edekalil Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 I have these two adapters for a Weber 32/36 dgv carb. I plan to put the carb on my goon that has a L16. I want to use the stock linkage. I would guess the shorter adaptor would work better using the stock linkage. I do have the cable linkage adaptor as well. Is there any advantage using one adaptor over the other. Here is the carb which needs some cleaning up. I do not know what jetting works best for using this on an L16, any info or advice would be welcomed. I have posted some of this befor way back but now I am getting close to using it here soon. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Will the hood close with the taller one? Will the linkage not bend up to the tall one? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 I use the taller one and will fit the L16. if a L20 there is a shorter aircleaner. I like the taller 1 pc one and I put the carrb on and clean up the edges. and I also do this with the manifold so the air goes cleanly around the corners (mattch port it) the 2 holes in the manifold Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 one piece is better less prone to vacuum leaks. just don't tighten too much Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Maybe use locktite on threads. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 The tall adapter definitely makes more power, but as stated already, it will only clear the hood if installed on a L16 or L18. Using it on a L20B will definitely result in hood interference problems. Use the tall adapter on your L16. For linkage, use the linkage piece off the stock carburetor and install it on the Weber with red Loctite on the throttle shaft threads. Do not overtighten it. Make some 3/4" spacers for the bracket that bolts to the firewall so the linkage rod doesn't pop out. You can also cut and lengthen the shaft itself if you want a cleaner look. Just make sure to mark the clocking of the rod before you cut it. Stock Weber jetting should be fine to get you running, but some tuning will probably be in order, especially if you drive it in the winter. Which carb are you using? If it has an electrical fuel shutoff solenoid, finding the right jet for that may be challenging, but try the stock one first. 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 I've always used the tall one, and then cut the material out of the stock manifold & heat isolator, making it one large oval to match the adaptor. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 That helps too. Good idea. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Thank you all for the advice. I will get working on it and post pics. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Well I am using a L16 that had been rebuilt. I have an extra intake manifold I will mod to fit the bottom of the adaptor/ riser opening. And have some old carbs around that I will take off the part the stock linkage will hook to. It might be a couple of weeks befor I get back home but I will keep all informed on the progress. Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 "For linkage, use the linkage piece off the stock carburetor and install it on the Weber with red Loctite on the throttle shaft threads. Do not overtighten it. Make some 3/4" spacers for the bracket that bolts to the firewall so the linkage rod doesn't pop out. You can also cut and lengthen the shaft itself if you want a cleaner look. Just make sure to mark the clocking of the rod before you cut it." Any tips for getting that stock linkage piece off? It has a weird nut that has two slots on either side instead of being a standard hex bolt. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
Humboldt Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Please disregard my last post. I sacrificed a Harbor Freigh Wood chisel (vise grips on the handle) on the stubborn sob and finally got iy loose! 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 That red loctite is there for a reason, so be sure to put a drop on the threads when reassembling the linkage. 1 Quote Link to comment
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