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A 521 in Massachusetts


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#701 wayno

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 12:45 PM

So does this lockout on the dizzy completely keep it from working even if someone hot wires it?

If I put a battery disconnect in any of my vehicles it would be one that makes the positive side of the system a direct short, this would not work with any type of modern radio, or clock, as I would be disconnecting the power to everything and any thing bypassing the ignition system would become a short, basically the positive wiring system would become a ground.

This would also create an issue if you turned the ignition key on without moving the lockout to the not locked out position, so anyone with access to the vehicle(has a key) would need to understand it and not screw up, it could have a light when enabled that is isolated from everything on the dash(stand alone warning light).

This will not stop anyone from towing it off, but it will be a bitch to get it operational till the lockout was removed, as I said it will not work on modern vehicles with an ECU as it would likely smoke it.


 

 


#702 Crashtd420

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 02:18 PM

So does this lockout on the dizzy completely keep it from working even if someone hot wires it?
.


Yup.... bluetooth connection... even with power to the dizzy you will not be able to start the truck.... it will crank, catch and die.... it's one of those 123 ignition distributors...

I will say they are extremely well built but pricey....

With the lack of a vacuum port on my side draft and my higher compression on the motor, and the lack of local support I opted for this dizzy.... May have been a bit overkill but I love it....

it can be programmed completely mechanical ( which is how i have it set up) or with the vacuum hooked up...
I'm actually trying an experiment with it. . I am Gonna hook it up to the manifold vacuum and see what the dizzy tells me about the amount of vacuum it's seeing and when.....
Without any figures loaded to the vacuum map it won't effect the advance...
not sure what I'll do with the info yet but I'm curious if I can use the info to program some sort of a vacuum curve...

#703 mainer311

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 02:29 PM

There’s always a lot of talk in here (not this thread, but the whole forum) about vacuum advance. Honestly, the vacuum advance is fairly useless. It only comes into play when you’re in a certain RPM range and at part throttle. It’s more for economy than anything else.

#704 wayno

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 03:35 PM

Yup.... bluetooth connection... even with power to the dizzy you will not be able to start the truck.... it will crank, catch and die.... it's one of those 123 ignition distributors...

I will say they are extremely well built but pricey....

With the lack of a vacuum port on my side draft and my higher compression on the motor, and the lack of local support I opted for this dizzy.... May have been a bit overkill but I love it....

it can be programmed completely mechanical ( which is how i have it set up) or with the vacuum hooked up...
I'm actually trying an experiment with it. . I am Gonna hook it up to the manifold vacuum and see what the dizzy tells me about the amount of vacuum it's seeing and when.....
Without any figures loaded to the vacuum map it won't effect the advance...
not sure what I'll do with the info yet but I'm curious if I can use the info to program some sort of a vacuum curve...

 

I just realized something from this post, you have a very high compression engine yet yours don't knock as you have stated/said on another thread, and the reason it likely don't knock is because you don't have a vacuum advance hooked up nor do you have a traditional distributor, so that limits the advance like might happen if I weld up the short slot 1mm in my distributor, I was wondering why you didn't have an issue.

 

So I just looked up the distributor you have, I searched "123 ignition distributors", they are spendy, not worth buying as a test in my case, but I would say that you can fully program that distributor to any curve you want, I will try the cheaper route just to see if I can even do it as it is the sort of thing I can do, I am not a computer guy and likely could not set it up to work for me, I bet I could mess it up though, big time.

 

The inti-theft part is great, but I would not assume what you said will work about it not running, if it will catch with the key start position it will run, I would just disconnect the starter wire, hold the key in the start position, roll down a hill and let out the clutch or push start it and drive away, maybe it doesn't work that way.

 

All my 520/521 Datsun trucks have 720 columns with steering column locks, normally I park mine the steering locked all the way to one side, that will make it hard to even tow off, at least tow off fast, it would need the front wheels put in dollies.


 

 


#705 Crashtd420

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 04:41 PM

Wayno i haven't experienced any knock (yet) i'm running about 14 initial and 32 full advance... i've only taken the engine too about 5500. I've since done some work to the fuel system.. had too much fuel pressure ... and I'd like to fine tune the jetting....

And the dizzy definately won't let it start. It shuts down internally and won't trigger the coil even if you tried to bump start it..
I forgot I turned the anti theft on one day and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start since I just backed it out of the garage...

#706 Crashtd420

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 04:46 PM

There’s always a lot of talk in here (not this thread, but the whole forum) about vacuum advance. Honestly, the vacuum advance is fairly useless. It only comes into play when you’re in a certain RPM range and at part throttle. It’s more for economy than anything else.


Well that's kind of what I was wondering.. my thought is when I'm cruising part throttle could i improve anything....
Honestly I know very little about carbs and distributors been learning the whole time... still more to learn... i'm just looking for more info... same reason I installed the air fuel gauge...
  I plan on eventually going back to a dyno to really fine tune the motor but they have no jets for webers and no way to recurve the dizzy.. so I need to do my homework and bring what I need....

#707 d.p

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 06:24 PM

Damn crash I could t keep track of all those switches. It’s like fury road and having to hit all those switches in a certain order to get the truck to start.

https://static1.squa...89/?format=750w

#708 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 10:02 AM

You don't always hear the knocking or pinging. The ones you don't hear are the ones that do damage to your pistons and rings, even the rod bearings.

 

I like that battery kill switch with the key. I'll look into that for my future projects. I do like to have the kill switch isolate everything, including the starter. I've seen starters short themselves before. Maybe I'm just overthinking it.



#709 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 10:06 AM

Damn crash I could t keep track of all those switches. It’s like fury road and having to hit all those switches in a certain order to get the truck to start.

https://static1.squa...89/?format=750w

There are companies out there that custom etch switch panels, but the ones I have used end up looking utilitarian at best. No high design here.

 

This is one design I used on my '83 Toyota dash switch panel. Very easy to read, but not very pretty.

 

OTRATTW_Switch_Plates_zpsjg2putaj.jpg



#710 Crashtd420

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 10:21 AM

You don't always hear the knocking or pinging. The ones you don't hear are the ones that do damage to your pistons and rings, even the rod bearings.

I like that battery kill switch with the key. I'll look into that for my future projects. I do like to have the kill switch isolate everything, including the starter. I've seen starters short themselves before. Maybe I'm just overthinking it.

Here's a link to the keyed kill switch..
https://rover.ebay.c...tm/291016152512

And honestly I wouldnt know if I am pinging or not... I guess I just hope I am right....

#711 Crashtd420

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 07:37 AM

Well winter sucks.... progress is really slow right now...
Decided fenders, doors and dash are getting sent to a sand blaster to finish cleaning off the remaining rust and paint... I've been spending way to much time trying to prep the parts for paint with very slow results... this is when money over time prevails... I would rather work a Saturday for ot than prep these parts. At least in a week they will be ready for paint not months....
So the idea is to get as much done as I can and be waiting for a warmer day to paint.... at that point I should only have some assembly and to plug all the lights in..

Also bough this.... hopefully I can make it work to turn the heat on and off.
20180109_155840.jpg
5/8 in and out... I got some 1/2 coolant hose and some 5/8 to 1/2 reducers and elbows.... it is a manual valve so I'll either use a choke cable or if I can I was gonna see if I can make a door lock actuator open and close it...

Also got these coming...
Screenshot_20180116-103316.png
Never had a rear bumper, so I'll be making my own brackets for them...

#712 Crashtd420

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 07:54 AM

On a side note went to the garage last Saturday because it was a little warmer and I couldn't believe it... everything and I mean everything was wet....
Condensation from all the melting snow and the warm spike in weather....
So I backed the datsun out, wiped everything down and dried the garage out.. so while the truck was running my son asked if we could drive around the house before we pulled it back in... I like to do that more than just idling it....
Well today that wasn't acceptable to me... so I gave my son his first really ride down the end of the road and back....
Damn I love driving that thing... can't wait for spring....
Well he proceeded to rat me out to my wife.. he told her that I said "driving around the house is boring " and that I drove down the road....
Well it is boring and driving down the road is way more enjoyable, best motivational tool I own.. especially with this cold ass winter....

#713 wayno

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 09:00 AM

Them bumperettes from overseas are not the greatest quality, but they are better than nothing, you will see what I am talking about when you get them.

They are made of way cheaper metal and the metal gets waves in it when they form them around the corners, I suspect they did something like heat the metal real hot when they made the OEM ones so the metal was form-able, but whatever was done they didn't do it when these were made.


 

 


#714 Crashtd420

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 09:29 AM

Them bumperettes from overseas are not the greatest quality, but they are better than nothing, you will see what I am talking about when you get them.
They are made of way cheaper metal and the metal gets waves in it when they form them around the corners, I suspect they did something like heat the metal real hot when they made the OEM ones so the metal was form-able, but whatever was done they didn't do it when these were made.


Ya I am not expecting much from them it was just the quicker cheaper get it done now type of buy... I need a bumper to get on the road. Eventually I would like to do a roll pan with a fitted bumper, this just gives me time to figure it out while I am driving.. I have a few things like the bumper that will get reworked later. everything I am trying to get done is for inspection purposes... any thing that can get done later will be....

#715 flatcat19

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:15 AM

Well winter sucks.... progress is really slow right now...
Decided fenders, doors and dash are getting sent to a sand blaster to finish cleaning off the remaining rust and paint... I've been spending way to much time trying to prep the parts for paint with very slow results... this is when money over time prevails... I would rather work a Saturday for ot than prep these parts. At least in a week they will be ready for paint not months....
So the idea is to get as much done as I can and be waiting for a warmer day to paint.... at that point I should only have some assembly and to plug all the lights in..
Also bough this.... hopefully I can make it work to turn the heat on and off. 20180109_155840.jpg
5/8 in and out... I got some 1/2 coolant hose and some 5/8 to 1/2 reducers and elbows.... it is a manual valve so I'll either use a choke cable or if I can I was gonna see if I can make a door lock actuator open and close it...
Also got these coming...Screenshot_20180116-103316.png
Never had a rear bumper, so I'll be making my own brackets for them...



Someone would make a killing if they made/sold bumperettes brackets. Just saying.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#716 DanielC

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:43 AM

I have some 521 bumperettes, and brackets.  I can take some pictures of them, if you want. 

Doing some measurements on them is also a possibility, but that will take a little longer.



#717 Crashtd420

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:56 AM

Someone would make a killing if they made/sold bumperettes brackets. Just saying.


Well it wont be me..
I would love to, the brackets dont look to hard to make.. but having an original to copy would be better then what I'm gonna do... I don't think I even have the factory spot that they mount to.... I can only assume they mounted to the end of the frame.... I think my frame had a couple inches removed from the end of it.. damn that flatbed that was on there before... oh well...
I wish I had a better shop to make parts for the 521s... I would be all over it,

#718 Crashtd420

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:57 AM

I have some 521 bumperettes, and brackets. I can take some pictures of them, if you want.
Doing some measurements on them is also a possibility, but that will take a little longer.

I have some pics but thanks.. I think my measurements will be a little different because of my previous statement...

#719 Crashtd420

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 11:06 AM

I have some 521 bumperettes, and brackets. I can take some pictures of them, if you want.
Doing some measurements on them is also a possibility, but that will take a little longer.


Are the brackets mounted to the bumperette?
I'm thinking if someone wanted to bend up some new ones if you traced a factory bracket it would give you a pattern to match....
Are the left and right mirror images or are they different?
Daniel when you have time and If your willing to trace them and send me a copy I'll be willing to try making a set.. maybe we can help others...

#720 DanielC

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 12:30 PM

"Are the brackets mounted to the bumperette?"   Yes, with two bolts each, they are in storage, not even rusted.  Easy to take apart.

 

Left and right are mirror images.

 

I could trace them, and mail you the tracing.  They are also not flat, the truck end is parallel to the frame of the truck, and the "Y" that the bumperette is bolted to is also parallel to the trucks frame, but lower.