Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 It might just be the camera angle Wayno. Did you measure crankshaft centerline when you built the motor mounts? Those outer tie rods, did you make them? Why are they welded together? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 I don't know what you think you see in the pic but I assure you its where it should be... yes I checked measurement of the centerline when I built the motor mounts... Plenty of clearance 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 And those are factory tie rods... center cross rod has the adjustments.. these are fixed left and right hand... The pic actually shows two driver side tie rods.... wrong part packaged in the correct box.... got lucky with a warranty exchange bought almost 3 years ago... never opened.. problem solved.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 So the motor is centered in the frame. Must have been the angle of the pic. It's funny that they would weld the tie rods together, instead of being one forged piece. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Ya I see what you mean. So i should have said new replacement because i Looked at the old ones and your right they are not welded like these.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Not a problem, just an observation. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 I did forget that this is an L16, I am used to looking at an L20b and LZ23 in my engine compartment, the valve cover is higher in my engine compartment, I have had an L20b block in my truck for at least 18 years or more. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 All good....I was almost thinking that... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 it seems leaning abit left . looks likesame tie rods I got from rockauto packed in AC Delco boxes. right side oil pan high confirms this. but maybe not much to notice.. hows the gear shift? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 What about the gear shift. .. ? Let's all understand this is an L16 in a 521.. it's exactly where it's supposed to be... this is a view from the back perfectly gap all around to the crossmember... My transmission is level and everything is in line in the frame.. so what's the problem .. I don't know what everyone thinks they see.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Hi Ratsun folks.. So why do these Datsun motors appear to lean towards the passenger side?....kinda reminds me of the 1960's "Slant Six" that Mopar built so many of back in the day... Just wondering out loud... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Give room for the manifolds on the left side. I believe 510 cars are more narrow in the engine room because of the suspension. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Hi Ratsun folks.. So why do these Datsun motors appear to lean towards the passenger side?....kinda reminds me of the 1960's "Slant Six" that Mopar built so many of back in the day... Just wondering out loud... MikeC They are leaning, as Daniel said to clearance the intake/exhaust manifolds, and the Z block which is nothing but a larger L block in the 720 trucks is leaning to the driver side to clearance that huge intake manifold they have on the passenger side. A lot of members on here use the Z22 block/engine to make a larger engine for are Datsuns, as there is no substitute for displacement, we put an L block head on the Z block engine, put the timing chain cover from an L20b on it, and we put all the L16 mount hardware on it, use the appropriate oil pan(truck/car?), and now we have a larger engine/more power, there is a little more too it, but that is basically what we do. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 What about the gear shift. .. ? Let's all understand this is an L16 in a 521.. it's exactly where it's supposed to be... this is a view from the back perfectly gap all around to the crossmember... My transmission is level and everything is in line in the frame.. so what's the problem .. I don't know what everyone thinks they see.... That looks exactly like it should to me, I wouldn't worry about anything anyone's said, pictures can be deceiving. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 Any more progress? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 Nothing much to speak of... working on some of final pieces to fire the motor. Radiator and alternator are going in... working on power and the fuel next.. Got a little slowed down. We got hit with snow this weekend. Got all the way down to 1 degree the other morning. In my garage it was about 30 takes a bit longer to get the temp up from there to work.... hopefully some more pics soon and if I am luck I will have video of the motor firing in about 2 or 3 weeks.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 It was cold here last night. 30 degrees. Pretty cold for NorCal. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Complete parts closer.. Radiator, hoses, fans and alternator 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 I just liked this pic seeing the radiator Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 I had to use spacers for the rad bolts (which are SAE) to offset the rad back and also rerouted my wires as they were under. I moved them on the top and got soem fiberglass tape to keep the heat off. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Why the spacers? Just rubber grommets and new nuts and bolts here . There were just holes where my radiator mounts. I got a 3 row radiator for a manual transmission. A bit thicker than stock. Tight fit on the fans. My plan is to rewire everything as hidden as I can. I have some stuff to heat shield the fuel line and some wiring if needed.. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 everybody uses spacers on the Chinese 3 core rads. It will smash the wires that are behind it in the core support. Stock rads the surface hole mount is offset so the rad is not up against the core support. Why they didnt do this I dont know. My Rods (NOT SO ) Discount 3 rad recores are exact as stock and fit well. My Rad had a cunt hair leak so I put Prestone Rad seal in it. I didnt want to do this put it seemed to work( I only put in a 1/4 of the bottle) 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Ok... ya no worries of that for me since I am redoing all the wiring in the entire engine bay.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 I get what your saying now. The new radiator I got is about 1/2" thicker in the core area and the side bracket is completely square... this is a pic of the oem radiator the side backet has a taper to it. Interesting observation. Good thing to watch or plan for. 1 Quote Link to comment
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