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HOGIE

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I hate to say this, I should have went with my first post I wrote instead of erasing it and going with the it might be stuck post, I didn't want to sound like a know it all. 

Sand paper was not likely a good idea, your not trying to take ANY metal out of the bore, if you can see sand marks...........

All you needed to do was knock all the rust/oxidation loose with a hone, a hone doesn't really take much material unless you use it a very long time, sand paper does take metal.

I hope it is all right, otherwise your going to need another slave.

 

To put it another way, you would not use sand paper on an engine cylinder bore, and that is not soft aluminum like a slave cylinder, buy a brake cylinder hone.

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I am thinking brake cylinder hone like you buy at any auto parts store for $10.00, maybe $15.00 at the most, as for the grit, like the grit one would finish sharpening a knife with.

Brake cylinder hones hardly press against the bore and any material that does come out comes out with the liquid, the seal in a brake cylinder piston has to be on a PERFECTLY smooth surface, otherwise it is not going to function properly, as it has to hold the liquid in even when not under pressure.

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Tomorrow I'm going but a hone and drop the rubber line off the be duplicate, another $30 bucks. I already installed the brake and clutch masters after swapping over the og piston rods. Once the slave cylinder rebuild kit shows up it's install and bleed. Brakes and clutch lines will be done.

 

I got the fuel sender arm freed up and cleaned off. I'm going to reinstall fuel tank, lines and filter bowl with element this week.

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I took the cylinder housing back to work along with the bleeder, mounting hardware and piston rod and gave them a quick hot tank. Then into our ph neutral anti-rust chemical. We use that on cast iron parts because the acid is hard on cast. It makes parts look brand new.

 

This is what the cylinder wall looks like now. I didn't end up grabbing a hone today or that would be done

image_zpsfsdm0mbk.jpg

 

 

Besides a quick hone, rattle can paint job and the arrival of the rebuild kit everything is cleaned up and ready to p back in

image_zps09qwwpdq.jpg

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HOGIE, when I rebuilt my calipers on the dime I used mother's polishing compound on both the caliper inner walls and piston, had no issues and my brakes are solid, and my calipers were nasty and rusty, you could try that as a finish?

Thanks for the heads up. If it looks like it needs it I will

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  • 2 weeks later...

fantastic explanation of a really tricky question, many thanks Dave d

Not sure which question you're regarding to Dave but your welcome..... But your probably referring to something Wayno said, he's got all the knowledge

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  • 1 month later...

Been a little while since I update.

 

Major details:

Brakes are bleed and done. Very good pedal

Exhaust leak fixed. Need to address loose down pipe flange

Shift linkage is cleaned, lubed, moves freely into all gears.

Drained and filled trans and rear end. Tranny fluid was very smelly but so I'm going to drain and fill again after a few miles.

Pulled floor mats and scrubbed the floor. There are rust issues that I'll address later.

Sewed up a new vinyl seat cover and repadded the seat. Installed just so happy with outcome of my first try(521 is next). Making door panels (and maybe kick panels) this week sometime.

Installed new front turnsignal lenses and one of the gently used rear taillights lenses that Wayno gave me. Thanks again Wayne.

Needs a bath, buff and polish

 

Issues I have now. Headlights and brake lights don't work. Headlights is probably corrosion at the switch. Brake lights definitely corrosion.

 

I need a brake hydraulic pressure switch for the rake lights. Does anyone know where to find these for 320?

 

Here is the only pic I took today

image_zpstykyjd2b.jpg

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Cycle the brights switch on the floor before you start pulling the light switch apart, most the time that is the issue with the headlights, if you don't have one then that is likely the issue.

They made the brake light pressure switches for lots of vehicles back then, go to the parts store and tell them what you need, find an old guy if possible that knows what you are talking about, I actually delete that switch on all my trucks, I wire in a pedal switch.

DSCN3011.JPG

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I like the pedal actuated switch also, and you don't need to make the extra bracket like Wayno has. Just screw the new switch into the hole currently occupied by the pedal stop and use the switch as the new stop.

 

If you want to get a hydraulic switch instead, a VW bug switch will work and can be found anywhere.

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I like the pedal actuated switch also, and you don't need to make the extra bracket like Wayno has. Just screw the new switch into the hole currently occupied by the pedal stop and use the switch as the new stop.

 

If you want to get a hydraulic switch instead, a VW bug switch will work and can be found anywhere.

I couldn't do that, I would have had to drill the hole out larger to get the switch in and I didn't want to do that on the U320, plus the switch in the photo is another 1/4 inch closer to the pedal than the pedal stop bracket hole is, I didn't want the brake pedal to be higher the the clutch pedal, I suppose I could have welded a tab on the brake pedal arm but that is just another modification I didn't want to make, everything I have done to this truck so far is reversible, I have every part I have removed and replaced with a modified part.

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Rockauto has brake light switches listed for 68 520 that looks like the right part. I'm going to take those numbers down to local parts store and see what they can get this week.

 

Simple and effective, but with a small delay while pressure is building in the system.

 

I couldn't do that, I would have had to drill the hole out larger to get the switch in and I didn't want to do that on the U320, plus the switch in the photo is another 1/4 inch closer to the pedal than the pedal stop bracket hole is, I didn't want the brake pedal to be higher the the clutch pedal, I suppose I could have welded a tab on the brake pedal arm but that is just another modification I didn't want to make, everything I have done to this truck so far is reversible, I have every part I have removed and replaced with a modified part.

There are plenty of other switches out there with different lengths and threads. GM, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Ford, have all use these switches over the years.

 

Worst case scenario (within the boundaries of keeping it stock) would be to re-tap the threads to 10mm and use a Toyota switch, which is plenty long.

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