jboulukos Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 My anti-dieseling solenoid wire gets twisted (see pic below of twisted white wire) upon removal of solenoid connection to carb. There is currently no connector to separate the solenoid wire. My question is simple. Can I solder in a spade connector to the anti-dieseling solenoid wire in order to avoid twisting it upon removal? I just want to avoid weakening/breaking the wire where it connects to the solenoid. Twisted anti-dieseling solenoid wire, continues as black sleeved wire and blends directly into other wires. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Are you sure there isn't a straight bullet connector there? 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted September 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Are you sure there isn't a straight bullet connector there? I'm sure. Originally should be a bullet connector, right? Can I put a new bullet connector on it? 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 I'm sure. Originally should be a bullet connector, right? Can I put a new bullet connector on it? I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally there is nothing "hard wired" like that. Is it soldered on now? Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted September 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally there is nothing "hard wired" like that. Is it soldered on now? I will examine it and send more detailed images for you. I believe it was soldered on but maybe just twisted and electrical taped...which it why the wire gets twisted because its fixed and the twisting off of the solenoid really puts stress on the wire, especially right as the wire enters/attaches into the solenoid. I don't want the wire to sever at an inconvenient time so I'm just trying to repair it now and be proactive. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 You can put whatever kind of connector you want- bullet, blade, wherever, as long as it's insulated. Just crimp them on. If the wire is currently a little short you can add a small length in to relieve the stress. Someone probably cut the original wire connectors off years ago, maybe in a carb swap to a carb without the AD solenoid. Originally it would have had a bullet connector. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Any connection will do but make sure it is well insulated as this is a 12 volt supply to the solenoid and will blow the fuse. 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted September 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Here are some pics of the electrical wires leading to the carb and near the carb. Leading to solenoid Also noticed this wire has become detached from it's entry point. What does this connection do? I looked in the service manual and it says that the cylinder thing on the right with the black cap is the Throttle Opener Control Valve. (white wire cut by me to detach solenoid and make connector link) Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted September 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Anti Dieseling Solenoid pics below. I got a small spade connector from NAPA. Bullet connectors were sold in packs of 50. The solenoid wire is becoming frayed at the base where it enters the solenoid. What can I do to strengthen it? My first thought is to solder that area so it is stronger. Any thoughts? Is there a way to replace the entire wire? Solenoid Solenoid wire fraying at base of solenoid Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 I've never cut open an anti-dieseling solenoid, but larger solenoids I've seen the inside of have a coil of fine varnished wire inside. I'd be hesitant to solder very close to the solenoid if there is a chance of burning the insulation off a coil. But for all I know the guts of a anti-dieseling solenoid may be constructed completely differently. I have a sealed transformer with the insulation gone from the wires where they enter the case. Someone who seemed to know about electronic things recommended covering the area with epoxy putty to insulate and stiffen the wires. I don't know if any epoxy putties might be conductors of electricity, but if you decide to try this you might brew a test batch of the putty and make sure it is non-conductive before dabbing it on your solenoid. I've always thought the wire into the solenoid was sealed in place and not replaceable but it could be another of my mistaken assumptions (I'm never short of those!). Len 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Put some heat shrink tubing over it, maybe 2-3 layers and hope for the best. Next time you see another solenoid, get it. 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Alright, I refurbished 2 solenoids. One had 14 gauge wire and one 16 gauge. I added bullet connectors (found at AutoZone, approx 14 count). I used heat shrink tubing over the wire and electrical tape over the wire as it enters the solenoid. Solenoid 2 was lengthened by soldering in additional 16 gauge wire. Below are the before and after pictures. before, solenoid 1 after, solenoid 1 before, solenoid 2 after, solenoid 2 (female end of connector in photo) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Looks good. 1 Quote Link to comment
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