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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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That's cool. I wish I still had the car from when my wife and I got married.

 

Thought I'd point out something. The red grease and poly bushings aren't a great mix. Something in the grease allows it to penetrate the bushing material and swell them over time. I use white litho grease on poly bushings.

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Thanks.. I have a goal of August 2nd to be able to take my wife out for our 10 year anniversary in it.... she was brave enough to get in it on our first date, in the middle of December to go snow boarding...

So i wanna take her back to where we went to for dinner...

You aren't talking Der Weinerschnitzel are you?  LOL

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I got nothing in response to charlie...

 

A thanks goes out to mike klotz, ordered one of his pushrods for my master cylinder, looks like I should have that monday....

Also Got the tires swapped on today... can't wait to see how it sits now since I had 2 different sizes front and rear before, and they were both way to tall..

20170422_172338_zpsnvresmjw.jpg

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While trying to see what size bleeders where in my rear wheel cylinders i came across an issue....

I realized I may have bought the wrong ones.... rock auto had listed for my 521 a 3/4 bore and 13/16... I bought the 3/4 and just found out my old ones were in fact 13/16....

20170424_182031_zpsi6kt35xd.jpg

Other problem was these were m10 not 3/8..

One didnt come with a banjo bolt so i messed up the treads because i used my 3/8 banjo in an m10 ... I was going to warrantee exchange the one with the bad thread but now i am wondering if I should buy the 13/16 ones instead?

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Bought wrong bleeders or cylinders?  I just ordered those same two rears from RA as well which say they are 3/4".  The ones you have on your truck now are 3/16"?  Not sure I follow what is the problem?  Banjo bolt is metric and the cylinder is SAE?  

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They old wheel cylinders were 13/16 bore.... i replaced with 3/4 bore.... didn't know If that mattered?

Basically the ones I bought are suppose to be sae , 3/8-24....

One came with a new banjo and tee and one did not..... all the new stuff measures metric m10x1....

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I forget, are you installing a dual circuit master?

 

I don't think the size difference will be noticeable. This is what I call brake tuning. Trying different master and caliper/wheel cylinder sizes to get the right pedal feel and stopping power. I do this often on trucks that I build for customers. Some customers want a soft pedal with quick grab, some want a firmer pedal. There is no right or wrong answer. The only "must have" here is that you don't run out of pedal travel before the brakes lock up.

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Yes i am running a dual 3/4 bore master...

D21 hardbody calipers up front, and the 3/4 bore wheel cylinders in the rear...

And a willwood proportioning valve just incase...

The recent confusion came from discussing speed bleeders with DP....

Once I realized my new wheel cylinders were metric my first thought was to warrantee my old wheel cylinders so I didn't have to remove what I have already installed to see what the replacements would be... thats how i realizes my old ones were 13/16... so now I am gonna disassemble warrantee them, cross my fingers and deal with what ever they send me back.... at least I know to double check it this time....

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And so far I believe I will have enough pedal travel.... right now with no fluid I can bottom out the master without hitting the floor and with play in the pushrod at rest....

I know that will change once I add fluid but for now I think i am ok...

Only other thing I should probably look at are the fittings on the willwood valve...

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Yes i am running a dual 3/4 bore master...

D21 hardbody calipers up front, and the 3/4 bore wheel cylinders in the rear...

And a willwood proportioning valve just incase...

The recent confusion came from discussing speed bleeders with DP....

Once I realized my new wheel cylinders were metric my first thought was to warrantee my old wheel cylinders so I didn't have to remove what I have already installed to see what the replacements would be... thats how i realizes my old ones were 13/16... so now I am gonna disassemble warrantee them, cross my fingers and deal with what ever they send me back.... at least I know to double check it this time....

 

 

I just got my RA shipment of cylinders but none of them have the zerk or Y fitting so no idea what the thread and pitch on them are.  Looks like they list all their Raybestos brakes are 3/8-24" but you are saying they are M10 instead?  I am thoroughly confused at this point and seeing as my brakes are fine I will probably just return all this shit and switch to discs when the time comes.  

 

I also got the non-speed bleeders and they are without a doubt smaller than 3 out of the 4 that were installed on my truck.  It looks like they (CARLSON H9411) are the smaller 8mm ones.  

 

 

34285536185_7a32292eff.jpg

 

Not sure this helps at all other than saying RA only sells bare wheel cylinders without any fittings.  

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Dp.. I think I got lucky that one came with one of mine.. but they do say they don't supply the tee, banjo and zerk so ... but you can use your tee on those so you don't have to mess with the metal line... just check the banjo bolt... if your 3/8 banjo goes in kind of loose then it's probably metric... actually this should work too... do you have a 9mm .3937 drill?

That's the drilled hole size for a m10x1..

Use the but end just as a gauge pin.. If it fits it's metric.. 3/8 drilled hole is a q drill... .332... I tried on my 3/8 fitting just now and it's pretty obvious we u check.... q was snug, 9mm way to big..

my plan now is to use my old tees, (had to chase the threads) use the 10x1 banjo... and leave the rest sae....

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Hey stroffregen... you'll like this... I guess my prop valve is metric.... started looking at it and realized previous owner shoved a 1/4-27 npt fitting into it...

I believe I was actually m10x1... either way it is now.... now to find some correct fittings....

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