Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 I read that part about the penny, but it didn't make sense. Now I get it. Even into the 90's, Ford was using an all metal heater valve. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 You guys need something like the big brass summer/winter" valve that the roadsters use on their heater core circuit. Mine is permanently bypassed, since I only drive the car in nice weather anyway. It's part of the SU heating circuit. They're expensive and rare. http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/manifoldvalve.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 I'd buy that. Or if someone could 3D print one. Are you referring to the cover plate on the front of the blower that is rubber and connects to the upper vents? That's a part that basically cannot be rigid, so 3D printing it is out of the question. What may be possible, is to 3D print a mold, and then use that mold to pour urethane or even silicone. It's not an easy process. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Mainer. Yes that's what they are talking about.... And I am definately looking for the cheap solution to shutting off the coolant flow... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Why? Doesn't it help cool the engine in the summer? It creates heat in the cab. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 GM uses a heater bypass valve on most of their LS engines. Those are cheap and basically do what you have described, but they have two heater hose sizes on them. 3/4 and 5/8. You would have to neck the larger one down. https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/conversions-hybrids/248925d1282234339-bypass-type-heater-valve-late-chevy-heater-valve-4-seasons-74781.jpg 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 It creates heat in the cab. Turning on the heater to help cool the engine is a trick that goes back, way before I was born! It acts an an additional radiator. It's even made it into movies when people are driving across Death Valley or climbing the Grapevine hill. Better to suffer the extra heat inside the car than to overheat the engine. It's a bit drastic, but it definitely works. I've used it 5-6x's in my life. It was a fairly common practice back when all cars used mechanical fans connected to the engine. It was taught to new drivers just like changing a tire used to be taught. More modern cars are way more efficient at cooling the engine these days. There's your boring fact for today kids. lol 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Added this to the system today.... Oil pressure cutoff for the electric fuel pump..... supplies power during crank And once the motor has oil pressure.. once engine shuts off so does the fuel pump... Also got my electrical back to functioning with all my switches so I can start the truck again. Master on... start button is in the little black box... And ummm these are my extra switches... Left is dizzy, ignition, acc, gauges... Also got a backup R light ... Couple extras for possibly fog lights or what ever else I might want a switch for. Two on the right are fan and fuel pump overrides , with indicator lights so I know if they are on ... Dome light,top left Led override, top right. override is for all the switches if I don't want the lights on.... and the horn button... next step is running the wiring to the headlights, parking lights and horn up front.... and I still need to hook up the wiring in the rear to the lights, it's back there just nothing hooked up yet..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 And the dash will be getting painted... cold as hell here so no painting happening soon.... mostly just getting the wiring in place so it's all working... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Oof, good luck to ya. I hate wiring. I haven’t finished my headlight conversion yet because Hella USA has everything backordered. Apparently their system took a dump and now everything is delayed. My e-code housings are MIA right now. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Needs more switches 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Needs more switches Ya... I'm a little wierd with the switches... In the end there maybe one more.... I wanna do a battery disconnect and put that and the fuse block inside the glovebox but that will be later.... And mainer. . I actually like figuring out the wiring.... once it's functional then I'll clean it up a bit.... to do that will probably be a winter project where I pull the complete harness.... eventually I want to replace all the old connectors and shorten some more wires. And a bunch of other stuff to clean up the wiring... 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 What the hell is all that. you going to the moon, Darth Vaders bathroom is less complicated then that.lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 What the hell is all that. you going to the moon, Darth Vaders bathroom is less complicated then that.lol That's an awesome comment.... this is where the ratrod/madmax shit is starting to show.... sorry to the purists.... 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 And the holes that should have switches in them don't have any switches. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 And the holes that should have switches in them don't have any switches. They are there. More of a mock up right now, so those don't need to be installed. dash is coming back out for paint.... 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Not really a mock up when you already cut the holes. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Isnt that what mocking up is... get everything cut drilled and in place before painting? Wiring to the stock switches was already set... plus dash only held in by 2 screws. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Not really a mock up when you already cut the holes. I just pissed my pants. 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 If I was mocking up switch placement I probably would have used stickers. Drilling the hole seems like your mind is pretty made up about their permanent location. Well past the mock up phase. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 If I was mocking up switch placement I probably would have used stickers. Drilling the hole seems like your mind is pretty made up about their permanent location. Well past the mock up phase. I get what your saying.... I guess the mocking up now was more about the wiring not the location of the switches in the dash.... Either way.... Merry Christmas to everyone here.... 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Don't take it personally, just chiding ya Merry Christmas! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Don't take it personally, just chiding ya I never do.... not with the people on this forum... I learned that a while ago.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Ya... I'm a little wierd with the switches... In the end there maybe one more.... I wanna do a battery disconnect and put that and the fuse block inside the glovebox but that will be later.... And mainer. . I actually like figuring out the wiring.... once it's functional then I'll clean it up a bit.... to do that will probably be a winter project where I pull the complete harness.... eventually I want to replace all the old connectors and shorten some more wires. And a bunch of other stuff to clean up the wiring... I like to put battery disconnects in vehicles that don't get driven a lot. If you install it under the dash or under the seat, it can act as a simple security device as well. Beware though, the ones you buy at your local auto parts store are usually only good to about 20 amps. A starter draws more than that. Summit has a complete lineup of disconnects that range all the way up to about 300 amps. - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-disconnect-switches/switch-actuation/rotary-turn?N=4294944883%2B4294944881&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=battery%20dis&sw=Battery%20Disconnect%20Switches Don't waste your money on the plastic bodied switch. They are flimsy and don't last long. Merry Christmas! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 Ya I've seen the various ones..... I definately want something better than the 5.95 special.... And the starter isn't in that part of the wiring where I wanna put the disconnect.... I have the fuse panel in the cab so it will be between the power cable coming in to the cab and the fuse panel.... I found this one which is a 185 amp and has a key.... I wouldnt mind having some sort of a key for exyra security, since I have no ignition key... but i do have the ability to lock out the dizzy with my phone app... one of the reasons I bought it... 2 Quote Link to comment
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