thisismatt Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 Oh yeah, I've bought from them before. Was wondering if you had found another source (ie cheaper) :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 Hi Thisismatt Yuppers it was "New-Datsun-parts".....kinda sad all the Datsun stuff is on the left cost and I am on the right coast....the new datsun guys dont even have a phone number where you can call them... This is the first place where you cant pick up the phone and talk to a person...never seen this before...my vintage Chevy's and my Willys stuff too you could always call them up...this is a first... I am learning this Datsun stuff is whole new breed of cat for sure... MikeC I can't stand it when a website doesn't have contact info. This usually tells me that they aren't wholly committed to the business and I tend to look elsewhere. It's a new business practice that we could probably rebel against by voting with our wallet. Ordering from Rock Auto bothers me too. They use shipping as a profit center and when an order is split between multiple warehouses, the shipping can be outrageous. I tend to use Rock Auto for part numbers and then find those parts somewhere else, like Summit Racing. Those guys rock and anything over $100 is free shipping. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 I probably have said this before, but I admire you guys on the east coast working with Datsuns. I think it is a lot easier to find used parts. I did have a 1948 Willy's Jeep for a while, that belonged to my dad. But it seemed to me that that some in the Jeep community would get into debates about the orientation and type of the bolts that hold the master cylinder access plate to the floor board. My guess is whatever bolts that were in the bin on the assembly line when the Jeep got there were the ones used. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Hi DanielC Here was my first real Willys....1947 CJ2A...rebuilt it 2012 to 2013...I called it "the Pile"...it would only do maybe 40-45 mph...very scary around the highways and byways that I travel in upstate NY....everybody is in a hurry...it really liked 30-35 mph better..had a 5.38 gears in the rear and front axles... http:// I think I drove it to work maybe 3 times...couple times out for ice cream...had to let it go...took a bath on it money wise...also had a 1960 and 1962 truck...not much better with them either... I am hoping yea old Jerry Hicks Datsun truck will keep up with the traffic flow around here... I also was thinking there might be more of an aftermarket support for these Datsun trucks than there is...we will see how it goes tho....live and learn everyday.. MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 Hi Ratsuns Got the new fuel pump from NAPA installed....we have fuel going to the carb now....carb is now not processing the new good fuel I have been feeding it... yea ole Jerry Hicks is little plugged up I would say... https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/AFP1069/AFP1069_0192465925 Ordered a rebuild kit https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/CRB21249A/CRB21249A_0232128084 I maybe handing this off to the small engine guy at work....he loves working on vintage fuel systems.... MikeC P.S. anybody on the East Coast looking for a cool Datsun truck project??? I have one in my garage...make me an offer.. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 OK, it is in the mid 30s here in the morning and has been the last week, my work truck doesn't seem to want to start without effort, for some reason it turns over and over but doesn't hit till I let off the key, usually by the third try I get it started as it just starts running when I let off the key, I have not used a jumper wire yet from the battery to the positive side of the coil to see if that fixes it, if it did I would suspect my ignition key assembly was going bad and I have no power to the coil while I am turning over the engine to start it, if no change then I would likely do a tune-up next as it has not had one since I rebuilt the engine a few years ago, this issue I have as always baffled me. I can also jump it with another battery(new) and it has started every time, as it turns over faster, so my battery might be getting old also, but once I get it started for the first time every day I have no more issues getting it started that day, it starts right away even after sitting for 6/7 hours, it's that first cold start every morning that is the issue. So your saying now you have fuel to the carb but it still will not start, have you poured a thimble full of gas down the carb and it does hit/start but then quits? Are you pulling the choke on? Can you look down the carb throat and push on the throttle lever and see a stream of fuel squirt out? Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 OK, it is in the mid 30s here in the morning and has been the last week, my work truck doesn't seem to want to start without effort, for some reason it turns over and over but doesn't hit till I let off the key, usually by the third try I get it started as it just starts running when I let off the key, I have not used a jumper wire yet from the battery to the positive side of the coil to see if that fixes it, if it did I would suspect my ignition key assembly was going bad and I have no power to the coil while I am turning over the engine to start it, if no change then I would likely do a tune-up next as it has not had one since I rebuilt the engine a few years ago, this issue I have as always baffled me. I can also jump it with another battery(new) and it has started every time, as it turns over faster, so my battery might be getting old also, but once I get it started for the first time every day I have no more issues getting it started that day, it starts right away even after sitting for 6/7 hours, it's that first cold start every morning that is the issue. So your saying now you have fuel to the carb but it still will not start, have you poured a thimble full of gas down the carb and it does hit/start but then quits? Are you pulling the choke on? Can you look down the carb throat and push on the throttle lever and see a stream of fuel squirt out? Hi Wayno I put a new choke cable in it last week....got it lined up and adjusted so it works correctly.... I have put a small plastic cap (of gasoline) from my kroil aerosol can....put it down the carb...then ole Jerry runs for about 2 seconds....I pump the gas pedal and nothing changes...fuel is coming up to the carburetor....I have pulled the new line off after it would not start and it spewed gasoline at me...I dont really wanna put compressed air into that fuel line for fear of messing something up in the carb... So then I pull the air filter off and pull back on the carb linkage and peer down into the carb....the gasoline just piddles in...very anemic like too... All the existing fuel lines have been pulled off and blown out with presurized air...so the lines are clear..... While I was looking at things....there appears to be 4 studs that holds the carb down to the intake manifold....only has 2 nuts on 2 of those studs...is that a factory thing to leave 2 nuts off when they put the carb on back in the day???...would it behoove me to get all four studs with nuts on them???....looks like a 5/16" coarse thread on there... Funny thing with this old truck...there are more American standard threads on this Datsun then on my current daily driver which is a 1998 S10 truck.....I always assumed a Japanese motor vehicle company would be using metric threads...my VW Beetle is all metric I think... MikeC Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 I think the 521 is sae under the bonnet and metric for body work but you'd have to ask a 521 guy Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 I think the 521 is sae under the bonnet and metric for body work but you'd have to ask a 521 guyother way around Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 "is that a factory thing to leave 2 nuts off when they put the carb on back in the day???" NO! I can assure you that Japanese quality control was much better that what the USA was doing in the 1970's. Much better than my proofreading as I edit this post. The nuts holding the carb to the manifold are difficult to get to. Stock size is a M8-1.25, with a 12 MM across the flats. Most M8 nuts are 13 MM across the flats. This is a picture of a 12mm wrench to tighten one of the carb nuts. There is a plastic spacer between the carb and the intake manifold. Set the carb over the four studs on the intake manifold. Put a flat washer, and a lock washer on the stud closest to number three cylinder. Start that nut, just enough to keep the washers from coming off the stud. Put washers and the nut on the stud closest to number two cylinder. Leave theses nuts loose for now. Put the throttle cable bracket on the other two studs. Put a lockwasher on one, then a nut. No flat washer needed here, the bracket does the duty of the flat washer. Then put a nut on, just barely starting it. Put the fourth lockwasher on, and start that nut. you probably will have to tip the carb up to get the nut on the rear outside stud. With all four studs having washers, nuts, and the cable bracket, tighten the nut by number two cylinder first, snug, not tight. use the bent wrench pictured. It is hard to see, the edges of the wrench are ground down for more clearance by the carb. Tighten the rear outside nut, snug, with a normal wrench, reaching under the carb. Tighten the nut by number three cylinder, this can be reached with a socket, on an extension. Tighten the forward outside nut, using a normal wrench. All nuts snug,then tighten the nuts again in the same order. You can put the carb on the intake manifold before the intake manifold is put on the engine. Do not remove the intake manifold just to put the carb on, however. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 You have a fuel filter in the fuel line as I see it in one of the photos, so it should not have let crap get to the carb, but if it sat for a long time it may have crap in there from when the crap fuel evaporated that they sell these days. How old is the fuel filter? 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 You have a fuel filter in the fuel line as I see it in one of the photos, so it should not have let crap get to the carb, but if it sat for a long time it may have crap in there from when the crap fuel evaporated that they sell these days. How old is the fuel filter? Hi Wayno I got the fuel filter from my local NAPA auto parts store. It did not see fuel in it until like 3 days ago. I run only non-ethanol gasoline in all my toys...it is a 91 octane too...doesnt even smell like gasoline like I remember....I am thinking something from inside the old line or the old filter (the gasoline I took out of it was rusty red)...must have traveled into the carb and really muddied the waters....shoot muddied the gasoline... I gotta go out and get a 12 MM junker wrench to bend up for the re-tightening of the carb...gotta find those metric nuts at the hardware store too... You guys are awesome....we will get this Jerry Hicks up and running...cant wait really... mikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 So I go out on this sunny and cold Sunday morning to run a new rear brake line, got all my fittings lined up, fresh roll of copper clad brake line and I go to try and loosen the brake line hangers.... http:// did a little poking around....and... http:// and some more of the same.... http:// So we sorta hit a snafu for sure...I had to just walk away from it for a little while...went back later in the day and got the cross-member vacuumed out...it was full of dried North Carolina clay....more rotted metal and even a couple of acorns for safe keeping... If you are wondering what that rubber hose is in the pictures...that is what they were using for fuel line on this Jerry Hicks truck... The bottom of the cross-member is pretty thin too...kinda looks like Swiss cheese from this end.... hmm....lots of chin scratching now... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 What about the main frame rails front to back, how are they? That is the carrier cross member with the rust in the photos, it is a structural cross member, but is not a critical one, it has the drive line carrier and e-brake connected to it, I replaced mine with a 2X4 piece of thin walled metal when I lowered my 520. You need to check the main frame rails front to back, especially around the suspension points front and rear, check the rails on the rear arch straight over the rear axle inside and out side side rails, if they are rusted thru the sides of the rails then you have problems. See how beat to shit my rail was, it was dragging on everything, I have seen some trucks that it was really wasted, and they didn't have any issues. Here is the new one I put in. This is actually a 720 frame, but the 521 frame is built strong, actually over built like most Datsun trucks. 2 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 One way to get a feel of how bad the frame is rusted is to tap it with a small hammer in various places. If it rings, that is good. If it has a dull thud, there is rust. Obviously, if you knock a hole in it, that is bad, so is the sound of loose rust flakes inside the frame rail. 2 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 Hi Ratsunfolks.... Hey DanielC...I did the tap trick it appears as tho the current original frame is gonna be ok to save... Went out to the garage...got part of the crossmember welded up...pictures to follow... Did find a source for Datsun parts and they are in the USA....yippee... http://www.nosimport.com/ I even talked to the fellow on the phone....he seems decent....I ordered a baseplate gasket for the Jerry Hicks truck...$12.00 plus shipping... He says he has thousands of parts on his ebay store...only time will tell... Carb is still at the carb doctors... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Spent a little bit of time on ole Jerry Hicks... http:// passengers side http:// drivers side.... Got the new copper clad solid brake line run too...more pictures to follow... Next thing is the rear gas line...got some copper clad 1/4" line for that... Funny thing...I put the old truck up on the local Albany NY Craiglist...wasn't one 1 hour and I get "I'll pay you exactly what you want for it...I will put it on you paypal account"....I told the person...a bank check is the way we roll around here...have heard back from them since.... Anybody wanna cool old truck?? MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 U.S. mail dropped a package at my mailbox....straight from World Wide Auto Parts in Madison WI.... http:// So which side goes on which side??? http:// Looks brandy new to me....only took 4 days from the time I called them on the phone and it showed up in the mail box...carb is still at the carb doctors... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 20, 2016 Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 I believe part number side goes up. Cutout on gasket matches cutout on carb. Still need air cleaner base, and park lamp mud covers? 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted December 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 I believe part number side goes up. Cutout on gasket matches cutout on carb. Still need air cleaner base, and park lamp mud covers? Hi Daniel C I would love to get the rubber piece that wraps around the carburetor at the top that the air cleaner clamps on...the PVC hose I cant find that part anywhere....so yes I need that piece part too...if you want to sell all those parts with the base that is ok too (my base seems to be ok tho)...and yes the parking lamp mud covers would be great too....the ones here are rotted really bad..... Let me know how we can proceed... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 20, 2016 Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 PM me your address to ship parts to. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted January 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Just dropped the price on the Jerry Hicks Datsun truck project.... Currently a good parts project or a rat rod project....taking offers on it... Asking $1800.00 or best offer MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Sell me your gas tank. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted January 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Hi D.P. I will make someone a heck of a deal for this whole truck....I will sell you the gas tank for $1800.00 you gotta take the whole truck with it...make me a offer...I will even help load it on a trailer for you.. Thanks for the offer tho... MikeC 2 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 A 23 year old kid came over tonight...coldest day of the season so far.....he is gonna but a VW TDI under the hood... https:// I learned so much from this truck...he was like a kid in the candy store when he picked it up... https:// If I do a another one...I need to figure out what I want to end up with.....this one I couldn't get a handle on it from the day the shipper told me "Hey Mike....did you know this Datsun doesn't run...."...I bought it as a running driver and it never did either...run or drive... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
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