510 mod suggestions

[Grimlid]

Hey All,

 Just purchased a 72 4 door 510 and cruised around most of the summer with the stock 1600 and a 32/36 weber, a set of 15x7 Z rims but otherwise bone stock with a near mint body and about 30k original miles. The car is a blast and I am deeply hooked to the 510 experience.

 I burnt the tranny shifting a little hard on my way to the North Vancouver All Japanese Car show last month and need a new one. After the show I made my decision final that I was going to mod up the car despite my wife's wishes that I keep it stock and buy one that is more beat up to customize.

 I dropped a bunch of cash at Technotoy, California Datsun and Silvermine and ordered up all new suspension :Z front suspension and new arms, rear 510 Technotoy  coilovers, Big front brakes and rear disc conversion as well as bunch of other components to improve handling and stopping power.

 I had hoped to get the local experts at Specialty Engineering here in Vancouver BC to install a KA24 but it seems that will take a long time, assuming I can ever contact anyone there (so far no luck but maybe they are on vacation>>>)

 After talking to some veterans and not having much luck finding a 5 spd tranny, it was suggested that I drop in an L20B and 4spd I found locally since I need a new trans anyway.

 Im interested in what the community thinks about the idea of a short term engine swap while waiting for the big one to get installed. Is it worth it or should I just see what I can tune out of the 1600 while I wait?

 Any other feedback would be gladly received.......

Thanks

 

Here are a couple pics her. I had to take off the Konig Rewinds that it came with, as the +20 offset was rubbing in the rear on potholes. It doesnt look as sweet with the swastika mags but they are still cool. I will likely get another set of Rewinds with 0 offset as I really like that look.

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

 I dropped a bunch of cash at Technotoy, California Datsun and Silvermine and ordered up all new suspension :Z front suspension and new arms, rear 510 Technotoy  coilovers, Big front brakes and rear disc conversion as well as bunch of other components to improve handling and stopping power.

 I had hoped to get the local experts at Specialty Engineering here in Vancouver BC to install a KA24

 

 I had to take off the Konig Rewinds that it came with, as the +20 offset was rubbing in the rear on potholes. It doesnt look as sweet with the swastika mags but they are still cool. I will likely get another set of Rewinds with 0 offset as I really like that look.

 

 

 

..

 

Sounds like you have lots of money, and don't do your own work, so go for the L20B. Even if you do do your own work you need a transmission anyway. There were two L20B 4 speeds. One looks like your 'burnt' 510 transmission the other is a much stronger truck/Z car 71B four speed. The truck 71B will be 31.5"long.The other (from a car) is 26" (well unless from a 610)

 

Easier

If from a car (710, A10) it's just about as drop in as there is. Engine and transmission, or just swap the transmission.

 

Stronger

If from a truck, the drive shaft needs shortening and the mount modified to fit. No way around drive shaft shortening weather you change the engine or not..

 

 

You can break a transmission from abuse but to really 'burn one out' it has to be low on oil.

 

The L20B is about 2cm/20mm taller than the L16, has about 20 more HP but that's only at max revs. It will still make more than the L16 at any RPM and best of all has way more low speed torque from increased displacement. Torque is what kicks you in the ass when you step on it. Fuel, ignition and cooling system all line up. If a '78-'80 engine you can swap your exhaust manifold on too but the '75-'77 won't work for this. Truck and A10 L20Bs used a cable throttle, 710s were linkage like the 510.

[flatcat19]

Spend more ey on what you were going to pay someone else on tools and do your own swap. KA, SR, or L20B-whatever. Do work.

 

Put out feelers in the Seattle area for an L series 5 speed if that's the route you will take.

 

You can do an L swap in a weekend by yourself.

[Grimlid]

Yes burnt meant broken. Roached was the word that came to mind when 3rd gear stopped engaging properly.

 

I do have more money than time.Im working about 250 hours a month out of town and in town , so no time for wrenches when Im home for the near future. I've had the guys at big time motors helping me out . Im basically stockpiling parts while I have this good job. Planning on cutting back my work schedule by Christmas. I can start doing more of my own work then. Im hoping to find a second 510 also that I can work on personally while I drive the other.

 

the L20b I found is out of a truck so I guess the driveshaft will be needed if I go that route.

 

I could just throw in a 4spd there are a few around on CL. At least then I can enjoy what decent weather is left.

What I really want to do is get back on the road asap and enjoy my free time driving. Realistically I guess maintenance and repairs as well as upgrades are a big part of the 510. 

 

Thanks for the tips on the l20 

I read on Wikipedia that an l20b with a 50mm solex doubles power output . Of course the solex cost 2k USD so its not so cost effective really to get the extra power.

 

Are you aware of any shops in the lower mainland area that do drive shaft alterations? Im hoping to put in a Subaru lsd also so I may as well get the shaft fit for that when I do the work .

[Grimlid]

Spend more ey on what you were going to pay someone else on tools and do your own swap. KA, SR, or L20B-whatever. Do work.

 

Put out feelers in the Seattle area for an L series 5 speed if that's the route you will take.

 

You can do an L swap in a weekend by yourself.

Im kinda leaning that way actually. My buddy says he used to be able to swap one in an afternoon as he used to wreck them regularly back in the 80's. Hoping he can lend a hand.

the Seattle area is good for inventory. Im phoning a guy with a ton of stuff tomorrow to see what he has in stock. looks like he has a whole warehouse full of Datsun stuff in his CL ad.

[datzenmike]

I read on Wikipedia that an l20b with a 50mm solex doubles power output . Of course the solex cost 2k USD so its not so cost effective really to get the extra power.

 

Are you aware of any shops in the lower mainland area that do drive shaft alterations? Im hoping to put in a Subaru lsd also so I may as well get the shaft fit for that when I do the work .

 

No induction system will double the hp.  You might get 5-10 hp but I doubt it. The side draft will sound like double the output.

 

Any place the specializes in drive shaft repairs will do. Don't go to a garage they will just send it out and charge you an extra 15%. I had a driveshaft starting to fail, on my truck in Ontario (slip shaft) Went to a heavy equipment and truck shop that only did driveshafts. The guy sent me to the wrecking yards with a shopping list for some GM unit. Found it on a Van and he transplanted and shortened it, re drilled the bolt holes welded it up and balanced it on a Saturday morning for $150 cash (beer money) Had a special computer controlled mig welder and lath to turn it. Now it takes a more common/cheaper/better Spicer U joint for Chevs. Yours will only need 5.5" removed to shorten it. The point is they know what they are doing and have the special equipment.

 

The Subi H-165 is identical to, and is made by the same maker of the 510 differential. Fuji Heavy Industries. They are the same length. Axle stubs may be different.

[Draker]

beautiful car.

[Grimlid]

beautiful car.

Thanks. My first Datsun.

[Grimlid]

No induction system will double the hp.  You might get 5-10 hp but I doubt it. The side draft will sound like double the output.

 

Any place the specializes in drive shaft repairs will do. Don't go to a garage they will just send it out and charge you an extra 15%. I had a driveshaft starting to fail, on my truck in Ontario (slip shaft) Went to a heavy equipment and truck shop that only did driveshafts. The guy sent me to the wrecking yards with a shopping list for some GM unit. Found it on a Van and he transplanted and shortened it, re drilled the bolt holes welded it up and balanced it on a Saturday morning for $150 cash (beer money) Had a special computer controlled mig welder and lath to turn it. Now it takes a more common/cheaper/better Spicer U joint for Chevs. Yours will only need 5.5" removed to shorten it. The point is they know what they are doing and have the special equipment.

 

The Subi H-165 is identical to, and is made by the same maker of the 510 differential. Fuji Heavy Industries. They are the same length. Axle stubs may be different.

I read about the Subaru 180 and 200 and the CV axels or stub adapters. I will look into the H-165 also, thanks for  the info on that and the shaft also....

[banzai510(hainz)]

those wheels or tires are too big or a bad offset. You wont be able to lower it down more

 

 

Nice car

 

 

I think would look cooler with stock tires and the earley hubcaps slammed down. Plus it dont cost much.plus rides better

[datzenmike]

The H-160 LSD is plenty strong for an L20B/KA 510, and fits . The R-180 is just heavier, the R-200does not 'fit' and makes little sense it's so heavy.

[G-Duax]

I've done several Subi R160 installs, and all it takes to make the Datsun output flanges/stub axles fit is to plug the holes in the Datsun shafts, and cut snap ring groves in their splines.

 

Personally, I stick with the AP Racing Suretrac, that was an option in the Subaru GC8, and others.

No clutch plates to burn up :-)

 

 

I have a complete unit in transit from Japan with a 4.4 gear set, and a bare one without gears.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I read on Wikipedia that an l20b with a 50mm solex doubles power output . Of course the solex cost 2k USD so its not so cost effective really to get the extra power.

Dual 50's are the last piece in the puzzle to make that kind of power, but then they bolt to a $2000 cylinder head on top of a $4000 rotating assembly. And the $2000 for the carbs is just the carbs. You'll need a $800 intake and about another $3000 of stuff to get it running. After all that, it won't be a reliable street motor. Building a long rod 2200 or 2300 is the only way to get reliable power out of an L motor.

 

There are better ways to get 200hp. How about an engine swap?

[racerx]

Why spend more money while u are waiting? If u are going to go w a ka, then go for it. Why build up the L16 or L20 and spend thousands when u can just do the KA swap. Then because u could not wait you will spend 2x as much. Be patient.

[banzai510(hainz)]

buy a car that is done already. KA/SR swapped

[datzenmike]

True but then you would need to know what to look for as far as shoddy work. (short cuts... specially safety related and just plain red neck welding and engineering)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

True but then you would need to know what to look for as far as shoddy work. (short cuts... specially safety related and just plain red neck welding and engineering)

Maybe it's because this is my line of work, but it really amazes me how people are more than willing to hack their own car together. The tools available these days to the average guy leaves no excuse for hacking.

[banzai510(hainz)]

this is a nice car I hope it don't get hacked up.

 

got the wrong offset wheels already

 

 

Buy a beater to learn on.   We seen other guys on here relying on someone else and it don't work.

[KoHeartsGPA]

It is purdy!, what's the color code? I like that green...

[Grimlid]

Thanks for the words of wisdom. esp Datzenmike and G-duax. 

I picked up a used trans last night and going to install over the weekend.

Ordering correct offset rims while I wait for suspension parts to arrive.

Not too sure on color code of the green I have it with a bunch of stock parts that came with the car. 

I have no plans on cutting up the car at this point. I am looking for another to experiment with that is not as cherry as the one I currently own. 

[scooter]

nice car.

 

another one to throw in the mix for ya is a d21  71c 5 speed with an L bellhousing on it, it will go into your stock shifter hole, its about an inch and a half longer than your stock tranny, but youll have to make a new tranny mount and maybe slightly divot a spot in your floor to put the speedo cable on.

 

Good gear ratios, and very strong and no floppy shifter.

 

my votes for an l20b or an lz variant.  old school power for the win.

 

you'll be happy with the t3 parts, theyre nice, and your car will handle like a go-kart

[scooter]

oh, and pats driveline down in Surrey can build you a shaft.

[edekalil]

Very nice 4 door there.