Kennyt Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Hello all. I replaced my power steering pump as well as the high pressure hose on my 83 720. Also i replaced the seals in the gear box due to it leaking also. First pump whining at initial startup. Got O reillys to replace it. Now on the 4th pump and it whines when engine is hot. I replaced fluid (dextron 3) last night and bled system with vacuum pump. Drove to work this am and it still whines after system gets hot. Any ideas? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 To bleed, raise the front wheels, start engine, turn lock to lock and shut off. Check fluid level and top it off if needed. Repeat until all air is removed and fluid level is stable..... This is for initial start up with a freshly installed pump. The brief starting and stopping to to reduce foaming until all the air has been pushed through into the reservoir. Can't see 4 pumps being bad. Have you replaced the drive belt? Is it on too tight or not tight enough? Never ever hold at full turning lock for more that a few seconds. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Have not replaced the belt. I Have tried with 1/2" to 1" deflection and still whines after warmed up. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 It might be glazed from normal wear or slippage. If you can do so carefully (AND I MEAN CAREFULLY) hold a bar of Sunlight soap against the belt faces to dress them. If the wine goes away it's the belt. Hard bar soap will not harm a belt or cause slippage. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Thanks mike. do u think that the gear box could be putting extra strain on the pump? Would adjusting backlash place strain on the pump? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Raise and turn the wheel without the pump on. It should turn smoothly lock to lock without 'tight' spots. Usually all the wear and looseness is concentrated in the straight ahead position. If this is adjusted out the two lock positions become tighter. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Thanks mike. Im going to do that today. Another question tho. When when does the ignition coil fire versus the exhaust coil? Checking the timing and timing light would not light on intake #1. Put on exhaust #1 and got light. Im guessing i had the coils reversed. So i switched and it is now on intake #1. Set timing to 5° btdc. Am i correct to assume i had them reversed? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Despite what others may say BOTH coils fire together. If your exhaust coil fails to fire, replace the first fuse on the far left in your fuse box. Two spark plugs have a shorter burn time so the timing is set much closer to TDC than a single plug. When the exhaust side fuse blows and you run on a single plug the engine timing is now retarded. Replacing the fuse, (or failing that) getting the other plugs firing will bring back an increase in performance and mileage. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 I replaced the fuse. When i pull the coil wire off the coil no spark. Bad coil? Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Also can you confirm which coil is which (location) and what color wire goes to each. From another forum it appears my coils are wired differently from what i read. Thanks for all the help Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Not necessarily the coil. Check that there is power on the coil + side when the key is turned on. If there is power on both coil + terminals, swap all the the wires with the good coil. If still no spark from this coil, it's then presumed to be bad. If the other coil now fails to fire it can be presumed that the distributor module is not working. Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 There is 12v on the positive and negative side of the coul to ground. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 On both coils there is 12v to ground on the + and the - side Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 I swapped the coil wires on the distributor where no fire on intake side. Truck runs "normal". Swapped coil wires back and truck runs the same. It appears both coils are good just not working together Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 You should read 12 volts on both coil + terminals with the key ON. This means that they have power to them. You have to un-wire the coils and swap the wiring. Remember that the distributor module turns a ground off and on to each coil to make them fire. To test that the coils or the module is at fault the wiring has to be swapped. Now if the same coil is not firing it's the coil that is bad.. If the other coil now does not fire and the problem has swapped with the wiring then it's most likely the module in the distributor not working. This is the easiest way to prove one, or the other. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 A noisy pump may just be a symptom of a bad steering box. If you're on your 4th pump now and the problem persists, it's likely that the box has a chewed up seal or some other blockage. Buy a new box, and a new pump, replace or determine that the hoses are still good (no swelling and proper flow) and try again. I'm assuming you know how to bleed a power steering system. It's not just an "add fluid and start driving" process. Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 I do read 12v on the + of both coils only. Forgot to take the leads off the coil first before i measures voltage. Lol. Both coils fire and work just not at the same time. I swapped the power wires to each coil. Both coils are good the and the problem has swapped with the wiring I checked also on my 85 720 and both the intake and exhaust #1 is firing. Verified with a timing light. So I guess the module is bad. Any way to test the module? That would lead to a defective module correct? Know of any place to get a good one at a decent price? Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 The reason i swapped pumps initially is due to it leaking. Also found a leaking pressure hose. I replaced both. At the same time i replced the seals in the steering box dur to it leaking. The pump on it now does not make a sound til the fluid gets hot then it develops a whine. I have bled per the manual: Get fluid hot. Jack up front and turn from lock to lock 10 times. Recheck fluid and add as needed. Then turn from lock to lock again about ten times. Check fluid. Should have air bled out of system by then per the manual Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 My Dodge 2500 with hydro boost does the same thing. When it gets hot, it whines, and since it's close to the firewall (hydro boost), it telegraphs to the inside of the cab. It drives me nuts. I have come up with a way to bleed it once and for all, but it's gonna be messy. Basically, I'm going to extend the filler neck up to a point where it's pasty the highest point in the system and then attach it to a bucket or some other reservoir. Then I'll top it off and run it until it gets hot. That ought to do it. Disassembling the "tool" is going to make quite a mess, which is why I haven't done it yet. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 One last thing.... does your distributor have 4 wires going to it? Three wires bundled together and a forth White color wire with it's own connector? In the picture below... see the connector and the white wire? Well disconnect the connector on the white wire and see if the other coil starts firing then. Let me know. Disconnecting this wire may get it back. If it is this wire it's much cheaper and easier to do that replacing a $368 module from Nissan.... to find it didn't help. That would lead to a defective module correct?Know of any place to get a good one at a decent price? Well as you have power to the coil and the coil will work if swapped to the other side then it's between the coil and the module. Could be the wire is broken going to the distributor.... only thing left after that is the module. Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Yes my distributor is just like that one. I just tried it and same result. No fire on exhaust side. Module it is. Do U recommend one from Nissan? Or would u trust a cheaper one off Ebay? Thanks for all ur help. Maybe u should change ur scrren name to datzenmikeexpert. Lol. Lmk about the module please. Now to change the ps pump one more time. Im gonna flush the lines real good again and see if maybe a restriction or soemthing. I am baffled at this too 1 Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Btw there is a tight spot when i turn the wheel about 7/8 of the way to the right. Could this cause pump issues? Again i just replaced the seals in the gear box nothing else. It was all clean and no debris inside the gearbox. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Try a wrecking yard one. they are small and cheap to ship. Before that unscrew the rotor and lift off and take a look at the module. Just in case the wire fell off. Did you soap the belt yet? Belts squeak. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kennyt Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Im going to try junk yard on Tuesday. Gonna soap the belt tonite. Ill keep u posted. Veridied all connection to module earlier. Even verified connection. Thanks agaib 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Btw there is a tight spot when i turn the wheel about 7/8 of the way to the right. Could this cause pump issues? Again i just replaced the seals in the gear box nothing else. It was all clean and no debris inside the gearbox. I still wouldn't discount the box. Just because you replaced the seals, doesn't mean there isn't some other mechanical problem inside the valve body. 1 Quote Link to comment
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