SteadFast Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 I really need to learn how to weld! Life would be much easier. I realized that my header only has one o2 port, and I need two (wideband and narrowband). So I pulled the header and off the the welder to add an additional one. What I've completed recently: cleaned up wiring mounted dash mounted driver seat mocked up the s2000 gas pedal Pictures to come this weekend! Quote Link to comment
heywier427 Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Welding is simple, welding pretty is a bit harder. Pick up something like this. Cant really go wrong, or snatch up a cheap craigslist one. Its not as hard as you think. https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/tweco-fabricator-141i-multi-process-welding-system-w1003141?gclid=COqU3oCtu9ICFUxWDQodoOUHCg Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Not an issue for mine. I've been running that sti R180 set up for 5 years now and it works real nice. One thing I ran into was the shaft coupling flange on my dif was a bit to large in diameter to fit through the cross member opening. I pulled it off and replaced it with a Z 5 speed flange and it was off to the races. So the rear end is going in this weekend. I understand what you are saying about the flange being too big. I've already removed it, but would it make sense to install the diff without the STi flange, and then bolt the STI flange back on after it passed through the cross member? I like the idea of using what came with the diff, and not something from a questionable Datsun rear end that I have no history with. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Sorry for the delay. Don't know if you have it figured out by now, but changing the flange was about coupling with the shaft I have. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Time for a good update. I got the diff and brakes/clutch line installed today. The seat mounted. The cluster mounted and installed. The last picture looks a little funny due to the panorama I was trying to take inside car. I can assure you it is straight! The vinyl is also what I'll use to wrap the hood/roof/trunk. The STI R180 diff, and the driveshaft shop axle kit are a match made in heaven. I did decide to use the OEM Subaru flange. 1 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Whats next to do: Bleed brake and clutch lines Fill up diff and tranny with oil Figure out a tranny cover Get a custom driveshaft made Get an alignment 1 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Paradime (or anyone else that has done this STI swap), I'm fairly certain that the axle was inserted and seated correctly, does the gap between the diff and axle look correct to you? Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 I am a custom driveshaft away from getting this old girl on the road. I also put together a carbon radiator shroud. 2 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Measuring for the drive shaft next weekend. Needed to be able to get under there to take accurate measurements. Why I didn't buy these things years ago is beyond me. 3 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Sorry that my friend doesn't know how to turn the phone sideways. But she lives! Something is wrong with my brakes though. I've never had manual (unassisted) brakes, so I'm not sure what they feel like. Anyone in the Bay Area want to come over and give me their thoughts on them? Up front I have wilwoods with wilwood brake cyl, and on the rear I have 280zx brakes. Next steps: 1)Install radiator fan 2)Get an alignment 3)Start the process of working out bugs 3 Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 I just learned that you can bleed the brake cyl. I've never had to do that before. I'm going to try that tonight and hope for the best. If not I'm going to lean on the community for help. I'm just not happy with the feel. It feels spongy and am able to press the pedal (hard) to the floor. Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Nice to see this car finally coming together......... ..............been following it on Instacrap for a while then......... ......poof....... .......here it is..... Nice work!! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Brake cyl bleeding didn't fix the issue. I don't have any leaks. I'm going to power bleed the system and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the master cyl with a new one. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Nice to see this car finally coming together......... ..............been following it on Instacrap for a while then......... ......poof....... .......here it is..... Nice work!! :thumbup: I'm on instacrap too (Hondatsun510) 1 Quote Link to comment
heywier427 Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Are you bleeding with second person? If you bled at the master, all 4 wheels have to get done again as well. pedal is? : quickly sinking to floor slowly sinking to floor with decent resistance but just sinks slowly sinking with so so resistance help us help you :) Edit: Sorry just re-read above. Spongy, but hard. Sounds like air to me. Its gonna have a bit of squish at the first inch or so, but it should harden right up/ not sink. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted April 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Are you bleeding with second person? If you bled at the master, all 4 wheels have to get done again as well. pedal is? : quickly sinking to floor slowly sinking to floor with decent resistance but just sinks slowly sinking with so so resistance help us help you Edit: Sorry just re-read above. Spongy, but hard. Sounds like air to me. Its gonna have a bit of squish at the first inch or so, but it should harden right up/ not sink. I was bleeding with a friend (the normal 2 person way). Got all the air out, no more bubbles after checking 2-3 times. The peddle is spongy but can be pressed to the floor and bottom out with a little force. Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted April 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 More info: fronts: wilwoods rears: 280zx master: 7/8 size brake bias: wilwood installed in cabin 1) I'm wondering if the rear brake pads need to be adjusted more... 2) The MC is making the same noise as this one (not my video) but is this normal: Quote Link to comment
SteadFast Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Time for a long overdue update. I was plagued with brake issues. First the bleed screws on the rear were junk, then a brake line was leaky, then the MC went out. I then went through two MCs that were bad out of the box. I now have everything fixed and the brakes are great. I've made a change in the seats and switched to Kirkeys. I've installed two of them and custom trans tunnel. So far I've finished: Finish up wiring the brake lights and head lights from scratch Install turn signal switch Fix brakes Get alignment Install new seats Fab tranny cover Install rear window Install front grill and radiator fan A few random photos: All that is left is to somehow spruce up the interior a little. I'm thinking some quilted leather. I did this on a past project: And install the hood and wrap the hood. Then off to the dyno! Quote Link to comment
G8KeaPoR Posted July 20, 2017 Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Just curious. Are you running a Nissan trans with an adaptor for the F22C or any other milled parts from them? I mill some of the parts for one of the tuners out there's kits so I was curious. Quote Link to comment
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