Tikka Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 So I ordered a master cylinder assembly from A1 Cardone # 111538 which came without the reservoirs. Can anyone direct me to the appropriate reservoirs? I've seen press fit and clamp on's but don't know about the spacing of the ports or the inner and outer dimensions. Cardone sells reservoirs theat "look" like they should fit but without knowing the spacing and dimensions I don't want to order. 1 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 give it a try. its only press fit and a clamp 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 All FSMs say never re-use old ones but.... I just warmed them in hot water to 'soften' them, dry quickly and install. Works just fine and never a leak. I think they are all the same diameter hole, but different reservoir shapes and capacities. 2 Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Yeah, I just spoke with a "tech." at Cardone who couldn't be of less help. Told me I'd have to buy one and fool with it. Some technical advice. The Replacement from Cardone has two reservoirs and is twice the length of the one I took off which only had one one reservoir. I guess the previous owner changed it out when he went to the side drafts carbs because the air filters of the carbs may be in the way. I'm going to check for fit when I get home from work. This may verywell take some "engineering". 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 I would have got one with the res. as I bought one of them and used the old ones and it always leaked and ruined the paint. If you can find a jap made unit is best if they even avail. Most are Taiwan. and there were 2 models on the 510 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Buy Centric next time 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 I would find a way to run dual master for safety reasons. Can't you just trim the air horn on the rear carb? On a single master if you get ANY leak you instantly have zero brakes. 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Theres a reason why they started making dual reservoir. Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 [/url]">http://http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/tikka16/media/20160906_185755_zpsl6dfqy6i.jpg.html'> You can see the issue with the air filter. Also, there is another brake cylinder with resevoir next to the main which is connected to an adjustable valve under the dash which appears to control the breaking power to the rear breaks. At this point I'm considering bypassing that unit but keeping the knob for the "cool factor". Quote Link to comment
russaroll Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 I have some new res. I'm not going to use. They could be yours :) Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 As inexpensive as they are I don't think it would be worth our trouble. I do appreciate it though. I think a set of trumpets would allow enough room for the duel master cylinder. Again, I'll have to see when I get under the hood again. Quote Link to comment
dgi Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 I've had a L20B with Webers. It also had a brake booster and dual reservoir brake master. I had the same air filters, but had to "dimple" the back air filter a bit to make it fit. So, it can be done. Are you sure the adjustable valve isn't in the brake line coming off the single reservoir brake master? The only other reservoir I see in your picture is on the Clutch Master. dgi 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 [/url]">http:// You can see the issue with the air filter. Also, there is another brake cylinder with resevoir next to the main which is connected to an adjustable valve under the dash which appears to control the breaking power to the rear breaks. At this point I'm considering bypassing that unit but keeping the knob for the "cool factor". I think this had a brake booster at one time that's been removed. That isn't the stock master either. Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 That's the "brake" I was hoping for. I didn't want to have to change the filters. I like the looks of the screens. I figured the current master wasn't stock once I started shopping for a replacement and saw nothing but duel reservoirs. I'm gonna have to take another hard look at the lines to get my head wrapped around it. Innitially it looked like the two reservoirs were linked. I'll know more after this weekend when I get to spend some quality time under the hood. I'll post additional pics for clarification. Thanks for all the input! DGI, What happened to your blue 510??? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 depends on the runner length on the manifolds. The orange car has the Nissanmotorsport manifold and it very long. I run no filters and cut the rear airhorn.( Its a 510 who cares) Youll kill the motor/car from no oil/money before worrying about dirty air. The Mikunis ones are short manifolds and can fit aircleaners pretty EZ 1 Quote Link to comment
dgi Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 DGI, What happened to your blue 510??? Still have it and driving it. The pictures I posted showed it just as I purchased it. They were just too much for the L20B in my opinion. The engine did not run properly under 3000 RPM. I installed an original SUs setup purchased from an Australian SSS 510 which consisted of a 220 manifold and 38mm SUs and the stock air cleaner box. Unfortunately, the air cleaner box would not clear the brake booster. So this how it now looks. A little timing adjustment and tuning and I am perfectly happy with how it runs now. The brake booster is still there but not in use (vacuum disconnected). I found the brakes much to sensitive with it active. If I ever get around to it, I will probably remove the booster and just have the stock dual reservoir master. I have all the necessary parts, just too lazy to do it on a running/driving car. Probably could run the stock air cleaner box that way which is my only incentive. dgi Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 DGI, Glad you still have it. Can't wait to get mine on the road. I may do a gravity feed to the carbs this weekend just so I can fire it up for shits and giggles. Thanks for your help, Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Not that it's going to help much but here is a pic where you can see the blue knob I'm refering to. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 If a single master then maybe this is to adjust the front/rear bias? Trouble with those is that if they are withing reach you are always fiddling with them when there really is no need. Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Well, I got some good information to consider while working on it this weekend. Thanks again for all the information. I'll be sure to let you all know what comes of it. Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Here is a pic of the other cylinder that was hooked up to the brake line. I'm beginning to think that the previous owner hooked this up as a back up to the single-reservoir master cylinder because he could not fit the original duel-reservoir unit due to the side drafts and air filter issue I'm experiencing now. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 It's not a part of the master, looks like maybe it works with that knob on the dash Scary when people 're engineer' a braking system on their own. Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Yeah right? I think it's time to blow it up and start from scratch. Quote Link to comment
Stitebunny Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Man this car is really great! So lucky to have come across it the way you did. With all the other stuff on this car it was probably some type of hot rod brake setup for the time period. There has to be some one that knows about it. Until then, maybe a stock master and brake setup. Could you make your own air box to clear the master and leave the carbs and intake alone. 1 Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 I basically decided to pull out the whole system and return the brake system to the original format. Just need to go get brake line fittings and master cylinder reservoirs. I thought about an air box but I'm not equiped for that. I'd have to find someone to do the fab work. Besides using an air box will create too much temptation to go turbo and I can do without the expense of what's required there. Quote Link to comment
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