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got em. coilovers.


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well i picked up the coilovers. its a zx shock in a shortened 510 strut. with qa1 200lb spring rate coils. i got dp racing camber plates. this is the tricky part. i wanted to run this by all of you before i did anything.

noname-1.jpg

camber.jpg

 

strutcut.jpg

as you can see the camber plates are not going to line up or use the stock holes. so what has to be done...i gotta cut

strutout.jpg

keep in mind my drawing sucks but you get it. but basicly im going to follow that ridge where the metal overlaps and still keep the stock holes. then when i get to the fender side of the cut im going to go very shallow and just cut the lip out. drill holes and hopefully i didnt fuck up. haha. send your feedback. the more the better

strutcutout.jpg

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Here is what I would do. I don't see the need for a bigger whole all the way around the strut top. The only added room you need is on the firewall side. So I would cut minimal in the needed area. My drawing also sucks but you get the idea.

 

strutcut.jpg

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thank you.

i understand that welding a plate is the strongest and best looking way to do it. however i do not own a welder and its stuck in my driveway at this point. i will do the custom plate and clean it up later down the road. im going to try out icehouse idea. im going to see exactly how much room i need. mark for the holes. trim the area to make room and drop in these bad ass coils. i want to see this baby on the ground.

 

i also have to remove the rear springs. after i finish the front i was going to jack up the rear and tackle that. i dont know the exact procedure. i have the 510 book but that doesnt say much. its directions are for dropping the whole rear member. so it says to clamp brake lines and disconnect, drop diff to the ground (dont know about this one), move jack under control arm, unbolt lower shock mount and the control arm will lower. class always had a fear factor about springs. so im kind of nervous about doing that. any feedback on that would be great.

 

thank you for all the help so far. i will post pics.

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The rear will be easier if you remove the axle and the shock, it you will get more drop. Be careful of the break line, it will get stretched to death if your not paying attention.

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front done. sorry for the delay. i have been very busy lately. anyways. im waiting for the pics to be delivered to my email. will post pics soon. thanks for all the help. im probably going to tackle the rear tomorrow. also some rewiring. she died at a stoplight again. but let me tell you this thing looks sweet on the ground. i didnt think it was going to sit that low. anyway i will post pics soon. thanks again

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Ramseys21, Those are the same camber plates I installed a few months back. They are the ones Troy Ermish sells with his kit. I read that you had already installed them but I was going post how I installed mine anyway. Because I thought it was very easy to do and have been very happy with them. I also like that the added caster is built into them.

Well anyway what I did is I went down to home depo and bought 4 C clamps that were small enough to fit 2 of them through the stock strut tower holes. Then I took the plates and with the clamps I clamped them on top of the strut towers with 2 clamps each. The most important part, measure it 10 times every way, then when you think you have them perfect go smoke a cigarette and come back and measure it 10 times again. Now that you that you have them right where you want them. It is time to get a drill bit that is the right size for your bolts. I forget what size they are off the top of my head. Then I drilled through the holes on the plates. Here you have to make sure you are drilling straight through because there is a gap between the plate and strut tower top about a 1/4inch or so (Because they are on top and top is not flat there is that lip around the strut tower hole) and the holes will not line up when you mount the plates under. So after I drilled the holes I mounted the plates under stuck all the bolts through and tightened them all down. Now I marked where I needed to cut the towers. Then removed the plates and started cutting. I heard that a pasma cutter is the way to go but don't have one so I used my die grinder with a cutting wheel, I do have an air compressor so that is how I cut mine. It took like 10 min. a side I kept checking with the plates to make sure. After that I just put it all together and dropped it on the ground. And now it is time for the alignment rack. Hope this helps anyone scraching their heads. This is how I did mine I'll try and get some pics up of the them done. I didn't take any pics while I was doing them, I wish I did. Ollie,

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  • 2 weeks later...

im having a little trouble with the bolts that connect the half shaft, telescoping shaft or whatever you call it. to the hub. it appears that the bond between the nut and the bolt are stronger than the metal. haha anyway to make a long story short. im starting to strip the bolt heads. i was thinking about cutting them out but i only have a dremel to work with. i have one side done already but the drivers side is being a bitch. im going to buy all new nuts/bolts anyway

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wait let me guess your wrench wont get on the head good enough correct? (this is the rear end right?) well if my assumptions are right then your at the place where i hate, make yourself a "510" wrench, shave the head of a cheapo box end wrench 13 or 14mm i forget what size, and then the best penetrating oil you got and wait couple hours. then get that 510 wrench, make sure it seats flush and grab another wrench and piggy back it onto that for leverage, pull but dont be jerky.. i learned the hard way..

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14. ill revoke my last "dumb ass" post. i just needed to show those stupid bolts whos boss. haha. well i got it back on the ground and i used the old bolts to hold the half shaft on for now (no cutting was needed by the way). i still have to put the radiator back in and i still have to cut into the harness a little. so it probably wont move until this next weekend. so thanks for the help. i promise i will post pics soon.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i think i broke the hex screw in the collar for the adjustable ride height. it might just be spring tension. so im going to remove the sway bar nut and try again. i finally get the time to button all this up and she runs great but i cant get it out of my driveway. the tires rub. haha well live and learn i guess.

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i figured that the sway bar was holding the strut in a somewhat compression. which it wasnt but i fixed it. the problem was that i would loosen the hex nut and the collar would still be tight. turns out the strut didnt drop far enough. just took it for a test drive. ran great. need to secure all the electrical connections so they are not just stuck in the fuse box. installed a electric water temp gauge. works great. this suspension is really stiff. i love it. thanks again to all the help. i think im going to buy a lz22 and a 5spd next. any sugestions? i would like to keep it old school. haha.

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