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Project Hondatsun


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#1 SteadFast

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 03:39 PM

I guess it is time to start a build thread. A) So I can keep track of everything I’ve done, and B) So I can leverage the knowledge of the community!
 
History: I’ve owned two S2000’s (among a lot of other cars), both AP1’s. So the F20C is nothing new to me. About 4 years ago I started an Exomotive Exocet. For the past 3 years I’ve driven, and tailored the Exocet into what I wanted it to be. I just recently sold it to get funds to buy a house. If you care to view that build thread it can be found here:
 
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Because I can’t leave well enough alone, and because I love projects I’ve bought a Datsun 510 that needed some love (and was pretty cheap).
 
VUpW5ww.jpg
 
It currently isn’t running, but it does have a ‘heart of gold’.
 
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The car has been around the block, meaning under the owner from yesteryear once had a F22C in it. The car was then stripped and sold to someone else. That person then installed a F20C swap and then abandoned the project. The swap was performed by T3 (Techno Toy Tuning), who is a well known Datsun Tuner/Parts Manufacture. The swap was done correctly, and I understand that the person that has done the swap has done a few F20C swaps in Datsuns and AE86’s.
 
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Now that brings us to present day. I’ve sense altered the header to clear the steering box. The header then runs to a muffler that is in the rear part of the passenger seat, and side exits on the drivers side.
 
aQAOdTc.jpg
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What the car needs:
 
New fuel system. A fuel cell, pump, filter, and lines.
 
All safety related items replaced; seats, harness, steering wheel/hub, new front suspension
 
A new radiator, either custom, or making a s2000 radiator work
 
Custom driveshaft
 
Clutch lines, and brake lines
 
Some sort of intake
 
Lights; headlights, and turn signals
 
Wiring altered
 
Some sort of interior revamp; will likely start with lizard skin sound and heat control, and then go from there.
 
I’m sure I’m missing many things, but I’ll cover that as I move through the process! Anyways, I look forward to posting a lot and gaining knowledge along the way. I’ve already determined some issues that I’ll likely post about soon. Thanks for reading!


#2 Draker

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 04:01 PM

It would appear most of the hard work is already done. Welcome! Cool dime.


View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.

http://drakers.pl510.info

 

 


#3 datzenmike

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 04:51 PM

yOnYFYY.jpg

 

Poly trans mount????? wtf?


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#4 scooter

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 05:20 PM

Nothin wrong with a poly tranny mount

#5 SteadFast

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 07:10 PM

Agreed, many aftermarket cars use poly tranny mounts.



#6 mrbigtanker

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 12:13 AM

So very nice car. Love the Honda transplant also.

#7 Noflers

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 07:41 AM

Those Honda engines look much better when they are mounted longitudinal. Nice car!



#8 datzenmike

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 07:47 AM

Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch.


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#9 DaBlist

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 09:42 AM

Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch.

We get that you hate aftermarket

 

Moving on


 "It's like comparing a wooden roller coaster to a modern modern roller coaster. Without a doubt the modern roller coaster is faster, quieter and smoother. But people still love to ride the wooden roller coasters. The sounds, vibrations, jerks and jolts all add to the experience. Sure a wooden roller coaster may not be as fast, but it's sure a fun ride that can equally scare the crap out of you." - Annette

 

"is it racist to assume that cauliflower is just white entitled broccoli ?" - jrock

 

"You spend a lot of time pushing on doors that say pull, don't you?" - mhub91

 

Light travels faster than sound, that's why some people appear bright until they speak - www


#10 mrbigtanker

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 05:59 PM

Everything is wrong with poly mounts. Too stiff and transmit vibration. Why not make them out of aluminum? Owner will get tired of the this and switch to rubber mount. You watch.



No mike it's not. I'm running one as well and it's the best thing I did. Your a purest I get it. Let the custom guys do what they want. Don't be a hater. Can't we all just get along.

#11 edekalil

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 06:52 PM

Welcom to the forum, and looking forward to seeing your dime on the go.

CEO of the McComb, MS chapter of the 510


#12 q-tip

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 08:54 PM

I see a whole lot of "because racecar" and I like it.

I yeald to the wisdom of Q on this one.

Fuck!!!!!!!! I guess QTip was right...


#13 crazee1

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 07:51 AM

I am the "owner from yesteryear"

 

If you want to e-mail me at steve at hamannco dot com I can forward you what few pictures I have saved of it.

 

I am not on this forum often

 

Steve



#14 SteadFast

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 08:10 AM

Thank Steve.  I found the pictures of the 510 posted on photobucket. I'll reach out shortly. 



#15 SteadFast

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 11:04 PM

This has to be the most ridiculous ECU (Kpro) install ever. Had to pull the motor because removing the oil pan isn't possible because of the motor mounts/bar. Good news is, I can give her a new clutch/flywheel.
 
j53YiKsl.jpg


#16 SteadFast

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 11:05 PM

Also started working on the ECU A-connector and C101 connector harness:
 
cnNChkUl.jpg
 
There isn't much needed, but should be fairly simple. I plan on using this as a relay/fuse board/switch panel:
 
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#17 mrbigtanker

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 03:49 PM

Very nice.

#18 SteadFast

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:01 AM

F20C's are notorious for oil starvation at hard constant cornering.  Because I have to pull the oil pan anyways to install stuff for Hondata Kpro, I plan on adding one of these:

mor_23040_01.jpg

The Moroso oil tray has trap doors that prevent oil from sloshing around under hard corning.  This should fix that issue.  



#19 SteadFast

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 08:11 AM

It was time to think about the fuel system. I was originally going to do a fuel safe, I even ordered one. The thought of it being close to the rear bumper made me worried about being rear ended. He is what I was planning on doing:
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I then decided to add a Aeromotive Phantom fuel pump setup to the original fuel tank. I first cleaned the inside of the tank with some POR-15 metal prep. For the tank being 45 years old, it was in great shape. I then went to work cutting and altering the setup for my application.
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I had a few extra moments to cleanup some of the wiring. Here is the aftermath:
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To do before the engine goes back in:
1)pressure wash the whole car inside and out
2)run the fuel lines
 
Once that is completed, I'll install the pan insert. Then the motor and tranny go back in!


#20 SteadFast

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 11:30 AM

Question for everyone.  Because I'd like to be able to service my motor/tranny easily I'd like to do something like this (borrowed from Crude Engineering):

 

0hyx1Pyl.jpg

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The bar is removable and if I did the same thing would allow me to easily remove the engine/tranny in minutes.  Would there be a downside to this?