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#41 wayno

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 07:04 PM

I personally would leave the tank where it is unless I seen rust holes in it, remove the sender thru the access hole in the bed and look at the inside of the tank.

My NL320 I bought from Mike was just fine except for the float, I took the sender out and looked in the tank, it was fine, but the float was shot, so I put another sender in and called it good, the gauge works.

The thing about that truck is that it likely had never had ethanol fuel in it, so maybe it didn't rust inside at all. 


 

 


#42 HOGIE

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 09:53 PM

I personally would leave the tank where it is unless I seen rust holes in it, remove the sender thru the access hole in the bed and look at the inside of the tank.
My NL320 I bought from Mike was just fine except for the float, I took the sender out and looked in the tank, it was fine, but the float was shot, so I put another sender in and called it good, the gauge works.
The thing about that truck is that it likely had never had ethanol fuel in it, so maybe it didn't rust inside at all.


I'm probably going to go ahead and hot tank, acid dip and flush my tank. I've done this on both my 620 and 521. Had no problems and love having the knowledge that zero crud is going to get pumped into my engine. Only question is if the sending unit is broken by me or junk when it gets pulled out where to get a new one.

#43 HOGIE

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 09:53 PM

It took some hammering around the sides plus pulling at the edge for a while to get the drum out far enough to get a screw driver then a pry bar better the axle and drum. But I finally got the drum off the cruddy old shoes.

image_zpskxkudlsy.jpg



The wheel cylinder is dry inside and the rubber dust shields are brittle and hard. Probably seized pistons has something to do with seized brakes. Rusty behind the wheel cylinder on the backing plate.

image_zps64mhasfr.jpg



Dirt old adjuster has a seized star bolt. It was nearly all the way backed off so although it wouldn't turn when I tried to back it off to free up the brakes I don't think it was the problem.

image_zps5wroy6ic.jpg





I'm assuming the rest of the brake components look a lot like these parts so I'm going to order brake shoes, return springs kits, wheel cylinder rebuild kits (or wheels cylinders), maybe adjusters if I can't free up the one or I find damage and maybe wheel seal and bearing while I'm in there.

I'm going to take the backing plates and drums to work to hot tank and acid treat them to clean them up. Also take the drums to Les Scwabbs to have them checked to see if they are within spec.




I'm wondering about what parts are interchangeable between different models. While looking at Rockauto I've seen that the drums and shoes are listed at the same part number for 320, 520, 521 and 620. Are other parts like wheel cylinders, bearing, wheels seals, brake adjuster and return spring hardware kits also the same. I know the front wheel bearings are different so that doesn't work.


I might wait to do all of this brake work for a few weeks and just slap a wheel back on it to make it a roller and start in on trying to get the engine started while researching on getting all the brake parts I need so it not on jack stand for weeks unable to move.

#44 wayno

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 11:10 PM

Don't fix what isn't broken, remove the sender while the tank is where it is and look inside, Mike never did anything to this tank as far as I can tell, it still had the rotten float inside it, if he had done anything with the tank I am sure he would have fixed the float, and this NL320 was pulled out of the bushes as I recall.

Once you dip that tank, if it has holes in it afterwards, good luck finding another one, they are not the same as the L320, they are different, and I don't have an extra for you, I cannot even find a good rear bumper for these NL320s, as everyone that finds one is trying to save it, they are not parting it out, you are lucky that both your taillight bezels are good, 320 parts are drying up, and what is out there people want a fortune for, someone recently wanted a $1000.00 for a set of NL320 taillight bezels on Facebook, don't know if they sold or not as I don't do Facebook.

DSCN1675.JPG

I would not mess with the tank until you know it has rust in it, it is a very big pain to get in and out, and you will not be able to get parts/hoses for it, you will have to make everything including the gasket between the sender and the tank.

 

As for the brake parts such as brake cylinders and such, not sure if they are available either, as for the star wheel, hit it with PB blaster and use punches/sockets to tap it apart, once apart clean them up and put them back together, I do it all the time, but it helps for me to have had two other 320 axles to remove parts from in case I ruined what I had.

You need to save what you have, 520 and maybe 521 parts may work, but availability is always an issue. 

You are not going to be able to afford all new stuff for one of these trucks, you will sink a large fortune in money and time making it dependable in your mind, just get it going and fix what needs fixed as it breaks, get the brakes done with new brake cylinders and get a new master, a 521 brake master will work if you use the 320 rod, then get the engine running using a gas can, once it is running blow air thru the line from the front to the tank and listen for air at the filler, then put a couple gallons in the tank, connect up the hoses and see if you can get it to run, use an aftermarket clear filter in the fuel line near the inner fender well and keep looking at how much crap is in it, if you see rust, then drop the tank, if you don't see anything but gas then call that part good for now, as far as I can tell that is what Mike did, and he daily drove it without a fuel gauge, he just kept track of his mileage.

If you were closer I am sure if it was going to run, we could get it running in a couple hours at the most, I have done it several times with engines that sat 10/20 years, I have this routine I go thru to start one, I have never failed yet except for one diesel engine that had been in a swamp for over 20 years, and it was drug into that swamp because it would not run, but I did get it to hit a couple times, but it never ran. :( 


 

 


#45 Draker

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 11:14 PM

Just take that adjuster and drop it in some PB blaster for a while. If that doesn't work, hit it with a torch. The aluminum should swell enough to loosen the star wheel.


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#46 Charlie69

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 03:01 AM

Rock auto 1972 620 adjusters $8.99 each plus shipping might work.  These are on close out so hurry.

 

BECK/ARNLEY 0850024 Left rear

 

BECK/ARNLEY 0850032 Right rear

 

http://www.rockauto....us hardware,685



#47 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 09:14 AM

I'm not an expert on interchageable parts, but I do know that the 320 has SAE threads on most of the truck. This includes brake lines. If you buy newer parts, from a 620, the threads are undoubtedly going to be metric (10x1.0) so you'll have to make new brake lines.

 

This could actually be an opportunity to be sure the truck makes it into the next life. Upgrade with newer, more commonly available parts, and make the required mods to make them all fit.

 

One upgrade I would seriously consider is installing a dual circuit master cylinder from a 620. There are three reasons for this upgrade. First and most obvious reason is the safety factor. Second is the brake proportioning front to rear. If you install a prop valve at the same time, either auto adjust or manual adjust, the brakes will work a lot better. Third is the residual valve. I don't believe the 320 had a residual valve at all, which allows the wheel cylinders to suck air, introducing air and impurities into the system.

 

When I restored my 320 mechanicals the first time around, I used all NOS 320 parts. Within 8 years I had to replace a couple of the wheel cylinders. They got crudded up and seized. This was most likely caused by the lack of residual valves. The second time around I installed a dual circuit master and all those problems went away.



#48 HOGIE

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 10:34 AM

I'm not an expert on interchageable parts, but I do know that the 320 has SAE threads on most of the truck. This includes brake lines. If you buy newer parts, from a 620, the threads are undoubtedly going to be metric (10x1.0) so you'll have to make new brake lines.
 
This could actually be an opportunity to be sure the truck makes it into the next life. Upgrade with newer, more commonly available parts, and make the required mods to make them all fit.
 
One upgrade I would seriously consider is installing a dual circuit master cylinder from a 620. There are three reasons for this upgrade. First and most obvious reason is the safety factor. Second is the brake proportioning front to rear. If you install a prop valve at the same time, either auto adjust or manual adjust, the brakes will work a lot better. Third is the residual valve. I don't believe the 320 had a residual valve at all, which allows the wheel cylinders to suck air, introducing air and impurities into the system.
 
When I restored my 320 mechanicals the first time around, I used all NOS 320 parts. Within 8 years I had to replace a couple of the wheel cylinders. They got crudded up and seized. This was most likely caused by the lack of residual valves. The second time around I installed a dual circuit master and all those problems went away.


On my 521, and every other 521, the brake components are metric, chassis hardware are SAE, and the cab is metric. Please, anyone correct me if I'm wrong. If I have to run new brake lines with new fittings I'd be fine with that. This project going to e a stock cruiser but some chassis upgraded will happen to make it safe and reliable. I do like the idea of moving to a dual brake master setup.

#49 HOGIE

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 10:35 AM

Just take that adjuster and drop it in some PB blaster for a while. If that doesn't work, hit it with a torch. The aluminum should swell enough to loosen the star wheel.

  

Rock auto 1972 620 adjusters $8.99 each plus shipping might work.  These are on close out so hurry.
 
BECK/ARNLEY 0850024 Left rear
 
BECK/ARNLEY 0850032 Right rear
 
http://www.rockauto....us hardware,685



PB and adjusters are both are on my list

#50 deerio

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 03:10 AM

I don't know if I just got lucky but I replaced most of my brake components with new parts and everything seems to be working correctly so far and it's been coming on to 2 years since I've done the work.

 

I created a thread HERE with all the parts I used, hopefully it comes in handy.



#51 320 Newb

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 06:37 AM

^^^^^ Wow great resource, thank you.



#52 HOGIE

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 11:40 AM

I don't know if I just got lucky but I replaced most of my brake components with new parts and everything seems to be working correctly so far and it's been coming on to 2 years since I've done the work.

I created a thread HERE with all the parts I used, hopefully it comes in handy.


Awesome. This is exactly the type of info I needed.

#53 HOGIE

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 02:11 PM

just ordered adjuster, wheel cylindes for the front, and wheel cylinder repair kits for the back



#54 Draker

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 02:53 PM

nice!

 

I was driving around yesterday. I thought about texting you to see what's goin on with the NL, but I just drove around a bit more and went home. Need to come check it out and get my hands dirty.


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#55 HOGIE

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 04:01 PM

nice!

I was driving around yesterday. I thought about texting you to see what's goin on with the NL, but I just drove around a bit more and went home. Need to come check it out and get my hands dirty.



Agreed. Come over next weekend and we should get it started. Haven't even tried yet.

#56 deerio

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 11:44 PM

Awesome. This is exactly the type of info I needed.

I had a hard time finding out correct part numbers so I figured I'd document them when I had the chance.  

 

Replacement parts were cheap enough that it was more cost effective to buy new instead of rebuilding or buying used.



#57 difrangia

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 05:31 AM

A lot of maintainance stuff for these old beasts can still be found out there. Just have to be persistent. Internet is greatest tool devised so far for gathering info and hard items. A query on Ratsun will generally get you good, informative experienced feedback and part sources. The 320 owners are one of the most sane groups that I've experienced in any collector medium. Guess it;s just the overall character of the little creatures. Creatures being the pickups, not the owners/caretakers. Can't drive one without grinning the top half of your head off !!!

 

Hoagie, You might try Ivan in Ft. Worth for parts as you need them. He was trying to sell a lot of the old stuff in his inventory a year and a half or so ago. I acquired a box of struff from him including rear shocks, timing chain tensioner, full gasket set, and more. He dug and dug and found correct parts for me. Didn't have everything, but everything counts.

 

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#58 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 10:42 AM

On my 521, and every other 521, the brake components are metric, chassis hardware are SAE, and the cab is metric. Please, anyone correct me if I'm wrong. If I have to run new brake lines with new fittings I'd be fine with that. This project going to e a stock cruiser but some chassis upgraded will happen to make it safe and reliable. I do like the idea of moving to a dual brake master setup.

 

 

My 66 411 is all SAE, It's a weird thing to get used to, but easy enough to work with. :lol: 


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#59 difrangia

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 06:56 PM

The 320's are pretty much all SAE except for vendor supplied items such as light units and some electrical items. That's been my experience so far and I've wrenched pretty much all of this NL except the rear axle. And that's slated for a ratio change next year. Life just keeps getting better.

 

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#60 HOGIE

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Posted 18 November 2016 - 07:35 PM

Came home to a few boxes form RockAuto
Inside are a wheel cylinder kit( I thought I bought two), front wheel cylinders, and adjusters for all corners.

Also was gifted two almost brand new drums by Rhino. Thanks dude.

image_zpsuqthhl8s.jpg

Hopefully I have time this weekend to get the brakes spiffed up