 60-70 feet!!! Insides of the tires were like a baby's bum.

That is caused by castor Mike, if the top pivot point(ball joint on ball joint front ends) is not far enough back it will bite into the turn, it will try to turn all the way by itself, I learned this when I put ball joints on my 71 Datsun 521 work truck chassis/frame, it was kinda scary to drive until I figured it out.

The frontend can look fine looking at it from the front from any distance as castor cannot be seen that way.

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