The Retired 510

[Noflers]

Got to installing the Ermish rear coilovers with 200lb springs today, found out the cross member is slotted. I was able to get the camber at a much more reasonable angle and did my best to set the toe in the same position as it was before. I haven't driven it yet, but I can only assume it'll be a bit smoother. I have a set of 200lb springs (little softer than the current 640lb springs) to go on the zx struts when they get here (hopefully this week).

 

Bunch of great stuff going on here:

 

Cross member slots:

[Noflers]

I ended up going with a 3M product to seal the leaky seams in the trunk, now just need a dry day. 


I finally got tired of chasing down the windshield leaks and ordered new seals for the front and rear glass, and a headliner. figured I should tackle it all at once. Little worried about pulling my glass out, but in the worst case scenario, it looks like Rock Auto has new windshields for $220 or so, shipped.

I also pulled the old horn out of my part stash, cleaned the power and ground connections, added fresh wires an got it hooked up. Apparently I switched the power and ground up and it it blew the fuse during testing. I didn't think it mattered, I mean the wires are both green? Anyway, I switched the wires and it works flawlessly. The Datsun horn button I got off Ebay looks and feels like a happy meal toy, but it works!

I should have my zx struts on Tuesday, and I'm looking into fixing the track width issues that will come about. 14" wheel with +0 offset should clear just fine, right? I'm more worried about the track width, so my latest inner conflict is whether I should use wheel spacers, or adjustable LCA's. As far as studs being stressed further from using a spacer, is this an issue with the lightweight 510? Because of that thought, I'm leaning more towards the LCA's, but I'm looking for a little input. Anything to worry about with LCA's?

[Noflers]

I guess this wouldn't be a proper build unless I fucked something up...

 

Ground the spring perch off the ZX strut, going great until I rested the top of the strut on the ground while I smacked the bottom side of the spring perch with a hammer. It came off with just a couple blows, but when I flipped it back over the strut tube was marred and slightly bent out of shape. My master plan was to chamfer the hole, eliminating the top thread. That didn't work so well and I gave up on it, deciding I'm going to the machine shop with it. 

 

So that's where I stand. Everything looks fantastic, except the one strut tube... I'll throw a bunch of photos up once I get this sorted out...

[Noflers]

Well the ZX struts are ready to go on. The machine shop wasn't happy about this job at all. Lol. Got new wheel bearings, rotors, and brake pads all installed. I'm ready! I put together a good bolt toque guide for the zx strut swap: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OobKFrf9kZhe8drClZ45CitBE0P0QsQzf_chqqi_vRk/edit?usp=sharing

 

I found an old DQ article that talks about using the GM valve cover gasket to seal the tail lights. Problem, the DQ article doesn't even show the new gasket, only the original from the factory... They also say it's a direct fit, no cutting, but you definitely have to cut if you use the gaskets... Looking for a little guidance if someone knows how it's done... 

 

Got the new headliner, windshield and rear window seals done. Drastic change, the car actually feels comfortable to daily now! Eventually I'll get some good photos, probably going to edit this post with the photos when I get them. 

[the510keeper]

Looks good

[Noflers]

Looks good

Thank you much, been working hard...

 

ZX struts and all that done in the front! Running the Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable struts with a 200lb spring. The ride is much smoother with the 200lb springs on all four corners. Ride height wasn't changed, but I do need to readjust the camber as I'll be able to run with very little and still have plenty of fender clearance.

 

This is where I originally set the ride height, but I brought it up another 1.25" or so after install:

 

Installed (and those fender holes /: ) : 

 

Still a few spots left to re-stretch:

 

Here's a blast from the past:

 

Fresh new window rubber (with "pretty clean" trim installed, and still missing one wiper arm nut):

 

These are free and come with a set of springs, full brake setup with fresh pads, and fresh wheel bearings in the hub. Calipers and all!!! Come get them I have too many spare sets as is... Strut tubes are from a wagon if that matters to you.

 

Fortunately the tires clear the strut tube fine, but I'm still wanting to make up for my lost track with and think I might put some 195/55/15's on my 15x7 wheels. Alignment is way off, in the front and rear, needs to be fixed asap. I might get down with a cheap single stage paint here in the next few months, paint it terrible as is. Other than that, the car is coming along quite nicely. I'll get some photos of the interior in the next day or two, still need to install some trim and panels...

[Noflers]

Since it's the middle of the night, and I'm still up I decided to fill my mini dry erase board with something important, 510 shit.

I'll definitely be driving it more once I get a new rear diff, mine is on it's way out and it shows. Plus, LSD. Wheel spacers up front would be good too, I suppose.

 

And I'm honestly considering a cheap spray can paint job until I get some real paint on it (next year?)

 

 

And good night.

[Draker]

I might.... just MIGHT have a wiper nut. I'll see if I can stumble across it.

[Noflers]

That would be awesome, Draker. I have found them for the Z cars, I have a feeling they are the same...

 

These are real nice:

 

Are my images huge? Let me know if they're too obnoxious.

[hobospyder]

yours shows up same as mine on an actual computer. i think you're good. bigger gives better detail anyways

 

also, if they're the same as a 620 wiper nut, i have a few i can give up, will eventually have to replace but can cross that bridge when i get to it

[Noflers]

So I got tired of the fuel dumping out of the filler neck on left turns.

 

91-97 Ford Ranger Fuel filler neck. Found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131313135727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Theone I bought came with tubing you see in the photo, as well as the larger diameter tube that actually hooks up to the tank. The hose on my car happened to be somewhat new and was already cut to the correct length, so I used it, but the tube that comes with the neck would work just fine. The thin black tube is actually attached to a tube that has a smaller outside diameter than the shiny metal neck, for fuel re-circulation I believe.

 

I cut the tube at the second bend because it was poking the bottom of the fuel tank and I didn't want it to bind up.

I capped off the small black hose shown in the photo below, no need for two fuel re-circulators... 

 

The holes in the mount ring had to be enlarged and I I ground the bottom the of the ring so it has a flat spot allowing it to sit flush with the body. Other than those things, it bolts right in. FWIW, I only used two of the mounting holes to avoid drilling into the body.

 

I used the standard cap from Autozone and the fuel door clears just fine.

 

Nice, modern, threaded cap. And Now I can hit the left turns like no other! 

 

 

 

 

 

So here's the best part! The old filler neck:

 

It's hard to tell in the photos, but the metal sealing ring is very deformed (cause of the fuel spill), and that's most definitely a fence post with the 510 filler neck welded to it. 

 

 

P.S. Filling at the gas station was a blast! You don't have to hold the nozzle to keep the fuel flow from cutting off, and it doesn't fall out. $45 fix, not bad.

[Noflers]

Where it started.

 

What I'm working with now. 

 

 

 

Grunge Trunk.

 

 

Glam Trunk.

 

Not a whole lot left to do on the interior. I do have some broke down sun visors on the way that I plan on reupholstering with leftover headliner material. I also need to spend a day making new, or recovering my doors panels. Half the car has blue panels and other other half has black panels, also the rear seat is blue and will have to be reupholstered in the future. Still thinking about a solution to my crap custom radio delete panel, hahaha. The carpet is a little on the shit side as well, might have to put new carpet in later. 

I'm getting anxious about the exterior aesthetics lately, I really need a new door before I paint and I'm still figuring out where I'm going to do it... 

[Noflers]

Just some little things here and there. 

 

Got the wiper arm nut finally. Both wipers are on there and ready to go:

 

Also got the base for this mirror so I could mount it. I gave a it a couple coats of plastic spray paint, it looks quite good in person:

 

And the battery is now secured properly!

[Noflers]

Sooo, it's been, wow, almost a month since I updated.
Don't worry, I've been doing things ;)

 

Finally got sick of the wiring nonsense that makes me angry wayyy too often...

The under dash harness was the worst, so I started there, but after a while my carpet was out to repair the lines under it, and new carpet was ordered. I'll work more on the engine harness later (engine bay will be totally stripped soon anyway... 

 

"New" on the left, old on the right:

 

Some more of the mess:

 

Somewhere along the way I opened/closed the heater valve and it started leaking. (also why I removed the carpet)

The entire assembly had to come out. New hoses installed, box completely disassembled and rebuilt with new foam to seal it, and a bit of spray paint to make it look pretty. 

 

Here's the valve, looking/working MUCH better:

 

Rebuilt box:

 

 

 

I pulled these seats at the JY a while back. This has to be the widest seat you can fit in the 510 without things (shifter/doors) running into them.

 

 

Fit is pretty good, but will require holes to be drilled. 1990 Camry :) Driver side has height/tilt adjustability on the seat bottom and the back has tilt, as well as adjustable lumbar. Passenger gets the standard tilt/slide functions. Everything is controlled by big knobs. Not my favorite, oh well... Right after I pulled these I found an electric set, but figured I shouldn't complicate things with more wiring. 

 

 

 

One of my most anticipated purchases should be here in the next month or so.. JDM 1800 SSS sedan door panels:

 

 

 

 

 

I also had my sun visors reupholsted with left over headliner vinyl. Now I want to have the hardware chromed to match the rest of the interior...

 

 

Another update coming right after this one :)

 

[Noflers]

Sooo, I bought a '78 620 on Saturday... It came with a KA24DE long block, a 5-speed Hardbody trans, an L20B with a 5-speed auto trans, slotted mag wheels, stock wheels with the moon caps, a set of some generic white wheels, new brakes, and a bunch of little extras. Told my buddy I would sell him the truck, running, for what I paid, and the KA goes in the 510. I think it's a fair deal, seeing how he'll probably do most of the work on the truck anyway. I get my KA free, and he gets a good, clean, running 620 at a bargain price.

 

The KA is already in the garage ready for work! Oh, and get yourself a motor lift so you don't have to have your friend help you carry motors down a long driveway!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 510 and 620 together:

 

 

 

I have an an L20 block and auto trans for sale as seen here, I'll also put a classified ad up:

 

 

 

 

[Draker]

I saw that on CL for a while. Were you able to get him down lower on the price? It was priced good already.. but cheaper is always better!

[the510keeper]

The gas filler neck idea I'm trying on the next build. Look good. I hate getting has n my Datsun

[Noflers]

LOTS going on here...

 

Can't remember if I mentioned it or not, but here it is again. I bought the 620 a while back, it came with a KADE and everything needed to build a KA 620 including a 71B trans with a Z bellhousing. I had different plans. KA is going in the 510 and the L18 from the 510 is going (did go) into the 620. Phase one is complete.

 

 

 

Limited look at the bottom end. 

 

Everything is looking much cleaner...

 

Refreshed 71B 5-speed

 

After I pulled the engine I started stripping the bay, wiring is fucked. Replacement harness needed...

 

This wont be needed

 

This photo contains like half the things I love in this life, the other half would be my lady, but she's right around the corner in the photo :)

 

And a bonus photo, I do it for the...

 

 

[Draker]

Looks like you got a lot goin on. You gonna drive the 620 while you swap the dime? Or just sell it as a runner?

[Noflers]

It's going to the the guy welding in the last photo for what I paid for it. He gets a cheap yet solid truck, I get a free KA :)

[Noflers]

I've been doing a lot of straightening of things lately, hood hinges, hood support, bumper, valence, etc... The 510's face. I even stripped the grille and polished all the trim. 

 

My only complaint, I've got the worst eyebrow trim.

 

That emblem was a repaint by me, here is the old (when I had only painted the blue and red):

 

Crossmember is all welded up except for the bottom seam on the passenger side, car is holding itself up now at least. As soon as all this rain goes away I'll get the welder back out and finish it up.

[Noflers]

Updates coming, just need to organize it all and post it up.

[Noflers]

Updates coming, just need to organize it all and post it up.

[Noflers]

First, I got the crossmember welded. I originally cut and welded it in the car, but somewhere along the way I started to doubt my welds. Since it was already tacked together it was pretty easy for a local welder to finish the job. The guy actually said that what I considered to be the hardest parts were done the best (the vertical welds, since it was on the car when I did it).  He did an excellent job. 

 

 

When the time came to put the front suspension back together I pressed in new LCA bushings

 

After that I went ahead and bolted the cross member in

 

Then came the sway bar

 

I got this far before I decided the load leveler alone wasn't going to cut it

 

And finally, the motor. my roommate came out and lent a hand when he heard me outside cursing

 

Real tight fit

 

 

 

 

[Noflers]

I got a the fuel pump and rubber lines mounted and installed. Walbro GSL392.

 

I was able to use both S13 rad hoses with a bit of trimming.

 

 

While I had my fender off I wanted to know why it was so "off". Here's why

 

I bent up some new fuel hardlines, but I only have a photo of one installed