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L16 piston & block damage


ansonowicz

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I've been lurking this forum for quite some time now.  After many many years, the ol' 521 is getting some attention.  After disassembling the L16, I've discovered some major piston damage (walls look okay until I remove the rotating assembly).   This is an original L16 with matching 210 head. I'm open to getting another block & head in there (limited funds for this project) but availability seems limited.

 

 

1) Not knowing the history of this block, if this gets resurfaced, how far is too far?  Based on the scratches around the cylinder, it looks like it was poorly resurfaced with a belt sander or something (after I removed the gasket)  Any markings or reference points to see how much room is left for another resurface?

 

2) Any somewhat modern pistons still around for this L16 with matching overbore rings available?  

 

IMG_5936_zpseoqjhyq1.jpg

 

IMG_5933_zpsnc5oqxw2.jpg

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You can still get pistons and for this. Just depends on how the walls look. If they are not scratched up.. the block might be find to reuse.

 

Thanks Draker!

 

Even if they are mildly scratched, they'll be bored out and fresh again.  I hope to get the pistons out in the next day or two.  I'm mostly concerned about resurfacing too much and it causing issues with the head/valves

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First of all this is not an L16 it's an L20b. Look behind the dip stick handle for the stamp at top of block just below the head.

 

Detonation will do this damage. L20B with tiny 210 head is 9.23 compression. This would ping like hell and no wonder the piston is punched

 

The walls I see look too smooth, probably been rebuilt. Measure the diameter of the bore across the top. It will be at least 85mm but if over bored could be 85.5mm

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The top is the best as this is not scrubbed by the rings and is the original bore. L18s are the same bore as the L20B.... 85mm

 

 

IMG_5946_zpsluxcaouc.jpg

 

 

This raised boss is not common to the L18 and is, I think, a much later casting. The L18 was used into the 80 on 720 in Australia and other parts of the world.   

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Update:  Cylinder walls feel smooth and no major damage.  Rod bearings look great, no visible damage to the crank (as far as connecting rods go).  Haven't been able to remove crank yet for further inspection because flywheel bolts are stuck. Like stuck stuck stuck, will need to soak in some PB blaster and figure out a way to hold down the block & crank while getting breaker bar on that thing. 

 

Pistons and rings, all sorts of carnage! can't believe the broken bits didn't score the walls.  All of the pistons measure 85mm, and the rods have datsun/nissan markings stamped on them.

 

 

 

IMG_6074_zpstp0wj5up.jpg

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Update:  Cylinder walls feel smooth and no major damage.  Rod bearings look great, no visible damage to the crank (as far as connecting rods go).  Haven't been able to remove crank yet for further inspection because flywheel bolts are stuck. Like stuck stuck stuck, will need to soak in some PB blaster and figure out a way to hold down the block & crank while getting breaker bar on that thing. 

 

Stick a hammer handle in the block, rotate the crank over until it wedges and the crank won't turn, Use the right socket on a 1/2' breaker bar and use a floor jack handle or a long piece of pipe for more leverage.  If you have an impact wrench it may or may not work.

 

Pistons and rings, all sorts of carnage! can't believe the broken bits didn't score the walls.  All of the pistons measure 85mm, and the rods have datsun/nissan markings stamped on them.

 

Bore it .040" over, as mentioned the late Z/ZX are 86mm STD.

 

 

 

IMG_6074_zpstp0wj5up.jpg

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Stick a hammer handle in the block, rotate the crank over until it wedges and the crank won't turn, Use the right socket on a 1/2' breaker bar and use a floor jack handle or a long piece of pipe for more leverage.  If you have an impact wrench it may or may not work.

 

Never thought about wedging a handle inside the block!  My impact definitely did not work.  I have a 24" breaker bar that should do the trick.  

 

 

Bore it .040" over, as mentioned the late Z/ZX are 86mm STD.

 

 

Got it.

 

 

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