rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 I just installed a different engine in my 510, but sadly it makes a terrible noise when I run it. Primed the oil circuit before starting and started it up. Check out the video to hear what it sounds like. Not what I was hoping for. Does anyone here recognize the noise? https://youtu.be/UXSmWmSGa3 Details: - makes no noise when just cranking with disabled spark, but noise is very loud when running - doesn't go away with engine warming up, it does seem to get a little less at low RPMs when warm - doesn't seem to change with any one spark lead disconnected - I adjusted the valves - the engine hasn't run for many years prior to installing it Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Video no werky. probably a rod gone or going. Louder under load quieter when let off the gas??? 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Fix yer video. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Fix it 1 Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 https://youtu.be/UXSmWmSGa3E Maybe this will work Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 I just found out cyl 3 is the problem. The piston seems to be hitting the spark plug, to the point that it closed the plug gap?! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Rod bearing is fucked up. Only a matter of time. If you drive it hard enough the rod big end will weld to the crank, snap off below the piston and go through the side of the block. Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Thanks Mike. Definitely not driving it while it sounds like this. Is replacing the bearing simply a matter of dropping the oil pan, taking off the cap for the #3 rod and replacing the bearing shells, lubing them up and reattaching everything? Or am I missing something complicated that'll require me to tear the entire engine down? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 I just found out cyl 3 is the problem. The piston seems to be hitting the spark plug, to the point that it closed the plug gap?! I was going to say that it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. But then why the F... is the plug hitting the piston? Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Based on some googling, apparently when a rod bearing goes bad, the extra play can be enough to let the piston "kiss" the head, and the plug on its way there.. I had a serious WTF moment too when I pulled that plug and saw it was all mangled. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 ck the valve lash? not that its goingto be the proplem Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Plug damage can be too long a reach (compare to another good plug) Can also be piece of broken piston in the combustion chamber. The damaged bearing clearance would allow the piston to easily hit the plug on an open chamber head. It's VERY unlikely a bearing replacement will fix this. The crank journal is almost certainly totaled as well. I've removed bearings that are pounded to razor thinness. Some that were pounded out to the sides and some where there was no bearing left and the rod was on the journal. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 What was wrong with the old motor? And where did you get this junk from? Sounds like a rebuild of your old motor is a great plan. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Yup, major machine work needed to fix that one..... Depending on where the engine came from, it could also be that the last guy into it forgot to tighten one set of rod bolts. I never pick up a used engine without popping the pan & head to see what I just dropped $$ on, no matter what the seller told me. 1 Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 I bought the engine from another member here and I'm absolutely positive he didn't sell me the engine knowing it had this problem. That said, it's still a real bummer. The old engine has a snapped cam, and the bottom end seems to have coolant flow issues and is just overall tired, but no serious mechanical problems so far. The new engine was built by Rebello, has an A87 peanut head with a higher lift cam, stiffer valve springs and a spray bar setup. Maybe I can get the old bottom end rebuilt and put the new head on it.. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Rebello built motor tells me it got yarded on, HARD! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 something is not right. Freshly installed is different from Freshly rebuilt Hopefullyyou didnt pay alot of money for this motor. like 200$ would be a good price. Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Seller has contacted me and offered to let me return the engine plus all ancillaries for a full refund. 2 Quote Link to comment
rundwark Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Just got off the phone with seller and we've worked out something great. Instead of taking him up on the offer to nullify the sale, I'm going to have him take a look at the engine first. If it can be fixed for reasonable cost, he'll fix it at his expense, and if not he'll still give me a full refund. 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Ah...... Make sure he documents, with pictures what the problem was, what ALL the parts, like head, crank, & rods look like, before, and after the 'fixing'.. Remember, he already sold you a defective engine, and bandaiding it back together will just bite you in the ass down the line. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Sounds like your getting it all worked out. It's a bummer for sure. Are all the plugs the same? Maybe one is longer that the other and that's why it's hitting. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Draker, the L-series already takes a long plug. The chances of a really long plug, from a Toyota 1G (not imported into the US), or a long Ford plug is slim at best. Most likely broken piston chunks bouncing around in the chamber, or a broken valve head. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Missing cylinder I always ck the valve lash and make sure the pad didn't fall off. Maybe a valve seat fell out Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Go for the refund and keep looking. At minimum it will need a crank and a rod. You can't take the piston out without messing up the rings so new rings. Then the cylinder may be worn, so a quick hone job won't last. The piston may be fuckt from hitting the head and no good also, and then the head may be damaged. 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Your lucky the seller will work something out with you. 2 Quote Link to comment
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