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A 521 in Massachusetts


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#21 Charlie69

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 07:22 PM

Here is the cluster I am building for my 1966 520.  It has a NOS OEM speedometer in it.  Still need to replace both temp and fuel gauges with NOS OEM gauges and install LED lights.

 

DSC02097.jpg

 

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Here is my build link:
http://community.rat...s-66-520-build/

 

Here is my 86 720 2WD King Cab Thread

http://community.rat...20-king-cab-dd/

 

Here is my 85 720 2WD King Cab ST Build Thread

http://community.rat...20-king-cab-st/

 

Here is my Photo Bucket Album Link:
http://http://s477.p...arlie69_Datsun/


#22 Crashtd420

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 04:01 AM

Figured I'd post a good pic of my completed cluster.... nice visual between the 520 and the 521....
Screenshot_20170815-211325.png

#23 wayno

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 02:09 PM

This is a deluxe 411 instrument cluster with the chrome trim that Charlie put in his 520, the 520 had amber turn signal indicators, otherwise it looks exactly like a 521 instrument cluster with the green turn signal indicators like you have, the 520 and 521 clusters are interchangeable, the 411 cluster has to have the 520/521 mount hardware installed on it to mount it in a 520/521.

DSC02097.jpg


 

 


#24 Crashtd420

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 04:07 PM

Learn something everyday.... that's a cool swap.... I assume probably hard to find....

#25 Charlie69

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 06:18 PM

The black and chrome plastic is from the deluxe 411 as Wayno stated.

 

I did a L20B automatic swap in my 66 520 and I am using a 1980 720 wiring harness modified to work with the 520 lights and gauges.

 

Back side of my 520 instrument cluster modded to work with the 1980 720 wiring harness.

 

DSC01961.jpg


Here is my build link:
http://community.rat...s-66-520-build/

 

Here is my 86 720 2WD King Cab Thread

http://community.rat...20-king-cab-dd/

 

Here is my 85 720 2WD King Cab ST Build Thread

http://community.rat...20-king-cab-st/

 

Here is my Photo Bucket Album Link:
http://http://s477.p...arlie69_Datsun/


#26 Crashtd420

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 09:17 PM

Finally got the wheels on the ground.. preparing to put the cab back on next weekend.
Screenshot_20170815-211410.png

#27 mikec4193

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 05:10 AM

Hey Crashtd420

 

Do I see disc brakes on the front of your ride??? What did you use for parts for this conversion?....my Jerry Hicks truck is still sporting stock drums front and rear...

 

mikeC


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#28 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 05:47 AM

Ya I used beebani's hardbody conversion.. i don't have the calipers yet. Also i plan on Using a willwood master and proportioning valve... and running drums in the rear still..
Screenshot_20170815-211427.png

#29 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 07:32 AM

I'm pretty sure the smallest Wilwood master is a 1" bore. Too big for those manual Datsun brakes. You won't have any leverage.

 

 

Use a stock 510 master for good pedal feel.



#30 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 10:47 AM

Thanks for the input. Ya i was planing on the 1". So i take it bigger is not always better. And just to make sure i am doing disc up front and keeping drums in the rear. what year 510 were you thinking? I just looked and beebani's kit says any 280z. a 75 looks correct and has a 7/8 bore and are easily available at auto parts stores... and about half the price of willwood.. should I still run the proportioning valve.....

#31 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 11:15 PM

The smaller the master, the more leverage you have which means more pedal feel. This can work against you though if the master bore is too small, you will bottom the pedal on the floor before the brakes lock up.

 

I would try the 510 master first. A 280Z master was designed to be used with a power brake booster while the 510's had manual brakes. A lot of people prefer the firmer pedal in a go-fast car, but in the truck, I think you'd probably be happier with the smaller bore.

 

Any 68-73 510 master should work. You may have to grind out the hole in the firewall a 1/16" or so, but no big deal, right?



#32 Crashtd420

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 03:45 AM

If it was a big deal I shouldn't own a Datsun right. Whatever it takes to keep them rolling .and That's probably the best and simplest explanation I've read thanks...

#33 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 08:17 AM

So right now I am preparing to mount the cab back on the frame, should have pics after this weekend... for now i figured I'd post my motor build next... and before I do let me say this, yes I built my l16 and yes it cost more than a motor swap and probably will still only be around 100hp ( hoping I make a little more but won't know till she hits the dyno.) The reason i build my l16 is because i like having all matching numbers and no body really builds them for more power. So please be nice because for me there is no going backwards from here...

#34 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 09:24 AM

So I will skip the boring stuff and get to it... best book ever is the " how to modify your Datsun engine" I followed most of it for my block prep. I had it bored to 84 mm from 83mm and installed a wiseco piston kit on new h-beam connecting rods.
20160128_162746_zpsshu45hva.jpg

#35 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 09:28 AM

After I installed the first one I almost fell over... I guess I missed when this was a domed piston..
20160211_042902_zpsojuylbrt.jpg

#36 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 09:47 AM

The entire bottom end was balanced from the front pulley to the clutch. I also used arp studs from an l20b motor for the bottom end and for the head. Rods also had arp studs...

#37 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 09:55 AM

Are you actually going to run those pistons in a street driven vehicle? Have you done any engine math to figure out the compression ratio?

 

I would also massage the tops of the pistons to A- make sure they fit in the combustion chamber, and B- to knock off the sharp edges which inhibit flow and can cause detonation.



#38 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 11:28 AM

Oh ya.. trust me i scratched my head for a couple days about what to do.. don't worry the story gets worse with my head choice.... a got a w53 head with the peanut chamber. Even more compression.. I was getting to this part..... when I was putting all the pieces and parts together I calculated the Pistons as dished. I had the + and - wrong on the calculator. I thought i would be around 9.5 to 1... well that wasnt the case. It was more like 11 to 1. at this point I decided to say f@#% it and build what i bought. I got the compression ration down to 10.7 to 1. Oops... Anyhow ya I did chamfered everything and I had to open the combustion chamber of the head to let the piston cycle properly... very tedious... I also had to space and index the spark plugs to clear... I layed back the plug area too... and I was able to measure my cc's to within .01 of a ml of each other... did that through weights and math. 1cc= 1ml = 1 gram.... I did all that with no head gasket on to guarantee I had at least the .059 of the head gasket for clearance.

#39 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 11:31 AM

W53 head.
20160211_152939_zps2o1ku165.jpg

#40 Crashtd420

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 11:35 AM

Assembled....
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