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510 wagon lowering


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I've read that you can install blocks between the rear end & leaf springs. Who sells the blocks or where's a good place to get them? I was thinking 2 inch blocks.. Is that too low? I have 280 z front coil overs that have been set up, I was wondering about the rear. Does anyone have a pic of a goon or your goon that has been lowered 2 inches? Any info about lowering the rear would be helpful..

Thanks, Greg

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Just joel makes lowering blocks for our wagons. You can try shooting him a PM. Or you can just cruise over to your local oreilly auto and buy some 2 inch lowering blocks.

 

Hopefully someone remembers what diameter u bolts you need.

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I think 2" is reasonable and do-able. Just adjust the front to match the back. Some like a slight rake with the front just slightly lower than the rear. Any amount of front lowering will upset the front end alignment, specially the toe in. Be sure to adjust them out or it will affect handling and worse will just slowly eat the tires. Lowering the rear will change the driveshaft angles and this will upset the U joints and they may vibrate. Some lowering blocks have a built in angle to compensate for this. If not, you can shim them yourself. If you notice an unexplained vibration afterwards don't just put up with it, it can be easily fixed.

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Same rear axle on the 510 so should fit equally well.

 

Keep in mind that you are now sitting, and more importantly riding, 2" lower. That's 2" closer to everything moving on the ground. On my 710 goon I slipped an extra leaf on. A shorter flatter one that doesn't add lift but resists bending. I would say the rear is maybe slightly stiffer than the front. It does not bottom out.

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I've read that you can install blocks between the rear end & leaf springs. Who sells the blocks or where's a good place to get them? I was thinking 2 inch blocks.. Is that too low? I have 280 z front coil overs that have been set up, I was wondering about the rear. Does anyone have a pic of a goon or your goon that has been lowered 2 inches? Any info about lowering the rear would be helpful..

Thanks, Greg

Greg,

There's some decent discussions going on here:

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24969-1970-datsun-510-wagon-lowering-options-and-rear-setups/

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Thanks, I'm going to check into all the feedback. The goons look sick lowered but I can't stand rubbing or can't have anyone in the back because it'll rub. Been there, done that. I'm going to wait till I have all the parts together to do the lowering. I seen someone asking the question, "can you swap a irs on the wagon from a no-wagon 510?" Seems like it could interfere with the gas tank.. Idk.

Thanks, Greg

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Your right datzenmike... Going to take my time & research on it, don't want to be re-doing it. im going to check into some goon builds & see how they lowered them with different rim & tire sizes. Trying to get a gauge of where I'm going to be.

Thanks, Greg

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I flipped the overload leaf in my wagon and it about 2 inches or more. Also ran 15x7 et5 with 195/50/15 tires with no rub at all even with a lot of weight in it. Only rub was driveshaft hit on very hard launches.

 

I found that I was getting driveshaft/pumpkin slapping once I went to 2.5" inches of drop with a similar wheel tire combo. This was with only an L16, however. It is entirely possible that when you have an L20 or something with more torque than a 1.6 you start to see axle wrap with even less effort. 

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I found that I was getting driveshaft/pumpkin slapping once I went to 2.5" inches of drop with a similar wheel tire combo. This was with only an L16, however. It is entirely possible that when you have an L20 or something with more torque than a 1.6 you start to see axle wrap with even less effort. 

 

like a vg30 got it all the time at 2 inches so went to one with air shocks in the back 

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The taller the lowering blocks the easier it is to twist the axle on the leaf springs. The first year Camaro had terrible wheel hop. The cure was staggering the shocks, one in front and one behind the axle. Kids used to add track bars on street cars even if they were not needed. A stiffer spring will help resist torque wrap induced hop. 

 

Hitting the body with the differential seems more of a squat problem than the differential rotating upward. The body just sags under the take off. Good stiff shocks will usually fix and stiffer springs will for sure. 

 

I have a 710 and dropped at least 2-1/2 probably 3 inches and never had the diff touch the body. I did add an extra leaf and modified a pair of truck shocks for the back. Very firm on bumps, but at speed on a highway it takes a LOT to compress them and make them work. Any more and they might be objectionable in town where there are pavement bumps and pot holes but on the highway where everything is spread out it's heaven to drive. 

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