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1972 Datsun 510


Sastis

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if you Emergency flasher and turn signal work then don't worry about the flasher cans. they both working. If not then let us know. but has nothing to do with the highbeams

 

when people put a aftermarket steeringwheel on they need to make sure the contack for the highbeam  grounds so it triggers the relay.

 

 

screw? I don't know what you mean

 

 

the highbeam/light relay is on back side of the passenger side strut. one can wiggle the relay in HOPES for a Hail Mary and it starts working.

 

 

I had a 510 I got and my highs didn't work. Find out both lamps were bad. WTF chance of that happening

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if you Emergency flasher and turn signal work then don't worry about the flasher cans. they both working. If not then let us know. but has nothing to do with the highbeams

 

when people put a aftermarket steeringwheel on they need to make sure the contack for the highbeam grounds so it triggers the relay.

 

 

screw? I don't know what you mean

 

 

the highbeam/light relay is on back side of the passenger side strut. one can wiggle the relay in HOPES for a Hail Mary and it starts working.

I'm sorry haniz. I meant the screws or bolts that hold the steering plastic column together. Emergency lights are not working.
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turn signals work??????????

 

I notice my turnsignal did not work when the emergency switch was missing I did not have a spare so I jumpered the wires where the emergency switch would be. then they worked.(need the diagram)

 

 

I wonrder how the previous OWNERS DO DUMB ASS SHIT LIKE THIS. Such a simple car

correction, I had someone flip switch to high beam I do hear a click sound on the passenger side by the fuse box. Turn signal work, but the side mark are not. I believe they were never meant to blink, correct me if I'm wrong. Again emergency light does not work, but turn signal work and low beam. No dice on the high beam, I just might need new high beam. I'll go at it with a voltmeter. I will report back.
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 for the high beams get a test light. 5$

 

ground alligator end

then take pointer to the back of the highbeam lamp. with lights OFF both sides will light. now put lights ON and put the beam in High. now one side of lamp the light will go to ground and the test lamp will be OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!  this will show if switching system works.

 

 

you can do this with the outter low/hgh lamp also.  all 3 connections will light the test lamp with lights OFF

with light switched pulled to ON low beam one of the 3 will go to ground. then with it on HIGH another goes to ground and the other switches back to lighting the lamp.

 

 

So if you hear a click then the relay is tripping. But I believe its most likely corrosion on the contanks inside the relay.. If you have a spare or one can open up the can and find clean the contacks.

 

well your car is legal enuff anyways.

 

 

try swapping those 2 flasher cans underneath to see if the proplem moves on the emergency/turn signals.

 

 

wiring looks ok on this car so don't be a newbie dumbass splicing wires and shit.  we will tell you how to do it with out ruin wiring harness

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for the high beams get a test light. 5$

 

ground alligator end

then take pointer to the back of the highbeam lamp. with lights OFF both sides will light. now put lights ON and put the beam in High. now one side of lamp the light will go to ground and the test lamp will be OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!  this will show if switching system works.

 

 

you can do this with the outter low/hgh lamp also.  all 3 connections will light the test lamp with lights OFF

with light switched pulled to ON low beam one of the 3 will go to ground. then with it on HIGH another goes to ground and the other switches back to lighting the lamp.

 

 

So if you hear a click then the relay is tripping. But I believe its most likely corrosion on the contanks inside the relay.. If you have a spare or one can open up the can and find clean the contacks.

 

well your car is legal enuff anyways.

 

 

try swapping those 2 flasher cans underneath to see if the proplem moves on the emergency/turn signals.

 

 

wiring looks ok on this car so don't be a newbie dumbass splicing wires and shit.  we will tell you how to do it with out ruin wiring harness

that's why I'm ask for help first haniz. Gotta put this back together so I can drive it. Already order door locks and weatherstrip rubber for the door. I have the windshield wiper motor and assembly. But I don't have the wiper arms. Does anyone know if the RHD wiper arm will work with the US. If its a stupid question, I had to ask. I rather ask than not. My priority are:

Replace rubber

Working lights

Gut and clean the interior

Tune up

Timing

Replace radiator

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  • 2 weeks later...

timing plate haniz, disregard the vacuum advance being broken. I r noob, I'm going to redo my time chain I can hear rattle in the FRONT of the timing cover. Haniz, will these kit work:

Tsubaki

http://m.ebay.com/itm/371350262719?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&_mwBanner=1OR

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/251262139512?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&_mwBanner=1

Osk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just had same issue with high beams (among other electrical gremlins!), relay on PASSENGER SIDE strut tower, facing fuse box, outer relay closer to fender........heard clicking when high beams switched on, pulled relay off car, found TWO of the wires on underside where the wire/solder had broken!  Inside relay, contact set could be bad or broken wire......pry tiny tabs away, open up, check it out!  Then.................

 

On ALL relays AND fusebox............soak in white vinegar over night!  (you have to open up all the relays, do NOT soak with lids on!).  The vinegar cleans all the corrosion off electrical stuff.  Once soaked, I wash down with electrical contact cleaner spray (aerosol) or Brakleen, make sure all is dry, reassemble, should work great again!  I just re-did ALL of the relays & switches on a 1970 that my buddy just bought, everything works now!

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