L16 piston & block damage

[ansonowicz]

Flywheel bolts are not stuck they are torqued from 100 to 120 ft lbs. Put ratchet on and kick down on the handle... HARD.

I had less trouble with an axlenut on my 4wd 4runner than I did these flywheel bolts after years of wheeling.  120ft lbs should be cake in comparison.  But regardless, I have the utmost respect to you guys on this forum.  I dont' want to sound like a fanboi, because in the Subaru EJ25 turbo world, I would say I'm pretty well knowledged.  But here it's all foreign to me. so Again..Thanks everyone!

[flatcat19]

Line up, guys. This guy's sucking asses.

[DanielC]

flywheel bolt removal.

[banzai510(hainz)]

yup that's how I did mine

[datzenmike]

Exerting a steady torque won't get it done. (easily that is) You need a sudden 'hit' to snap them loose. I've popped flywheels off of engines laying on the ground in wrecking yards, with the heads off. No compression. Set the ratchet at 9:00 and stomp down hard on the handle. POP and on to the next.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Do you know anyone with a CO2 bottle? If you can find one, they usually have 300-500 psi regulators. Adjust the psi to 300 and try it with a rattle gun.

 

Ancient Chinese secret.

[shacks510]

Odd never seen the top vent on anything but the L20B and up

My L16 had the vent hole on the top. No clue where it came from, truck maybe (not a truck guru)? It was a front sump motor judging by the screw jammed in the nub of where a dip stick tube was. Also has the four 6mm bolt holes around the oil filter boss.

 

I also had an L18 parts motor too with the vent hole on the top; was also originally front sump.

[datzenmike]

Import engine I guess.

[ansonowicz]

Exerting a steady torque won't get it done. (easily that is) You need a sudden 'hit' to snap them loose. I've popped flywheels off of engines laying on the ground in wrecking yards, with the heads off. No compression. Set the ratchet at 9:00 and stomp down hard on the handle. POP and on to the next.

 

As scary as it was, there was this one time the main crank bolt wouldn't come off my subaru motor.  One trick was to get the breaker bar, line it up against the subframe, and crank the starter.  Witha  loud bang, the "sudden hit" would crack that sucker loose.  and of course you need two people, someone to kind of hold the bar steady while the other runs the key in the ignition.  One of the most gratifying, anxious, and reckless moments of my life  :w00t:

[flatcat19]

As scary as it was, there was this one time the main crank bolt wouldn't come off my subaru motor.  One trick was to get the breaker bar, line it up against the subframe, and crank the starter.  Witha  loud bang, the "sudden hit" would crack that sucker loose.  and of course you need two people, someone to kind of hold the bar steady while the other runs the key in the ignition.  One of the most gratifying, anxious, and reckless moments of my life  :w00t:

 

Can't really do that with the motor out of the car...just like OP has.

 

 

I have used your trick many times with great success though.

Anyone who has ever done as little as a timing belt on any Toyota can attest to this.

[Draker]

Can't really do that with the motor out of the car...just like OP has.

 

 

I have used your trick many times with great success though.

Anyone who has ever done as little as a timing belt on any Toyota can attest to this.

 

Ditto. Works good.. just verify which way the engine rotates first.. or you could be in for a bad couple days.

[ansonowicz]

Acquired a U67 head this weekend....just so happens it was still attached to L20B.  Question now is......drop in L20B/U67 combo or stick with LZ18 flat top hybrid bottom end?  

 

My hopes (and they sometimes get crushed) is to keep this daily-able.  Single sidedraft weber or something haven't quite decided.  Not looking for crazy top end performance just some usable low end grunt.  It's mated a 5speed dogleg, just not sure which specifically.

[flatcat19]

There is o my a couple of doglegs it can be attached to. I doubt you have the long one. 63A from a 200sx/hl510.

 

As far as the L18 goes...you want to send the crank to me. I know you do.

[datzenmike]

Acquired a U67 head this weekend....just so happens it was still attached to L20B.  Question now is......drop in L20B/U67 combo or stick with LZ18 flat top hybrid bottom end?

Right now I would put it in and see if it runs. Could be scrap. Not ready for 5 speed yet, too many variables to sort out first without worrying about the transmission.

 

Use the L18 oil pan on the L20B. Keep the L20B clutch and flywheel and take the release bearing collar off the 5 speed clutch arm and put on your 521 transmission. The 5 speed release collar is matched to the L20B clutch... your L18 release collar is matched to the L18 clutch... they may not be the same. This will limit the mixing of miss matched parts and get you going. If you want to run the 5 speed you need a modified cross member anyway and on top of everything the 5 speed may also be junk or have problems.

 

 

That L18 needs way more than an L20B head swapped onto it.

 

Get the L20B running (if it will) and than fix the L18.

 

 

My hopes (and they sometimes get crushed) is to keep this daily-able.  Single sidedraft weber or something haven't quite decided.  Not looking for crazy top end performance just some usable low end grunt.  It's mated a 5speed dogleg, just not sure which specifically.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

These cars and trucks are so simple to work on. What would it hurt to install it and see how/if it runs?

 

How much would you be out if it didn't run well? Mostly just time, and not a lot of it at that.

 

Do a cursory inspection beforehand to try and catch obvious problems first.

[ansonowicz]

These cars and trucks are so simple to work on. What would it hurt to install it and see how/if it runs?

 

How much would you be out if it didn't run well? Mostly just time, and not a lot of it at that.

 

Do a cursory inspection beforehand to try and catch obvious problems first

 

This project of a truck needs a lot of work before it's drivable.  Fuel lines, brake system, rotted electrical.  The other day I bit the bullet and ripped out all electrical to find brittle insulation, chewed up copper, etc.  Long story short, it might be a while before I actually get it going, but I prefer to get the powertrain out of the way then focus on the other stuff.

 

Since this 5speed / L18 / 210 head combo was supposedly working prior to my ownership, like Mike said, mixing and matching too many things could get messy (even though he's only referring to the throwout bearing & clutch/flywheel ).  I at least have this block to decide what to do. 

 

Slowly but surely.

[banzai510(hainz)]

You ripped the whole electrical out???????????????????????????????

[ansonowicz]

You ripped the whole electrical out???????????????????????????????

 

Under hood, yes.  it was a disaster.  Behind dash **looks** okay, but many cracked connectors, poor wire taps, etc.  Going EZ or Painless with the help of a friend.

[Charlie69]

This is the fly wheel tool I use.

 

 

http://www.mofoco.com/item/EMPI_5003_ENGINE_FLYWHEEL_LOCK_TOOL_VW_BUG_BUS_6_12V/420/c64

[gene knight]

I had to sleeve 2 of my cylinders in my L18 cuz of rust in motor cuz it was in bed of parts truck when I went to Las Cruces,N.M. back in 2005 to buy grimace.