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Loud noise from freshly installed engine


rundwark

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I just installed a different engine in my 510, but sadly it makes a terrible noise when I run it.

 

Primed the oil circuit before starting and started it up. Check out the video to hear what it sounds like. Not what I was hoping for.

 

Does anyone here recognize the noise?

 

https://youtu.be/UXSmWmSGa3

 

Details:

- makes no noise when just cranking with disabled spark, but noise is very loud when running

- doesn't go away with engine warming up, it does seem to get a little less at low RPMs when warm

- doesn't seem to change with any one spark lead disconnected

- I adjusted the valves

- the engine hasn't run for many years prior to installing it

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Thanks Mike. Definitely not driving it while it sounds like this.

 

Is replacing the bearing simply a matter of dropping the oil pan, taking off the cap for the #3 rod and replacing the bearing shells, lubing them up and reattaching everything? Or am I missing something complicated that'll require me to tear the entire engine down?

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Plug damage can be too long a reach (compare to another good plug) Can also be piece of broken piston in the combustion chamber. The damaged bearing clearance would allow the piston to easily hit the plug on an open chamber head.

 

 

It's VERY unlikely a bearing replacement will fix this. The crank journal is almost certainly totaled as well. I've removed bearings that are pounded to razor thinness. Some that were pounded out to the sides and some where there was no bearing left and the rod was on the journal.

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Yup, major machine work needed to fix that one.....

Depending on where the engine came from, it could also be that the last guy into it forgot to tighten one set of rod bolts.

 

I never pick up a used engine without popping the pan & head to see what I just dropped $$ on, no matter what the seller told me.

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I bought the engine from another member here and I'm absolutely positive he didn't sell me the engine knowing it had this problem. That said, it's still a real bummer.

 

The old engine has a snapped cam, and the bottom end seems to have coolant flow issues and is just overall tired, but no serious mechanical problems so far. The new engine was built by Rebello, has an A87 peanut head with a higher lift cam, stiffer valve springs and a spray bar setup. Maybe I can get the old bottom end rebuilt and put the new head on it..

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Just got off the phone with seller and we've worked out something great. Instead of taking him up on the offer to nullify the sale, I'm going to have him take a look at the engine first. If it can be fixed for reasonable cost, he'll fix it at his expense, and if not he'll still give me a full refund.

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Ah......

Make sure he documents, with pictures what the problem was, what ALL the parts, like head, crank, & rods look like, before, and after the 'fixing'..

Remember, he already sold you a defective engine, and bandaiding it back together will just bite you in the ass down the line.

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Draker, the L-series already takes a long plug.

The chances of a really long plug, from a Toyota 1G (not imported into the US), or a long Ford plug is slim at best.

 

Most likely broken piston chunks bouncing around in the chamber, or a broken valve head.

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Go for the refund and keep looking. At minimum it will need a crank and a rod. You can't take the piston out without messing up the rings so new rings.

 

Then the cylinder may be worn, so a quick hone job won't last. The piston may be fuckt from hitting the head and no good also, and then the head may be damaged.

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