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260z RB25DET swap


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#21 CGraves

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Posted 13 December 2016 - 10:03 PM

Okay so small update. I ended up getting some motor mounts as an early Christmas present and I cut and re welded my oilpan to make it a rear sump. All I need to do now is modify my oil pickup and I'll be able to get the engine set in the car. Unfortunately I need someone to TIG weld my pickup so that set me back on progress.

Now onto my big question. How the FUCK do you remove the IMSA 3 piece spoiler? I got the middle part off ez pz but the edge piece have a stud inside them and I can't figure out how to get a wrench on the bolt outside of cutting a big hole in the rear quarter. I spent almost 11 hours trying to remove a single piece today. I will literally PayPal someone $10 if they can tell me what I'm missing here.

#22 paradime

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Posted 13 December 2016 - 11:21 PM

The outside pieces are often glued on. Not sure if this is the same product as yours but it's also posable it's screwed in from the outside and the heads were mudded over before painting. Grab a magnet and fiddle around. 

 

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The blocked list is getting bigger-but you were the first.

 

 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=GZtp6PiFlTI

 

 

http://youtu.be/H4rYbyudrhA?t=55s


#23 CGraves

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Posted 14 December 2016 - 04:57 PM

I got them out. I can't imagine how in the world this was put in given how difficult it was to take out but I digress. I have no idea why that metal was cut up but since it was already cut I decided to bend it so I could get my hand a little farther in there and I barely managed to squeeze it. I'll be bending the metal and fixing it up before I put that interior panel back on. You can see the small hole that was drilled in the top right on the second picture for the stud. There was a nut on the stud on the other side of that piece of metal.

 

I did find a surprise on the 2 end pieces however. They were dated! One said 11/11/85 and the other had 11/14/85 written on the inside. I have no idea if this spoiler is actually that old but if it is then it's in amazing condition given the age and it fits perfectly. Does anyone have any idea how much it might be worth?

 

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I also have a rear sump oil pan now. This was actually a pretty simple process all you have to do is cut it all the way around flat to the baffles and just flip it. Thankfully Nissan decided to pre drill the blocks for rear sump for some reason so all I had to do was a take a punch and knock the brass plug out and swap the dipstick with the plug and plug the front hole. I'm gonna have to trim some of the baffle away to get my pickup and dipstick to work but that's no problem.

 

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Also my gauges arrived yesterday. I ended up going with the autometer GT series for the Speedo and tach and the automarine white series for my oil pressure, boost, and water temp.

 

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As it stands I need an intercooler, exhaust, driveshaft, and mount my catchcan and fuel pump and run lines and I should be ready to wire it up and crank it.

 

Also would a side exit exhaust on the front fender just behind the tire be a bad idea? Are there any problems I would run into doing this aside from it being loud?

 

For a price tally currently I've spent $2400 for the engine+trans, and $1150 for the gauges, fuel pump, surge tank, nismo FPR, and new timing belt. I sold my old engine+trans+gauges for $400 so I'm at a grand total of $3150 so far.



#24 Bleach

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Posted 15 December 2016 - 12:47 PM

Do you have any recommendations for where to purchase an RB25DET?


Thank you Ted!
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#25 CGraves

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Posted 15 December 2016 - 02:16 PM

@bleach

 

I bought mine from All JDM Motors in Charleston South Carolina and the quality is awesome so far. They did a compression test on the motor when they got the front clip skyline that it came from and we did another one when I was there in person and it passed. Of course I haven't cranked it yet so we'll know if the motor gets a final pass in like 2 weeks.

 

I'd recommend either them or JapaneseClassics in VA. Don't just check importers websites though, actually call them and ask because 9/10 times they aren't very proactive with updating their inventories. 



#26 CGraves

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Posted 17 December 2016 - 05:03 PM

Update!

 

Drove for 9 hours today to pick up a mega deal. Freddy RB25 intake+Q45 TB+Greddy fuel rail+Injector Dynamic 725CC injectors. 

 

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And now a question. Does anyone know how to get these clips for the louvers out? I'm hoping they can come out without removing the hatch glass but I'm not opposed to taking it out because I have to fix some rust on the hatch anyway.

 

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#27 Bleach

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Posted 17 December 2016 - 05:56 PM

YES! I love those intake manifolds. So much better than stock.  :thumbup:


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#28 CGraves

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Posted 17 December 2016 - 08:30 PM

Yeah disregarding the power gains from this it's just a nice easy way to tidy up your engine bay. Unfortunately this won't be going on the motor for a while. Part of the fun is hunting the deals. I'm going to keep scouring the junkyards for a cheap turbo I can rebuild and a Z32 ECU to tune on. My goal is $5000 for 400WHP with this build. Also a stock RB is enough to get me in trouble for the time being. 

 

I'm still contemplating doing a fender exit exhaust so if anyone has reasons that I shouldn't do it aside from being loud I'd love to hear them.

 

Also to tie the post off here's a little panoramic shot I took of the garage with my old mans car too. Might have to spend a day cleaning instead of working on the car.  ;)

 

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#29 CGraves

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 08:36 PM

Does anyone have any strong opinions on a brand of coilovers for the S30? I'm going for maximum low here and would like the option to lay this thing on the frame. I'd prefer to be into the entire setup for under $1500 for the coils and hopefully some camber plates. I'm not scared of cutting and welding so that's not a problem.



#30 CGraves

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Posted 24 December 2016 - 12:02 PM

It's almost Christmas!

 

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Unfortunately somehow I never figured out you were suppose to trim your trans ears before you put the tranny in so I had to trim a little bit with the tranny in which results in a less than perfect fit but I'm not worried, it's close enough that I can make it work.

 

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I also decided to relocate my battery to the back and put my surge tank where the battery use to reside. On a related side note holy shit AN fittings cost a lot of money.

 

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Now I need to wait on my intercooler and driveshaft to get here and I can do a final assembly on the car. After that it's wiring and I'm done!



#31 JGREEZY

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 06:33 PM

Congrats bro welcome to the world of BOOST youre making some great progress I did a turbo swap too I got talked into a 2JZ and LOVE it you will too. oh yeah I found you on instagram  :thumbup:



#32 CGraves

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 01:44 PM

@Greezy

Thanks man I appreciate the kind words! Followed you back on instagram as well!

As for car updates nothing has really happened lately. Just waiting on my intercooler and driveshaft which is taking a while cause of the holidays. Hope to be done in about 2 weeks.

#33 brapattack

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 03:42 PM

The AN fittings are killing me right now too!



#34 CGraves

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 09:19 PM

@brap

 

Yeah it's almost insulting at some point. I think I spent about $140 in fittings for the surge tank and my intake.

 

Also side update. I'm going to pick up a spare suspension tomorrow so I can start working on coilovers sometime soon.



#35 paradime

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 09:31 PM

The welds on your surge tank are beautiful. Is that your work?

 

A clean fuel system can run into serious money these days, but Russell Twist-Lok fittings are a relative bargain. Aeromotive stuff cost three times as much. One 8 AN 90 degree end piece like those are $45 each. Hard to imagine. 


294_MI-small-header-gif_2.gif

 

 


The blocked list is getting bigger-but you were the first.

 

 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=GZtp6PiFlTI

 

 

http://youtu.be/H4rYbyudrhA?t=55s


#36 brapattack

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 08:04 AM

I don't know much about the rb25det motors, is there a clear benefit over a l28et?  Seems like the base HP is about the same but I'm guessing the newer motor is more efficient and easier to upgrade?



#37 CGraves

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 12:47 PM

@paradime

 

Nah I bought the surge tank from a shop. I'll be sure to pass along the kind words next time I'm in however! 

 

@brap

 

Base HP for an L28ET is around 180HP if I remember correctly? Base HP for an RB25 is around 250HP but it's also a lot easier to squeeze HP out of the RB. As it stands for the intake+fuel rail+TB+injectors I'm $750 into it. I'll be using a Z32 ECU with a nistune chip for tuning and that should run me around $300 for the whole setup. Then throw a decent Holset on there for like $300-$400 and I'll be at like 450 crank for less than $1500 in mods and keep it reliable. My buddy has been running the same setup for 9 years as a daily driver and hasn't encountered any problems so far aside from a little shaft play in the turbo.



#38 paradime

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 01:20 AM

No doubt, the RB is a sleeping giant. 


294_MI-small-header-gif_2.gif

 

 


The blocked list is getting bigger-but you were the first.

 

 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=GZtp6PiFlTI

 

 

http://youtu.be/H4rYbyudrhA?t=55s


#39 Bleach

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Posted 02 January 2017 - 11:22 AM

The L28et was great in its day but its old tech now. Doesn't rev very high, low compression (and doesn't do well if you raise the static compression), difficult to work on the manifolds having them both on the same side of the engine. Heat problems with the manifolds.

 

The turbo is so close to the block that the cyl 4, 5 will often run hotter and detonate on higher boost settings. This eventually destroys the main bearings.

 

L28 is dated but on a lower budget it can be a good alternative. I'm planning to go with the L28 and hope for 250whp and keep it running for many years.


Thank you Ted!
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#40 Draker

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Posted 02 January 2017 - 08:33 PM

First time checking out this build.. looks rad! Nice shop space too!


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