Header Gasket L1600

[Grimlid]

Greetings,

 Found a Header recently while looking for my replacement tranny. A local guy sold me the tranny but refused to sell separate from the 69 L16 attached. Included the alternator, water pump, starter, looks like an old edelbrock  carb, plus a nice old header . The guys Dad started bitching him out for leaving everything attached after I had it in my van.

 Looking for a source for the gasket to the headers as well as all the tranny gaskets.

 Just wondering if anyone knows a source for these in the Vancouver or Seattle area?

 Im going to try the Zshop in Surrey on Monday and I see Bills Datsun shoppe seems to have some stuff also. 

 Wondering if any locals have a sure source or if I have to order online.

Thanks for any help.

[datzenmike]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43769-bills-datsun-shoppe/

 

What's wrong with an L series intake/exhaust manifold gasket, covers the same holes???

 

[wayno]

If you have a stock L16 exhaust manifold, stick with that, forget the header, the stock exhaust manifold is a header, and it will last forever unlike the header which will last 3 to 5 years where you live unless it is one of them early thick ones, that one might last 10 years, maybe.

The only drawback to the stock exhaust manifold is where it goes from 2 into 1, it needs to have a larger outlet for the L20b in my opinion, but I am sure that can be fixed by a competent exhaust guy.

I can get the intake/exhaust manifold gasket from any auto parts store, but remember to ask for an "intake/exhaust" manifold gasket, don't ask for an "exhaust gasket", it seems to confuse one of the stores around here.

Maybe Sports Imports(Ross) has L block parts, he mostly sells Roadster stuff, but he likely can tell you where to go if he doesn't have it.

 

Sports Imports
Box 1794, Blaine, WA 98231-1794

Phone: 604.538.5615
Fax: 604.535.3538

info@sportsimports.ca

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Mklotz70 may still have some of those' two pipe' exhaust flanges he had cut by water jet. Perfect fit to the L16 cast iron header. This is what I did on my L20B. 

 

 

 

I have the '75-'77 L20B with the co-joined intake and exhaust. Not a fan of these as the intake does not have the coolant flow from the head through the runners to warm when it's cold and to cool when it's hot. The later '78-'80 did have this and the engines just run better with a more consistent intake runner air temperature. The co-joined manifolds use exhaust heat to warm the intake but in the summer they get baked by radiant heat. On top of this the L20B exhausts are a simple 4 into 1 pipe jamming the exhaust into a single 2"? down pipe. I like the L16/18 cast iron header which is 4 into 2, keeping adjacent cylinders separated and for almost two feet. In fact the two pipes only join on the down pipe into one and back under the vehicle to the resonator.
 
So I found a two into one down pipe at the scrap yard, no idea what it's off but the flange does not mate to the L16 manifold. It's close but larger. It isn't off a Z24 or a D21? But I held it under the car and it's sort of close.
 
So I cut the flange off and I have one of Mike Klotz's flanges from 5-6 years ago that he gave me. The new down pipe has slightly larger twin down pipes but I wrestled it on into place.
 
Need to get the head on and the L16 exhaust temp. bolted on and test fit. If all goes well I can tack the flange to the two pipes then weld permanently. This will give me the two into one down pipe and bend under the car.
 
 
 
Took my L16 exhaust out and heated and removed the very rusty eroded studs out and replaced them. Cleaned the threads with a tap.
 

 
 
Dremeled the flange to fit the larger twin pipes. Used gear clamp to pull them together for the fit. The protruding ends fit nicely up into the manifold to help the gasket seal.
 

 
 
Roughly how it will fit together. Studs are slightly long but...
 

 
 
The stock L16 twin into one down pipe joins just below the flange. This one stays separate right down to just after the bend under the car. Cylinder 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 travel 18" through the manifold and another 14" through the down pipe before joining. Sort of a long tube header. The head is another 3.5 to 4" so a total of 35.5".
 
Anyone recognize this exhaust down pipe? It visually looks like one from an S13 with KA24E even down to the flange at the back for the cat and those twin tabs in the picture below... ahhh just found out the tabs are for bolting a heat shield to them. The floor may get hot???
 

[racerx]

Save ur money. Leave it alone. When u change to header then u have to get it re-pipe also. And the hp gain is minimal, they tend to get loose as time goes on, specially the shorty ones.

[Draker]

say no to the header.

[Grimlid]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43769-bills-datsun-shoppe/

 

What's wrong with an L series intake/exhaust manifold gasket, covers the same holes???

 

I assumed as much but where to source them?

[DanielC]

Your friendly neighborhood Nissan dealer.

[Grimlid]

Well the learning curve continues to slope.

I must say that looking at the stock exh. manifold I thought it seemed to have cleaner looking flow than Ive really seen on other vehicles. I really assumed the header would be better but I guess I will rethink the whole thing....

[Grimlid]

Your friendly neighborhood Nissan dealer.

No shit, glad I asked. I was gonna call Monday but really figured they were out of production.

Thanks

[datzenmike]

 

Stock

1/ already there

2/ never wears out

3/ fits perfectly

4/ quieter

5/ never or almost never leaks, rarely at the pipe flange

6/ cooler under hood temperatures

7/ zero maintenance

8/ works very well

9/ heavy

 

Header

1/ expensive  to buy, does not 'drop in' takes hours often much longer to install.

2/ will not last forever. ceramic coated are best but more 1/ above

3/ almost always a struggle to fit properly and includes interference with steering. Have to cut your good down pipe

4/ much louder

5/ gaskets can leak because head flanges are too thin, poorly made/designed.

6/ usually more heat radiated into engine bay and floor

7/ it WILL get rusty and it WILL eventually rust out, collector bolts come loose.

8/ disappointing results unless you equate more noise as meaning more power. Stock manifolds are more than good enough for the stock and mildly warmed over engine. To get significant results from a header it has to offer an improvement in flow that the stock manifold can't provide. An engine with a much larger cam, larger valves, ported head and higher compression and certainly one with a larger displacement would benefit. A header does not significantly improve engine performance below 5K where most driving is done.

9/ headers are lighter but that's about all they are good for besides looks..

[racerx]

Always remember there are no stupid questions, only stupid mistakes. Theres guys in this forum thats been there and done that and they dont want you to spend more money than necessary.

[Doctor510]

FEL-PRO 25560 

[banzai510(hainz)]

if you can get the SSS gasket from Nissan there the best

The Felpro's di wear out. I have them blow out in the center lower. Most likelty the bolts get loose. But the Felpro has already 1.5 inch ports. Others are the 1.25 I believe

 

 

Byron 510 on the 510realm is in Vancouver area and is really good

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I've always had good luck asking for a '73 610 gasket. They have large ports and a divided center exhaust port.

 

I don't like the compressed paper gasket that Nissan Motorsports sells. They get brittle and break.

[G-Duax]

Anyone used the REMFLEX gaskets?

 

http://catalog.remflex.com/NISSAN_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/15-001.htm

[Grimlid]

 

Stock

1/ already there

2/ never wears out

3/ fits perfectly

4/ quieter

5/ never or almost never leaks, rarely at the pipe flange

6/ cooler under hood temperatures

7/ zero maintenance

8/ works very well

9/ heavy

 

Header

1/ expensive  to buy, does not 'drop in' takes hours often much longer to install.

2/ will not last forever. ceramic coated are best but more 1/ above

3/ almost always a struggle to fit properly and includes interference with steering. Have to cut your good down pipe

4/ much louder

5/ gaskets can leak because head flanges are too thin, poorly made/designed.

6/ usually more heat radiated into engine bay and floor

7/ it WILL get rusty and it WILL eventually rust out, collector bolts come loose.

8/ disappointing results unless you equate more noise as meaning more power. Stock manifolds are more than good enough for the stock and mildly warmed over engine. To get significant results from a header it has to offer an improvement in flow that the stock manifold can't provide. An engine with a much larger cam, larger valves, ported head and higher compression and certainly one with a larger displacement would benefit. A header does not significantly improve engine performance below 5K where most driving is done.

9/ headers are lighter but that's about all they are good for besides looks..

 

Your argument is certainly compelling. I think I will heed your advice, Thanks