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Project Hondatsun


SteadFast

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I guess it is time to start a build thread. A) So I can keep track of everything I’ve done, and B) So I can leverage the knowledge of the community!

 

History: I’ve owned two S2000’s (among a lot of other cars), both AP1’s. So the F20C is nothing new to me. About 4 years ago I started an Exomotive Exocet. For the past 3 years I’ve driven, and tailored the Exocet into what I wanted it to be. I just recently sold it to get funds to buy a house. If you care to view that build thread it can be found here:

 

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Because I can’t leave well enough alone, and because I love projects I’ve bought a Datsun 510 that needed some love (and was pretty cheap).

 

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It currently isn’t running, but it does have a ‘heart of gold’.

 

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The car has been around the block, meaning under the owner from yesteryear once had a F22C in it. The car was then stripped and sold to someone else. That person then installed a F20C swap and then abandoned the project. The swap was performed by T3 (Techno Toy Tuning), who is a well known Datsun Tuner/Parts Manufacture. The swap was done correctly, and I understand that the person that has done the swap has done a few F20C swaps in Datsuns and AE86’s.

 

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Now that brings us to present day. I’ve sense altered the header to clear the steering box. The header then runs to a muffler that is in the rear part of the passenger seat, and side exits on the drivers side.

 

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What the car needs:

 

New fuel system. A fuel cell, pump, filter, and lines.

 

All safety related items replaced; seats, harness, steering wheel/hub, new front suspension

 

A new radiator, either custom, or making a s2000 radiator work

 

Custom driveshaft

 

Clutch lines, and brake lines

 

Some sort of intake

 

Lights; headlights, and turn signals

 

Wiring altered

 

Some sort of interior revamp; will likely start with lizard skin sound and heat control, and then go from there.

 

I’m sure I’m missing many things, but I’ll cover that as I move through the process! Anyways, I look forward to posting a lot and gaining knowledge along the way. I’ve already determined some issues that I’ll likely post about soon. Thanks for reading!

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Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch.

We get that you hate aftermarket

 

Moving on

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Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch.

 

No mike it's not. I'm running one as well and it's the best thing I did. Your a purest I get it. Let the custom guys do what they want. Don't be a hater. Can't we all just get along.

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F20C's are notorious for oil starvation at hard constant cornering.  Because I have to pull the oil pan anyways to install stuff for Hondata Kpro, I plan on adding one of these:

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The Moroso oil tray has trap doors that prevent oil from sloshing around under hard corning.  This should fix that issue.  

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It was time to think about the fuel system. I was originally going to do a fuel safe, I even ordered one. The thought of it being close to the rear bumper made me worried about being rear ended. He is what I was planning on doing:

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I then decided to add a Aeromotive Phantom fuel pump setup to the original fuel tank. I first cleaned the inside of the tank with some POR-15 metal prep. For the tank being 45 years old, it was in great shape. I then went to work cutting and altering the setup for my application.

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I had a few extra moments to cleanup some of the wiring. Here is the aftermath:

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To do before the engine goes back in:

1)pressure wash the whole car inside and out

2)run the fuel lines

 

Once that is completed, I'll install the pan insert. Then the motor and tranny go back in!

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Question for everyone.  Because I'd like to be able to service my motor/tranny easily I'd like to do something like this (borrowed from Crude Engineering):

 

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The bar is removable and if I did the same thing would allow me to easily remove the engine/tranny in minutes.  Would there be a downside to this? 

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On a car of this age, the radiator support is just that, a support for the radiator, but in newer cars it does act as part of the cars structural integrity, the lower cross bar ties the front end together on these. However in saying that though, i'm sure it still does play a part in front end alignment, also it keeps bonnet catch secure, headlights from flopping about and so on, but theres no reason why a couple of nutserts on either side with a panel that bolts in the centre wont work perfectly fine. It's also illegal here in Australia to have that piece removable.

 

I tube framed the front end of my Silvia (S13) drift car, for a few reasons that included neater intercooler routing, inner tub removal for more clearance at lock, easier engine fitting/removal, but mainly because it had front end damage and nothing lined up.

 

I love this engine/car combo! Only thing that could top it in an N/A form would be a custom SR22VE setup, but that blows the cost out of the realm from normal humans.

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Started working on the fuel lines last night. I plan to rivnut everything in place, as I like it a lot more than screws.

 

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For the feed line I'm going with 8AN lines, and the return will be 6AN lines (should give me plenty of fuel for future boost needs). All hoses and fittings are from Vibrant.

 

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I also found these things. They are awesome for installing fittings. No more bloody fingertips!:

 

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Last but no least I started to do a layout of the electronics board. It will be minimal and will hosue Kpro, fuse/relay panel, two additional relays for turns and fan, and a terminal strip. This will be mounted to a piece of carbon fiber.

 

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Fuel lines should be done this weekend minus two stupid fittings I forgot, which I just ordered this morning.

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